Again, more crack repairs in heads and blocks fail in our world than not including those done by Brodix.

BPE Heads

Steve Schmidt Racing

I understand it's not everyone's cup of tea, but who throws away 10 grand worth of parts if it can be repaired?

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Well when you start talking about T/F and T/A engines, machined blocks are easier to repair than cast blocks. You don't have to worry about inclusions in the machined blocks and crack migration isn't as big of an issue.

Let me clarify, there were cast blocks long before anyone whittled a engine block out of a block of aluminum. Think KB and Donovan their stuff was repaired for years.

The repairs may not be as pretty as a new piece but it will function as well as new, and thats what I am going for.

As to chasing cracks, I know how to repair those.

Not arguing, a couple of you think it can't or shouldn't be done. I happen to disagree. Fortunately it's my time/money so it's going to happen.

This thread started with me asking who I could get to repair my stuff it has morphed into me being clueless, they can't be repaired and I don't know what I'm doing.

Good thing it's me and not others.

Dave

1. Again s blown up chamber repair is very different from s cracked head repair.

2. I wouldn’t let Steve Schmidt touch my lawn mower

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
Again, more crack repairs in heads and blocks fail in our world than not including those done by Brodix.

What percentage? No matter what it is there will always be some that turn out just fine.

Dave

You’re $ your time to gamble. Me if I ever have a cracked head or block again. I’ll sell it and buy new. sane with a damaged crank. I’ve learned my lesson.

quote:

Originally posted by David Covey:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Well when you start talking about T/F and T/A engines, machined blocks are easier to repair than cast blocks. You don't have to worry about inclusions in the machined blocks and crack migration isn't as big of an issue.

Let me clarify, there were cast blocks long before anyone whittled a engine block out of a block of aluminum. Think KB and Donovan their stuff was repaired for years.

The repairs may not be as pretty as a new piece but it will function as well as new, and thats what I am going for.

As to chasing cracks, I know how to repair those.

Not arguing, a couple of you think it can't or shouldn't be done. I happen to disagree. Fortunately it's my time/money so it's going to happen.

This thread started with me asking who I could get to repair my stuff it has morphed into me being clueless, they can't be repaired and I don't know what I'm doing.

Good thing it's me and not others.

Dave

Dave, don't misunderstand. I'm on your side. I would weld those up in a heartbeat. I was just making an observation.

Also, many who can't do something think you shouldn't do it. Not calling anyone specific out on this but I have heard it many times.

twice before i've had chambers beat up bad or completely missing from dropping valves , and when I got them back they were perfect...I just recently purchased another set of heads with the same issue in 1 chamber . , its in for repair and I expect it will be perfect when I get it back ..

just wish I could get this Dart block repaired somewhere ..

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
1. Again s blown up chamber repair is very different from s cracked head repair.

2. I wouldn’t let Steve Schmidt touch my lawn mower

Or weed wacker too!!!!!!!

Again, TOP38…KNOWS!

quote:

Originally posted by David Covey:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Well when you start talking about T/F and T/A engines, machined blocks are easier to repair than cast blocks. You don't have to worry about inclusions in the machined blocks and crack migration isn't as big of an issue.

Let me clarify, there were cast blocks long before anyone whittled a engine block out of a block of aluminum. Think KB and Donovan their stuff was repaired for years.

The repairs may not be as pretty as a new piece but it will function as well as new, and thats what I am going for.

As to chasing cracks, I know how to repair those.

Not arguing, a couple of you think it can't or shouldn't be done. I happen to disagree. Fortunately it's my time/money so it's going to happen.

This thread started with me asking who I could get to repair my stuff it has morphed into me being clueless, they can't be repaired and I don't know what I'm doing.

Good thing it's me and not others.

Dave

For the record, I never stated can't! Fixing a crack in a water jacket area is a PIA and why many don't/won't do it. If it's your time and labor, have at it!

BTW, where the crack is also is important to determine if it's even worth the time!

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

Dave, don't misunderstand. I'm on your side. I would weld those up in a heartbeat. I was just making an observation.

Also, many who can't do something think you shouldn't do it. Not calling anyone specific out on this but I have heard it many times.

Got ya..

Thanks
Dave

quote:

Originally posted by TOP38:

For the record, I never stated can't! Fixing a crack in a water jacket area is a PIA and why many don't/won't do it. If it's your time and labor, have at it!

BTW, where the crack is also is important to determine if it's even worth the time!

Since it was a rod that kicked out it naturally took out the cylinder wall to the outside of the block.
Block is cracked on the outside but a pretty good chunk is missing in the cylinder wall. The cylinder wall will have to be completely welded up, then a new sleeve installed. Indy uses a dry sleeve so it will not have water in contact with the repair.
I have talked to Indy and was given their repair procedures.

Dave

Dave, did they suggest 4943 or 4043 for the repair of the block?

Indy repaired a block for me about 15 years ago and it looked excellent but when I started to assemble it the back of the block was warped so bad the counter weight hit it. Had to grind on it for a couple of hours.
Ran it for a few years with no problem until it grenaded again.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Dave, did they suggest 4943 or 4043 for the repair of the block?

They told me to use 4043 for the outside and 5356 for the deck or cylinder wall.
Preheat and peen.

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by Bill Koski:
Indy repaired a block for me about 15 years ago and it looked excellent but when I started to assemble it the back of the block was warped so bad the counter weight hit it. Had to grind on it for a couple of hours.
Ran it for a few years with no problem until it grenaded again.

LOL,

I know it will warp and move around, that's normal. Mine will go to a shop that has all the equipment needed to square it up.

Back when I turned wrenches for a living I took a couple of 6 cyl chevy heads that were prone to cracking to Indy. The heads at that time were unobtainium. At the time they were to go to place for cast iron head repair. They fixed them and you could not tell where they had been repaired.

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by David Covey:

quote:

Originally posted by TOP38:

For the record, I never stated can't! Fixing a crack in a water jacket area is a PIA and why many don't/won't do it. If it's your time and labor, have at it!

BTW, where the crack is also is important to determine if it's even worth the time!

Indy uses a dry sleeve so it will not have water in contact with the repair.

Dave

Just re read this post.. The weld WILL come in contact with water..lol
This is a water block..
My bad.. Sometimes my fingers outpace my brain.

Dave

We have had numerous damaged heads for folks repaired by Slawko. Even ones previously fixed by someone else. If the person doing the repairs is competent there is ZERO reason it cannot be done successfully. The only real question is will you feel comfortable with the repaired piece when done.

Its fusing metal, if you understand the welding process and are competent in performing it. Know the base materials and what fillers work best with those no reason for it to be anymore difficult than welding a bracket on a table really.

Best of luck. Assume its an Indy block and to me the older blocks can be a crap shoot, especially if you get into the materials between the liners. They are really thin there and repair success is mixed at best from what I have seen. We have done a couple one ended up with a tall fill as it would just never seal. Quality of the castings, especially older ones and the areaa between the sleeves are the biggest issues.

Al, by your statement Brodix isn’t competent.