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| Starter Heat Question | Login/Join |
| DRR S/Pro |
I have a motor home with a 506 ci Chevy (Dart block bored +.100 and a 1/4 inch stroker crank) that uses a set of Doug Thorley Tri-Y headers. I've had slow starter issues from day-1 when the engine heats up so I thought I would try a high torque aftermarket starter to solve the issue. The only problem is that the high torque starter positions the solenoid very close to one of the header pipes. The clearance is about two inches. I wrapped a 7 inch long section of Earls heat insulation between the pipe and the solenoid hoping to reduce the heat. Just looking for any suggestions on how to insulate the solenoid from being damaged from the heat. The original heat shield on the stock starter won't adapt to the new starter. Thanks for any suggestions. Bob | ||
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DRR Top Comp |
Most of the mini starters have some adjustment on location of solenoid so you can move it away some. https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/ "Dunning-Kruger Effect" -a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge. Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue. 4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
not sure about your machinest skills. Most starter have enough room on block that your could rotate ,center punch and ril and tap to relocate. If you can not do and could give me idea of where you need it I will do it for you at nothing biut shipping cost. I have a spare block that I am not using and will drill and tap it and send it. when get it you can either use and ship me your or just pay me shipping plus 40 bucks for mine. America home of free. Brought to you by 2nd amendment. | |||
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DRR Pro |
bob is there a chance a timing retard could help the sow start honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224 | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Agree, it would only need 4-6 degrees Jeremiah Hall | |||
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| DRR Elite |
Bob, call your neighbors over in Escondido and ask Jerry how to fix the problem. L8R, Mike | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
Thanks for the responses guys: I can't change the position of the solenoid on this particular starter in an effort to move it further from the header pipe. The solenoid is off-set (around 10:00) toward the outside of the block directly into the path of the header. The stock solenoid is positioned at 12:00, directly above the starter. Retarding the timing (stock Chevy distributor) didn't seem to help but it did lose a significant amount of power so I am sort of stuck with the current initial timing and curve. The heat effecting the starter is significant, so much so that this may require a header change to something that gives me more clearance. I hate to do this since the power lever with the current headers (Doug Thorley TRI-Y) really helped the power and mileage, it just played he!! with the starter. I can see that a header change may be necessary. Thanks again guys: Bob | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
I would try one of those starter heat shield blankets they sell on Jeg's & Summit that wrap around the starter and/or make a shield out of a piece of aluminum. 2 inches is a pretty generous gap compared to some headers that practically touch in spots, should be able to squeeze something in between. Billy Duhs - BD104X@gmail.com | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
How about some ducting to blow air on it? ____________________________ 2017 and 2018 Osage Casinos Tulsa Raceway Park No-Box Champion 2018 Div4 Goodguys Hammer award winner | |||
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DRR Pro |
Have you tried a genuine GM high torque starter? They are significantly different internally than the standard GM starter. Delco Re-man part number 323-255, every one I had bought prior to the brobama destruction of the GM parts system, were all brand new parts, the difference between a "new" and "re-man" was only the warranty duration. Double the field coils and a bigger armature. "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375 | |||
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| DRR Pro |
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco...ctured/dp/B000C9LVG6 "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375 | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
If heat from headers bothers starters, this won't be in play for long. It is what it is.  | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
That's about how tight it fits Mike. Bob | |||
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| DRR Elite |
Bob, Meziere’s have a very good wiring diagram that you should use and probably fix your problem L8R, Mike | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
Bob, is it a single cylinder tube or one of the two cylinder tubes? If it's a single cyl tube you can dimple it quit a bit and it will still flow as good or better than the 2-cyl tubes. Also retarding your timing will just add to your hot exhaust problem. Can you get crafty and redrill holes to point the solenoid downward? I assume its nowhere near the ground in a motorhome... . Dave F J B | |||
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| DRR Pro |
That little bit of header heat is NOTHING compared to the heat of pulling a load down the highway 3 hours at a time between fuel stops. "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375 | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
Dave, at the point of contact with the header pipe it has already merged into the second pipe (Tri-Y) so the area surrounding the starter is rather wide. I ordered a heat insulation pad from Summit this morning, it should be here by Wednesday. Currently I will need a raft and scuba gear to get under the coach. The heat produced by the header pipe is very significant, especially while pulling a steep grade. I can't imagine that starter would last very long under this condition. Everything tucks under the starter, between the block and the starter. As a last resort I thought about installing my spare Turbo Start 16 volt battery, I just don't know if that might create problems with the stock electronic ignition. Bob | |||
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DRR Trophy |
What is the voltage at the starter while cranking. Meziere Tech. Make sure your water pump is on whenever you check your coolant level. | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
Jerry I'll check the voltage. I did start the engine with the new starter and it did spin the engine a lot faster, I just didn't let it run for more than a second or two. Bob | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
If that gives you some relief you might consider some header wrap in that specific area too. Illegitimi non carborundum | |||
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