My first motor from shafiroff had a one way check ball in the breather looking thing that screwed into the valve cover. The vacuum pump pulled air from the valve cover on the side of the breather which lifted the ball off its seat. When vacuum pump wasn't turning the ball sat back in the seat and sealed off the motor. That one had almost zero condensation in it, i noticed when I went to the moroso vacuum pump fitting in the valve cover in place of that breather looking check valve thing, i would get condensation. May be something to experiment with.

Any Idea who made the checkball piece? Sounds like something to look at. Will try to research but manufscture make easier.

Probably something like these.

https://www.moroso.com/positiv...tered-breather68788/



I made a few sets of them way back for me and my buddies.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:

Cons? More work to do between rounds and make take some testing to get it set up and working good.

You are right. Could be just do it at the end of race prior to loading up. I usually take a bit of time getting loaded as I have people in and out of my pit BSing..

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
Kind of surprised nobody has mentioned my orignal idea on this which was electric drive for pumpI have. If could find a way to spin it about 2000 until hit throttle and then have way to spin it up to 4000 which equal engine at 8000. Kind of have eletric motor driven belt drive with something like rheostat controlled. Yea not simple build item hence looking into elctric pump.

Chris,
Are you thinking to add the electric motor in the car to drive the pump? How much/big of a motor would it take to spin the pup to 4000 rpm? You are constantly thinking up ways to reduce clutter and weight. Sounds to me like just driving it by a belt is the best way to cover those area's.
You asked for someone to address your original post .


Dave

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Probably something like these.

https://www.moroso.com/positiv...tered-breather68788/



I made a few sets of them way back for me and my buddies.

If memory serves me right. I think during the Bader days at IHRA they required a positive locking breather in the rules. You could use these or put a strap across the old mopar style breathers. Shogun also made the same thing as Moroso (I had the Shogun)

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by David Covey:
I have been considering an electric vacuum pump to run when engine is turned off. Seems that might help with condensation instead of trying to build heat then shut down.
After you shut off the mechanical pump no longer pulls moisture out of the engine and I don't see opening a vent in the valve cover doing much.

I considered getting a small wet/dry vacuum to do this.

Pros/Cons?

Dave

My buddy with an Enderle injected SBC used a small shop vac at the end of the day....heat the engine up to 180-200, park it, attach vacuum to it, and let it cool off.

I think Camaros and maybe some Cadillacs had a 12v electric vacuum pump for brake booster vacuum?

quote:

Originally posted by David Covey:

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
Kind of surprised nobody has mentioned my orignal idea on this which was electric drive for pumpI have. If could find a way to spin it about 2000 until hit throttle and then have way to spin it up to 4000 which equal engine at 8000. Kind of have eletric motor driven belt drive with something like rheostat controlled. Yea not simple build item hence looking into elctric pump.

Chris,
Are you thinking to add the electric motor in the car to drive the pump? How much/big of a motor would it take to spin the pup to 4000 rpm? You are constantly thinking up ways to reduce clutter and weight. Sounds to me like just driving it by a belt is the best way to cover those area's.
You asked for someone to address your original post .


Dave

Well simplest not always best. If gets the while damn thing out of my way when working on engine and off ront of engine it is beter. I figure iot using gearing or belt ratio ti akme less motor to drive it will be offest by removal of mounting, belt and drive off cam as is. Abouth even offset with maybe little penitally.

Hell simplest is throw it on shelf and run two hoses to exhaust and let it rip. Still a possiblity too.less weight zero drag but less vacuum too. Always a trad off.

While most all pull from vc looking into if better pulling for lifer valley, with a baffle in middle of intake inder runners. exposed to both heads at pushrod passages and crankcase at smae time. Just a thought envestigating.

As for how big motor, I spun it to 3000 other night using a 20v drill and gear drive the other day just goofing or researching ideas.

As for clutter. Could mount whole feal in lower fram membner a 1' awat fro engone wioth one hose back to vc or _______ and be totally out of my way.

I know most here or seems. Ae just go with what is simple and as everyone else. WHY that not fun would be my reply;

Just like why build a piece that bolts to trans pan that allows me to got reverse by simply shifting into reverse and not have to have switch that engages or disengages that i have to manipulate. Because I can and for me it is the fun of it all. Differnt fun doing as everyone else boring as hell. We all spent money and time for this so can enjoy.Just like some think workking on car is not enjoyable i think not working is same.

Maybe just me. I thought i ask if anyone runniog a electric driven vacuum and if so what brand and thought. Measning what you thought about the electric driven vacuum you have or know of. Do not think I was asking if should be done, After lots of post telling me should not do different because this one way is best weay period. I now not to ask if should do, Regardless of that I get told anyway. Just amazed how many just do as proven easy way.

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:
This is information about not running a vacuum pump, electric or otherwise.

I get asked all the time about not running a vacuum pump or pan-evac on my engine. I get it from my engine builder & other racers.

To be frank, I don't need it. I have 2 catch cans with breathers, one on each side. I have no engine leaks, no oil in the catch cans & only a small amount of water in catch cans in Nov. Dec. Jan. I don't need any more HP & highly doubt that a vacuum pump would provide any. Plus, 99.9% of my runs aren't using all the power I have available.

I like this about not needing/ using internal vac and having great results. I prefer/ use evac that works excellent for my engine.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:
This is information about not running a vacuum pump, electric or otherwise.

I get asked all the time about not running a vacuum pump or pan-evac on my engine. I get it from my engine builder & other racers.

To be frank, I don't need it. I have 2 catch cans with breathers, one on each side. I have no engine leaks, no oil in the catch cans & only a small amount of water in catch cans in Nov. Dec. Jan. I don't need any more HP & highly doubt that a vacuum pump would provide any. Plus, 99.9% of my runs aren't using all the power I have available.

I like this about not needing/ using internal vac and having great results. I prefer/ use evac that works excellent for my engine.

M & M,

I look at bracket racing differently than most. That's why I was very specific with my ring package & other combination items when research/designing my go to the grave ProCharged bracket combo.

I seen way too many having an oily milkshake of fluid/sludge coming out of everywhere. I was mainly following the heads-up/no-prep boosted racers. I couldn't follow any bracket racers because very few use boost, except TD; I didn't need the power they were chasing after.

I think I have taken a no-nonsense approach to the design & use of this platform. I wanted a low boost, easy leaving combo with small radials & have an overwhelming MPH for the chase. I chose to use readily available 100 octane UL pump gas that I had been using for 20+ years, until it disappeared recently. Everyone said I needed alky; I proved them wrong. Using TBI EFI, was told that wouldn't work. I've been told about everything on my combo will not work! I don't care what they say, my shyt works!

I don't chase quicker ETs; I chase good reactions & I chase wins. I do it by killing power in the right areas & it makes for a unique look on the track!

I'm going to contradict what I said above. I must say I'm looking forward to leaning on the combo for the Street Legal Head-Up Drags in Oct. I'll have the wick turned up but will not show my hand. I'll take or give up the stripe like a true bracket racer, but I plan on taking the stripe! You guys will get the results good, bad or in-between.

2BKING is sorry for the rant.

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:



My buddy with an Enderle injected SBC used a small shop vac at the end of the day....heat the engine up to 180-200, park it, attach vacuum to it, and let it cool off.

That is exactly what I'm thinking.

Dave

AS far as the original question "electric motor to drive a vacuum pump" that one will be interesting to see where you end up as far as electric motor sizing. Running it with a drill for a minute or two is a hell of alot different than turning it on for about 5 minutes a time for 10 or so passes in a single race day. You'll need a hefty charging system. Good luck.

Make sure to post up how many HP the vacuum pump needs to operate effectively and how big that electric motor is when your finished and they system is reliable and operating. I'd love to know.

quote:

Originally posted by Triple Nickel:
AS far as the original question "electric motor to drive a vacuum pump" that one will be interesting to see where you end up as far as electric motor sizing. Running it with a drill for a minute or two is a hell of alot different than turning it on for about 5 minutes a time for 10 or so passes in a single race day. You'll need a hefty charging system. Good luck.

Make sure to post up how many HP the vacuum pump needs to operate effectively and how big that electric motor is when your finished and they system is reliable and operating. I'd love to know.

Well if it took a 5 Hp electric motor to run it that would weigh 75 to 100 LBS or more for the motor alone not including motor mounts and frame and a 5 Hp 12 volt DC motor would need about 375-400 Amps to run so how big would your batteries and alternator need to be to make it work? And good luck finding a 12 volt DC 5 Hp motor. If your vacuum pump was pulling 20 inches of vacuum and making 23 more Hp you may need 7.5 Hp electric motor to run it? Who knows?

The Math aint Mathing.

The beauty of a vacuum pump is it makes more horsepower than it takes to run it but it does take power to run it. If you plan on running it with an electric motor you need to know how much HP it takes? 5 Hp?, 7.5 Hp? 10 HP? I would not be surprised to see if your motor makes 20 more HP with a Vacuum pump that it may take 10 HP to run that pump but nothing is free.

Long story short if your goal is to make HP and clean up front of motor running an electric motor to run vacuum pump is not going to work. Small electric motor will not run it and big electric motor would add too much weight and other things like more batteries, huge alternator and potential electrical problems.

If you do not want a vacuum pump and want simple just take it off and use breathers.

Curly knows......

5 HP don't sound like much until you try and find a DC electric motor that's rated at 5 HP.

Again, I'm interested in what you find as far as an electric motor to drive your moroso vacuum pump and how it lays out in your racecar. Vacuum pump has max RPM of 4000 so your motor/drive system needs to take that into account.

If you want to clear condensation and for cooldown in the pits a shop vac will do wonders.

quote:

Originally posted by Al Alguire:
If you want to clear condensation and for cooldown in the pits a shop vac will do wonders.

I agree with you there and fairly cheap and easy.

I'd think you could use a mini starter motor without the gear reduction to spin one. Amperage draw shouldn't be excessive with the appropriate pulley ratio.
Those are cheap enough to be worth experimenting with.
Thoughts???

Not sure why comments about 5hp motor. If drill will spin it and use a gear drive I am thinking notm much to spin it up. Will it pull 15" doubt will be more than enough to evac the engine I think so. Like most tell me it bracket racing and lowest et means nothing. Not like spending 3 or 400 to try it only thin to loose is 40 50 bucks and time.