My data logger says I'm having zero problems. But I'm just a lowly small block guy.

quote:

Originally posted by RacerVX54:

quote:

Originally posted by 434 olds:
Who the f o c k runs a 12V system.
It`s the 21st century. everyone should be running a 16V system. Too many benefits to list.

Probably 85% of all bracket racers run still run 12v. Works fine for me no reason to switch or change.

^^^LOL, VX54 Knows!^^^

I'm a bracket racer & run 12v batteries.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
My data logger says I'm having zero problems. But I'm just a lowly small block guy.

Mine to, my Data logger is not showing any problems....

As for 12 Volt to 16 Volt it is 6 of one and half dozen of the other. Really not much difference and I have ran both.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
agree for high compression, big cube engines BUT they do have a reputation of failing without warning and unless you carry a spare, you're screwed because you won't be able to leave the track and drive to the local auto parts store to get a replacement. You'll be making a call to Summit or Jegs and it can't be shipped air/over night because it is a hazardous item.

You can still put in a 12v

I know

quote:

Originally posted by 67TSCHEVY2:
data logger info gives excellant info on the biggest reason to run 16.

We are waiting. Fact is if it was proven 16v race cars is faster then 12volt their wouldnt be a car at a drag strip with a 12 volt system.

I run 12v batteries x2 in my Nova. I just get the Walmart brand since there is one close by damn near every track I race at. A black battery is a black battery, just paying for a warranty is the difference in price.

I had a problem where the alternator couldn't keep up with the demands and had an intermittent inconsistency. When the car would shift, voltage would drop to 10v and struggle to get back up to 12v by the end of the run. Found it on the grid data logging. My gauge showed 14.5v so I would have never found it.

I also run a Data Logger on my cars and Alternator. One time the Logger let me know Alternator was not charging before it cost me a round.

As for ET and MPH there is no difference between 12 volt and 16 volt systems. I have ran both with no problems that I could blame on system. The only reason I changed to 16 volt a few years ago is because I had ran an Optima for ever and even though it still was working great I thought it was time to retire it to trailer duty.

I prefer the AGM type just for safety reasons but do not care if it is 12 or 16 volt simply not much difference. 16 Volt spins over faster but goes dead quicker. Could not tell any difference in cooling time or Consistency of car. When I ran the 16 volt system I did not use the Step down regulators or anything and all components worked great.

Bottom line is both work just as good as long as your components, starter, Alternator, wiring and grounds are good. On the new car I am building I went back to 12 volt system.

12V can't go wrong with Deka batteries, if you want to buy them at a discount parts store Oreilly batteries are Deka.
I run an alternator and have a volt gauge on the dash. I charge while cooling between rounds. My car is simple and that's how I want to keep it.

quote:

Originally posted by RacerVX54:

quote:

Originally posted by 67TSCHEVY2:
data logger info gives excellant info on the biggest reason to run 16.

We are waiting. Fact is if it was proven 16v race cars is faster then 12volt their wouldnt be a car at a drag strip with a 12 volt system.

Indeed
I record data and have never seen voltage variation with my 12v dekas and an alternator

FWIW, I agree with Brian's choice to stay with 12v battery(s) for his car/engine and the only reason I went to 16v for the Firebird is because I went 16v for my dragster. As much as I can, I run the same equipment in both cars, makes stocking spares much easier.

That said 12v is not a one size fits all for every engine. I didn't want to run a 16v battery for the reasons I've already stated but I tried several 12 volt batteries in my dragster over 7 years and was never really happy with the occasional slow cranking and which caused several pinion drives to shyt the bed. Since switching to 16v, no slow starting, no kickback, no busted pinion drive in the last 2 seasons. So my 1300HP 16:1 648 is much happier being cranked over with a 16v battery whether first start of the day which was an issue many times, or the last start of the night before rolling into the water box for the final round.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
FWIW, I agree with Brian's choice to stay with 12v battery(s) for his car/engine and the only reason I went to 16v for the Firebird is because I went 16v for my dragster. As much as I can, I run the same equipment in both cars, makes stocking spares much easier.

That said 12v is not a one size fits all for every engine. I didn't want to run a 16v battery for the reasons I've already stated but I tried several 12 volt batteries in my dragster over 7 years and was never really happy with the occasional slow cranking and which caused several pinion drives to shyt the bed. Since switching to 16v, no slow starting, no kickback, no busted pinion drive in the last 2 seasons. So my 1300HP 16:1 648 is much happier being cranked over with a 16v battery whether first start of the day which was an issue many times, or the last start of the night before rolling into the water box for the final round.

Your reasoning makes perfect sense.

I have been running 16v XS D1600 batteries for almost 10 years. I have always ran a ultra mini alternator from the 60amp Powermaster and most recently a 75amp HOP ultra. My new car will have a HOP super mini 100 amp alternator and I'll probably swap out the ultra on my wife's car to the Super also.

I always charge between rounds even if it's only a few minutes and I've always ran fan and water pump while charging and never had a problem. (knocking on wood!).I use the best charger out there for 16v which is Rock, Moroso or Interactor which are all the same made by Interactor.

I used to swap batteries out every 2 years but now go 3 years with no problems. I have double entered, fast lapped in the heat and cold and they have never let me down. Curly has stated numerous times how 16v goes dead quicker but I have not seen that.

He has, ad nauseam, at least twice so far in this thread.

quote:

Originally posted by TonyB6255:
I always charge between rounds even if it's only a few minutes and I've always ran fan and water pump while charging and never had a problem. (knocking on wood!).I use the best charger out there for 16v which is Rock, Moroso or Interactor which are all the same made by Interactor.

Me too and I have 120amp ECAE alternators on both cars.

The other nice thing about 16v is being able to spin a cold engine over to build oil pressure regardless of weather without concern for killing the battery which was always a concern with the dragster. I just did exactly this with the Firebird, building 50+ psi oil pressure then I fired it right up on first attempt and it’s 49 degrees here. Next up is the same routine with the dragster.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:
^^^^^^^^^ THIS
I replaced my 9 yr old Odyssey 34/78 PC1500DT in July 2021 with same new one. Still worked but seamed to crank slightly slower. Gave it to a friend for his trailer winch battery and works fine for him. I like these best for 12v and dual terminal. Weighs 50#

Went with this battery's well. Installed yesterday nice piece

I'm using one that is a little less cca. Mine is 75/86-PC1230 just because it's a better fit where mine mounts. I bought this one in 2017.

About a year after installing it I left my main power on for a week. Dial board and a few other led dash lights ran it down to 6 volts. I followed Odyssey's procedure for resurrecting a dead battery. I'm still running it now and you would never know it happened. I do keep one of the small Battery Tender maintainers on it 24-7 when it's at home, except for that week of course. LOL I also run a 55amp mini alternator and I don't charge at the track.

While on the subject of batteries:

Looking for some feedback about a 16 volt lithium battery, specifically if one will be enough. Thinking about exchanging the current 43 lb. 16 volt gel type battery for a single light weight (9 lb.) lithium 16 volt. This will be in a 665" T/S car that is towed around and doesn't have to stop and rear-start frequently.

Want to shift a little rear-weight.

Bob

This message has been edited. Last edited by: RPROGAS,

I have been racing my mini TS Camaro with a Braille lithium battery and House of Payne ultra mini alternator for the last 2 years. I normally race on 1 system of NOS and occasionally will qualify of 2 systems. I drive to the lanes and back. The same battery was run for 2 years in our PDRA Elite TS car that was towed to and from the lanes. No issues.

I never charge this Odyssey battery at the track having a 150 amp alternator. Even if I run the water pump and fan briefly with engine off for cooling on an excessively hot race day between rds, still no need to charge. The alternator will produce 102 amps at idle. Always reads 14.2 -14.4v at idle.

I follow Odyssey instructions that states as long as voltage is over 12.65v there is no need to charge. I meter the battery prior to leaving for a race and if over 12.65v I do not charge. Prior to putting the car away 4-5 months for winter here in the Midwest, I fully charge the battery with Interacter charger, remove charger, and leave battery in car. Odyssey battery always good at start of season for 9 yrs prior to replacement in 2021.

quote:

Originally posted by RacerVX54:

quote:

Originally posted by 434 olds:
Who the f o c k runs a 12V system.
It`s the 21st century. everyone should be running a 16V system. Too many benefits to list.

Probably 85% of all bracket racers run still run 12v. Works fine for me no reason to switch or change. And for the very reason Ed states is why I am sticking with 12v

Brian, I'm using the 12v NAPA 8475 batteries. I did the 16 volt thing and it drove me nuts. Had a failure at the track and no help was available. Go with what works for you. Find a NAPA store and make friends with them.