https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNuVmMu2uxk

Anyone out there with any experiences in installing?

Any advice on tuning for launch stall changes?

Thanks...

I know Hughes have a second version that effects both the converter feed side and the cooler side. This would be the version I would want. Depending on input shaft / stator tube in play.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

I’ve been using one from Marco, the sponsor on here, for a couple years I think and it has been helpful for sure but I think it’s a bandaid... I have mine turned off now

As time goes by you'll hear more cars with powerglides that sound as if they have three to four gears. You'll also see more of these steel can bellhousings in the staging lanes. Specific these cars, would be my guess.

That's more or less the setup I made for mine. There are other ways that are much more effective. But this did what I needed for getting on the two step.

I like that steel belhousing.

quote:

Originally posted by Wooley:
I like that steel belhousing.

So the deal with the steel can is they come into play when the conventional thrust is done away with and replaced with a needle bearing crankshaft thrust. The conventional thrust limits converter pressure to around 125psi safely with a typical BBC SBC, even lower with some others like LSX applications. So if you're able to run higher converter pressures in conjunction with dumps without damaging the engine, this is when you might wanna consider working a steel can bell housing into your program for the sake of safe experimentation with converter pressures.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

wonder if FTI has similar set up? Ready up on this gives me few ideas where it could be handy.

Fti has one as well, its made into the servo cover

I’ve wired a few cars that had the Abruzzi dump solenoid, seems like a good idea. Just wire them into a timer to aid getting by bumps or bad spots in the track that your car doesn’t like. Aid or not, if it helps why not.
BB Abruzzi is the board sponsor as well.

quote:

Originally posted by BarneyB:
I’ve wired a few cars that had the Abruzzi dump solenoid, seems like a good idea. Just wire them into a timer to aid getting by bumps or bad spots in the track that your car doesn’t like. Aid or not, if it helps why not.
BB Abruzzi is the board sponsor as well.

Isn’t a timing retard easier?

I would think dump valve and timing retard are kind of doing same thing.Except with dump valve you keep motor making same power and just put less of it to ground,kind of like slipping the clutch in fuel car.

Why not have both as tools in the tool box?

Anyone know what valve they are using? Yea I am cheap broke dyke and like building it myself even if it cost me more in long run. Its usually does.LMBDAO

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:
That's more or less the setup I made for mine. There are other ways that are much more effective. But this did what I needed for getting on the two step.

This Hughes brand dumps on the front side (feed) of the converter. How much increase in stall did you see dumping on the feed? We experimented in the shop with converter pressure on the back side of the converter (cooler) and saw 200 rpm increase in stall with a Cortina core 9" converter. We've since abandoned the dumps with the new DXP Street class rules allowing no dumps per the rules.

We were looking at the Hughes Dump valve which can dump on both sides of the converter. Both feed and cooler side.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:
That's more or less the setup I made for mine. There are other ways that are much more effective. But this did what I needed for getting on the two step.

This Hughes brand dumps on the front side (feed) of the converter. How much increase in stall did you see dumping on the feed? We experimented in the shop with converter pressure on the back side of the converter (cooler) and saw 200 rpm increase in stall with a Cortina core 9" converter. We've since abandoned the dumps with the new DXP Street class rules allowing no dumps per the rules.

We were looking at the Hughes Dump valve which can dump on both sides of the converter. Both feed and cooler side.

Well, that's not how I used mine so I can't say. Mine is on when I lay on the t-brake, and stays on until a designated rpm. I wanted the spool to be a little more snappy without sacrificing slip and stall under boost. Really we are talking about tenths of a second faster on spooling. But you do what you have to bracket racing a combo like that.

This may be what a dump looks like down track. It appears they're using a dump after the 1 - 2 shift at 9 seconds into the video with the drop back on the shift (stall) 9087 rpm at the 1 - 2 shift. Then they lose the dump at 10 seconds and the engine drops back to 8920 rpm. It sounds like two shifts there but if it were two shifts, the stall wouldn't be differing by basically 200 rpms, you wouldn't think.

Data on screen.

https://youtu.be/BeBnNSaUOwg

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

I'm still wondering what a steel bellhousing has to do with the roller trust bearing? Why is it needed just cause you changed to a needle bearing thrust? Is this just to be extra safe when experimenting with different converter pressures?

quote:

Originally posted by Triple Nickel:
I'm still wondering what a steel bellhousing has to do with the roller trust bearing? Why is it needed just cause you changed to a needle bearing thrust? Is this just to be extra safe when experimenting with different converter pressures?

The can would / could contain a leak if it blew the pump seal out.

Looks pretty heavy duty eh?

simple solution.One word Titanium!

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
simple solution.One word Titanium!

Titanium can is 10 lbs heavier than the Reid bell, just FYI. For some odd reason the titanium can comes with a steel liner. For a clutch it's needed, but I've never seen a converter explode.

An aluminum can would be a good bit less expensive than the titanium.

All of our cars get belly pans, so no transmission tunnel and a can is needed to seal off the back of the engine.