switched oil brands with scary results

May 29, 2019, 08:18 AM

quote:
Originally posted by jenavet:
quote:
never had a problem with pressure or wear.

I really don't think the schaeffers was going to hurt anything but definitely a huge difference in pressure that makes me uncomfortable
DLR can you post your racepak graph on your schaeffers oil ? and what viscocity you are using?

I don't have a racepak in my car...I use a in car video camera to watch gauges through out the run....poor mans recorder..lol
I use the 191 Schaffers 20w50 in my 421 SBC with a moroso billet pump. basically 40 lbs at idle and 80 down the track. car runs 5.50's at 2450 lbs, so its pretty sporty for a 23* small block.

May 29, 2019, 10:50 AM

Woody B

quote:
Originally posted by 66belair:
Hey big Steve. What you mean about boiling the moisture out and reusing? How you do that?

I don't know what Steve does, perhaps he'll answer later. It's not necessary to boil it out though. The reason oil get's milky when there's alky/condensation in it is because alky and oil won't mix. Left alone the oil and alky will separate. Let the car sit for a day or 2 then just crack the drain plug and drain out the moisture/alky. It's heaver than oil so most of it will go to the bottom of the pan. The alky/water will come out first. As soon as it turns oily stick the drain plug back in. To get rid of the moisture/alky milk that in the valve covers just take the breathers out and leave it open in the trailer after the race. The bad stuff will evaporate. This may not work as good in some climates though. I ran alky forever, even in extremely cold weather winter time races. During the winter I'd drain the oil and sit the drain pan next the my heater. It would be clean in a day or so. I only done this when it was really cold.

May 29, 2019, 04:52 PM

Toad1

Never had an issue with Schaeffers 40wt Micron Moly in our 565. Oil pressure steady as the day it was on the dyno, four years ago.
Sample every oil change, just getting better and better. Going about 40-50 runs with alky carb.

Tried about every other brand. All are actually pretty good but the tests just show the additive package and very little foreign metals with Schaeffers is the best we tried. Granted I did not try $15.00 per quart Redline or some of the exotic oils.

May 30, 2019, 04:31 PM

Footloose

There is something else wrong. Switching brands had nothing to do with it, Maybe air was in the oil pressure lines or a small piece of debri stuck some where.

May 30, 2019, 05:01 PM

Cashflow

Methinks maybe Footloose is correct.

June 08, 2019, 06:43 AM

Hammertime

I’ve ran Schaffer’s for years now but have also ran Brad Penn and Lucas in the past my racepak never seen much change on oil side. It does look typical to what you would see with low oil level.

June 08, 2019, 11:16 AM

SCDIV1

Maybe his oil pressure issue was more than just what oil he was running....

Was watching D1TV yesterday and he blew it up pretty bad on a time run.....have no idea what broke....I'm not there...

June 09, 2019, 07:26 AM

jenavet

quote:
blew it up pretty bad on a time ru

kicked a rod...got greedy 89 passes on aluminum rods...thanks for reminding me

June 09, 2019, 09:14 AM

Cashflow

That sucks!

June 09, 2019, 09:33 AM

SCDIV1

Sorry for your misfortune, I was watching the race live....

You were discussing this very thing earlier this year I think about those rods..

Hopefully it didn't trash the block and heads...

June 09, 2019, 11:01 AM

Big Steve

quote:
Originally posted by jenavet:
quote:
blew it up pretty bad on a time ru

kicked a rod...got greedy 89 passes on aluminum rods...thanks for reminding me

Man that both sucks and makes me nervous. I sent mine back to MGP to be checked in the off season at 35 runs, they said they looked perfect and could safely run them the rest of the season and get 100 runs on them. Currently have 74. Pan is off right now, I am going to change rod bearings just because it makes me feel better.

June 09, 2019, 11:14 AM

"The Bender"

Ouch, sorry to hear that.

What rods?

272" Spitzer
540 Chevy
The Blower Shop XR1
FTI XPM Series Converter
FTI Level 6 Powerglide
3.69@199
.916 60'

2017 Bradenton Heads Up Madness
Open Outlaw Champ

2018 PDRA T/D #5
2019 PDRA T/D #2

2020 Retired From T/D Competition....

2020 Bradenton NMCA Hemi Shootout Winner

2021 getting back into bracket racing with a Gen3 Hemi powered 87 Cutlass.

June 09, 2019, 02:41 PM

adv ET 266

Did you collect oil pan temperature?
Like most have said, Shaffer’s oil is an unsurpassed value and being a paraffin based stock, the micron molly is a wise choice for methanol combustion. Also unrelated, using a multi-grade race oil is a mistake. It uses additives that will cause it to shear quickly out of grade. Depending on clearances, pick a straight weight oil and get into a routine of carefully warming the oil be putting the spurs to it. An oil temperature gauge is your friend.
Send a virgin sample of each oil to a reputable lab and you’ll have the information you’ll never find here on the oil you claim acted differently. Data talks and BS walks is a good moto. That is an less then $100 investment. In addition, call Shaffer’s oil and share this. They are a small oil company that prides itself on proper customer support. Your message here deserves giving them a chance to defend this disparaging report.

June 09, 2019, 04:49 PM

jenavet

I rolled the dice and lost.new rods are sitting here.was trying to pull out numidia,then Norwalk national event before replacing.
builder and manufacturer said 80-100.the guy next to me just replaced his at 105.

June 09, 2019, 08:50 PM

Bad News

quote:
Originally posted by Bad News:
quote:
Originally posted by Big Steve:
quote:
Originally posted by jenavet:
quote:
blew it up pretty bad on a time ru

kicked a rod...got greedy 89 passes on aluminum rods...thanks for reminding me

Man that both sucks and makes me nervous. I sent mine back to MGP to be checked in the off season at 35 runs, they said they looked perfect and could safely run them the rest of the season and get 100 runs on them. Currently have 74. Pan is off right now, I am going to change rod bearings just because it makes me feel better.

If you need to change bearings for no reason, that is just silly. Unless the oiling system has issues or you have found bearing material in the filter why would you. You aren't running it with a top alcohol tune up, measuring bearings. More harm than good in my thoughts. Screwing with already set and torqued rod bolts ..... Not me.
And what...... really can the manufacturer actually tell you? The bores are round and the center to center length is within a spec. Other than that, they really cannot predict how much longer they will last.

June 09, 2019, 10:19 PM

Big Steve

quote:
Originally posted by Bad News:
quote:
Originally posted by Bad News:
quote:
Originally posted by Big Steve:
quote:
Originally posted by jenavet:
quote:
blew it up pretty bad on a time ru

kicked a rod...got greedy 89 passes on aluminum rods...thanks for reminding me

Man that both sucks and makes me nervous. I sent mine back to MGP to be checked in the off season at 35 runs, they said they looked perfect and could safely run them the rest of the season and get 100 runs on them. Currently have 74. Pan is off right now, I am going to change rod bearings just because it makes me feel better.

If you need to change bearings for no reason, that is just silly. Unless the oiling system has issues or you have found bearing material in the filter why would you. You aren't running it with a top alcohol tune up, measuring bearings. More harm than good in my thoughts. Screwing with already set and torqued rod bolts ..... Not me.
And what...... really can the manufacturer actually tell you? The bores are round and the center to center length is within a spec. Other than that, they really cannot predict how much longer they will last.

At this HP level I think of inspecting the rod bearings and replacing them before they fail is on the same level as replacing aluminum rods before they break. Just preventive maintenance, upon inspection what if I find a bearing that's starting to fail, maybe its beat flat because the rod is out of round.....I may have just prevented a blown up engine
IMO rods dont break on their own, a bearing, bolt or wrist pin failure usually prempts the rod breaking.

June 10, 2019, 05:43 AM

BJs Wild Ride

I check and replace bearings frequently. I can read a tuneup by the bearings. I’ve added fuel to clean up a plug, but then found i needed to add more fuel to keep the bearing happy over a ~10 run cycle.

MGP sees a lot of rods and has good data. I put about 105 on my last set. They were inspected somewhere in the middle and I was told 100-120 (more or less, they were mildly non-committal). I would have gone a little longer but a pin moved in one of the rod caps so I decided it was time.

On blown alcohol to me it seems crazy to not check bearings for squish and tension and replace as needed. I’ve never gone more than 20-30 runs without seeing at least one bearing I wanted to replace. If it’s a 4.40 bracket car, maybe not, but if you’re burning any cad at all, checking bearings is easy insurance.

June 10, 2019, 02:27 PM

Ron C.

quote:
Originally posted by Big Steve:
I have been running Redline syn for a few years after running Lucas race only Syn, switched to their 60wt when I made the switch to a blown combo, love everything about Redline except the price but I have begun boiling the alky out and reusing which has helped in that area. I know allot of blown guys are running the Lucas 60w plus non syn race oil and are very happy with the results. You can get a 5 gallon pail of the 60 plus for around $100 which makes it very appealing so some. They also make it in a 50wt I believe

...........I' m with ya on the Red Line race oil. Been running it for years. We currently run it in three blown cars and wouldn't run anything else even if it was free.