moving my battery to the nose on my dragster can I use a remote master disconnect switch like the painless 30204 but ran to the on off switch in the back of the car or does the shutting off motion have to be done by a manual control?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Nitrous1,

it does not have to be a manual control, plenty of cars today have the electric shut off

The battery cutoff switch must have a manual control.

To my understanding(no rule book handy) it has to be accessible manually operated from out side of car.In case of mishap power can be shut off to reduce rick of fire.

While I understand and agree with rule. I wish it wasn't since it such PIA to setup on my car.Well unless its needed to save that same a$$,mine. Then its worth it.LOL

Brand new dragsters being built daily with electric shut offs.

Really? I will have to check into that. With battery in nose,shut off mid chassis(infront of motor FED) getting shut off in rear is pain add in its mag 12 ignition and pain grows. If can do electric it will ton easier set up.

Chris - If you use a 6 pole toggle switch connected to a continuous duty solenoid, this will allow you to use one side of the switch to ground the mag and the other side to control the solenoid which will shut off all power to the car.

This works very well and is legal as you manually can shut off the car from the rear. It doesn't state "mechanical" it states manual.

Danny Nelson and I think M&M use these solenoids on all new dragsters.

SL...

I now install a 100% duty cycle solenoid controlled with toggle switches in all my builds. One switch at the rear, one switch in drivers reach. The rear switch remains on at all times, the driver controls power with his switch.

In an emergency, the rear switch also kills power. Both switches must be on, opening either one kills power. It is very convenient, works perfectly and eliminates the morse cable function.

I can post wiring diagram and solenoid number if someone is interested.

the only downside is the power draw from the solenoid.not a big deal if shut off but left on will drain battery.there are devices out there to auto shut off after preset time

I sorta had a discussion about this with Baker at IHRA several years back.
The continuous duty solenoid is controlled with a rotary or toggle switch which powers the solenoid.
But the rule book says the battery switch must shut off all electrical functions.

My argument was and still is, if the switch must shut off ALL electrical functions, after the solenoid is deactivated how does it reactivate the solenoid?
The answer is it cannot, unless there is still power at the disconnect switch, which is against the rules.

LOL... I think a rewording like say "unless an electrical disconnect is utilized" should be added.

I know...Always the negative Nelly..

I do think the solenoid is a lot cleaner install, but what would happen if in a crash the two connections at the on/off switch were unable to be disconnected somehow?

Dave

dave mine are on the ground side and if the circuit is broken any where it kills the solenoid

sorry misread,in that case my off delay timer would shut it off at my preset time,(way too long lol)

The wiring diagram is crude. Just take a minute to follow the wires and think through it;

*the switches are push/pull type
*both switches must be "pulled" for the system to be live. Pushing either switch will "kill" power
*the 100% duty cycle solenoid is Cole Hersee #24213 with is a 200 amp rated load rated but will tolerate 400 amp briefly.
*the solenoid has two small terminals, one is the signal wire, other is ground [does not matter which is which]

If you have a question I will attempt to answer.

If you wire the system as in the diagram, it will work as expected. Just do one wire at a time and follow the diagram.

The situation is this; you are using a toggle switch to turn on the master solenoid rather than turning it on by hand or cable.

At this time I have five cars in service with type system and all work as expect with no problems.

When charging the battery and if the car will set for a length of time during race day I recommend turning off one switch.

Cole Hersee #24213

another note, all power to all components comes from the starter side of the solenoid. Thus, when the solenoid is off, all components are off.

quote:

Originally posted by Larry Woodfin:
Cole Hersee #24213

Larry, with your multimeter set to ohms, what does it read across the solenoid coil winding ??

I can check that for you tomorrow and post the result

Used a solenoid once on my old roadster. It cost us a race, never again. Good luck on whatever you decide.

I've looked over the diagram and have a question. Are these DPST switches, so that they will send power in either position? If not I can see a problem that was the main reason for me to put a Morse cable and handle inside my car.

If both switches have to be on for it to work and on is only one position, then I could get caught strapped in and not being able to turn power on from inside the car.

Curtis

quote:

Originally posted by rusty:
dave mine are on the ground side and if the circuit is broken any where it kills the solenoid

That would work.. As it kills all power from the positive side...

It only takes a brick to hit me once in a while..lol

Dave