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DRR Sportsman |
What battery disconnect switch yall running? Michael Frizie ET 2471 | ||
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DRR S/Pro |
Mike, have you considered doing an electric cut off? I love mine. Here is a thread talking about it and I posted some pictures of my set up. https://drr.infopop.cc/eve/for...912/m/5157034086/p/1 | |||
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DRR Pro |
I started with the basic Moroso push/pull kit, upgraded the switch with a high continuous amperage dual pole for the alternator shut off. "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375 | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
Cole-Hersee with 4 terminals, ran a Moroso 2 terminal for over 20 years with no problem. | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Cole-Hersee - 75904-01 for a 4 pole, two large, two small terminals. good for cutting of the alternator. I switched to a solid state cut-off. way easier to set up and wire and should last forever. https://www.waytekwire.com/cat...e-battery-disconnect Meziere Tech. Make sure your water pump is on whenever you check your coolant level. | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
Meziere Tech. Make sure your water pump is on whenever you check your coolant level. | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
Pm me any contact info Michael Frizie ET 2471 | |||
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DRR Pro |
This is what I use, Double-Pole Single-Throw. Like 1Leg said, it cuts off Battery and also the Alternator Charge circuit wire. Note: It looks like Littelfuse may have acquired Cole-Hersee, several distributors are showing the LF brand name on the C-H switch Part Number. Prices vary wildly, seeing $87, $105. Here is a source that has them in stock for $63: Lake-View Electronics CH 75904-01 Dan "Jim" Moore Much too young to feel this damn old!! | |||
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DRR Pro |
I dumped the cable actuated/mechanical switch for one of these: https://modernracing.net/products/mr-750a-switch I also use one for my starter relay. Been flawless. I wanted to get the solid state but they were sold out. Never again a mechanical switch for me. Nice thing about using one like this is it's easy to put a kill switch on the dash too, no cables to run.... Mark Goulette Owner/Driver of the Livin' The Dream Racing dragster www.livinthedreamracing.com "Speed kills but it's better than going slow!" Authorized Amsoil Retailer | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
I like that except you would need a 2nd one wired parallel thru the kill switch if you have an alternator unless they have a 2 pole version | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
A good friend of mine went to the Solid State cutoff switch and 'last forever' was not his experience. He went back to a mechanical switch after 2-3 of them failed. Tony Leonard | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
Tony, how long did they last? I have been using mine for 2 years now. Did he just leave it on all the time or shut it off every time the car was shut off? | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
They only lasted a couple months at most. Not used every time the car was shut off, but pretty close. It's a full FuelTech operation, so as long as the power was on, there was a screen on and the switch panel was activated to listen. Tony Leonard | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
I said "should" last forever. Meziere Tech. Make sure your water pump is on whenever you check your coolant level. | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
Man that really sucks. I love mine, although I sourced the parts and did my own wiring so I don't have any idea what the issue is with that set up. I just know I will never go back to a manual switch. | |||
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DRR / Crew |
For those of you using the Cole Hersee mechanical switch with the 2 small poles for the alternator shut off you need to do your research. I've posted this many of times over the years, but these are not designed to run the alternator charge wire though as they only flow 20 amps. You may think it's working, but not properly and not charging the way you think it is. They are designed to control a relay which is used for the disconnect. Look at replacing or upgrading to the new LARGE 4 POST design and run the alternator though the 2nd set. SL... | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
SL is dead on. Says 20amps right under features for the #10-32 studs. https://www.littelfuse.com/pro...double-pole/75904-01 The product data sheet is much less clear about it so I see how it would be confusing. https://www.lvelectronics.com/...pdf/75900-SERIES.pdf | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
I used push/pull shutoff like the one shown above. I also ran a trans cable from the ****pit back to it and to a "parachute" lever - I can turn the car on and off from the ****pit or from outside. With a little planning it is really easy to do.  Configuration: 3350#, 582 C.I., 60 - 1.24 1/8 - 5.53@ 126MPH 1/4 - 8.73@ 159MPH  3700#+210lb driver, FULL interior, through mufflers, 10.5 tire. 60'-1.333 (IN 4000ft DA! Joisy Math excluded; 1.25sec using JOISY MATH.)  1/4 - 9.60@144MPH | |||
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| DRR Pro |
I use a 200 amp relay for the alternator, but currently alternator isn't in the car, but I did wire it for one. Plan is to put one in but for now it's on the back burner as just tryting to get new car ready to race Mine are wired in series with two kill switches. One at the back of the car and one on the dash. I use a second one for the starter. The 200 amp relay for the alternator is powered from the master and grounded to the battery. Once I figure out the alternator mounting it will get hooked up, but I wanted it there no matterr what so I wouldn't have to wire it in later. Mark Goulette Owner/Driver of the Livin' The Dream Racing dragster www.livinthedreamracing.com "Speed kills but it's better than going slow!" Authorized Amsoil Retailer | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
Part number of the mechanical switch with the large posts?? Clowns to the left of me, Jokers to the right. Here I am....... | |||
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