Yes I have done that test

quote:

Originally posted by rusty:
have you tried a msd tester?if you dont have one I THINK you can place a spark plug in the dist end of coil wire and then tap the white wire on msd to ground .if all is working this should produce a spark on each tap.of course the spark plug would have to be grounded.not sure but unplug crank sensor to test with white wire.

if the coil sparked with a tester then you should get spark to the distributer and on to each plug,if not getting when trying to start it can only be trigger providing the tester was plugged in at harness nearest trigger connection, correct

two other thoughts ,i may have missed it but have you checked voltage while starting?it cant much below 10 i think.also though i have not witnessed it i have heard of issues with the wheel.

Has 13.7 cranking voltage

I noticed after I tried yet another coil this weekend it tried to fire and green light was blinking when cranking ,spun it over some more after and green light was not blinking?????

quote:

Originally posted by 3628: Here is the story, Over winter I decided to have car rewired and buy new grid like other car, which brings to my original post, .Any ideas ????

10 days still no start. Consider finding someone with MSD/ computer/ multimeter knowledge to help you with this problem. Because you keep looking at the same thing, you could be missing the obvious. Might be wise to check that the balancer 0 timing mark lines up with #1 @ TDC.

If the distributor you’re using has an internal trigger for ignition, try plugging it in eliminating the crank trigger.

dist 8558 balancer is lined up remember it was running ,kevin rodden had me bypass the relays by jumping a wire from 12 volts to ignition unit ??? I am going to do this again becase I was not watching to see if green light was blinking when cranking,The distributor is tall deck,but that is a good idea if i can come up with one

Update wired up an old 7 al3 laying on the garage floor and it fired right up so msd does not know how to repair my 7720 that I sent back or my 77303 is bad now it is going back under warranty,And my buddies brand new 7720 might be bad and my son and laws 7720 and 77303 might be bad

bad and my son in laws 7720 and 77303 might be bad

I can’t believe all those boxes are bad I mean maybe but is there something those boxes use for inputs or wiring that the 7al3 doesn’t that might not be right or compatibility with distributor

It is a 8558 tall deck crank tigger distributor

My buddies brand new 7720 said made in china right by the part # and it was made 07/12/23 and mine was made 04/27/23 and he bought his from motorstate and I bought mine from Jegs don't really care if you believe it or not

3628....... You have three 7720 and two 7730 that don’t work in Your car. Here’s what I suggest you do. Apparently your friend and son-in-law both use Grid 7730/7720 in their cars. Go over and start plugging those boxes into THEIR cars that run with Grid. Find one of each that works in THEIR car. Then plug them into YOUR car and see if it runs.

As for the analog box working and digital not, analog will run in conditions digital won’t even begin to work with.

markemark my plan is to do just that

I like and run MSD but I will say this they can be difficult to work with. I had a problem with my 7AL-2 box, car would run a 5.09 one pass nice and clean, next pass 5.49 banging and popping. Tested good with the ignition tester MSD said nothing wrong with box and led me on long wild goose chase. It is your grounds. Nope. It is the crank trigger wire, you need the shielded one. Nope, that did not fix it. You need a new crank trigger pick up. Nope that did not fix it. Are you sure the box is good. Oh yes, box is good you have some other problem, change this and that. All this time I am going back out to the track spending money testing and changing stuff. Nothing worked finally I changed out the 7AL-2 box and it ran great again. I kept trusting them and assuming they may know what they were talking about but they don't. First box I sent to Pat at Techwest and he did great got the box fixed and back to me fairly quickly. He said he knew exactly what was wrong and it is simple fix for him.

Later I sent two boxes to him and it took forever to get them back so I do not know what was going on with him but I no longer recommend him.

Now I do not know what the problem is with yours but you are doing the right thing swapping the boxes out with your buddies car to narrow down what component has failed and I do not doubt that you could have several bad.

My problem ended up being after buying a new black 7 al3,after I installed it same problem ,was the male plug in to the crank trigger sensor that you get with the k&r wiring kit,Thanks for your input

^^^^^ Thanks for the update and happy to hear you found the problem.

Man i am having almost the same issue.. Got to the track started up fine warmed it up. Go to restart no spark.

Look at the obvious. If Grid, does the green light come on when powering up Grid. Does Green light blink On/Off/On when cranking? Check crank sensor for being loose or out of adjustment. Place a spark plug in the coil output wire to the distributor and check for spark. Go back to the beginning of this thread and read it for help…. Explains much of what to look for and try.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:
Look at the obvious. If Grid, does the green light come on when powering up Grid. Does Green light blink On/Off/On when cranking? Check crank sensor for being loose or out of adjustment. Place a spark plug in the coil output wire to the distributor and check for spark. Go back to the beginning of this thread and read it for help…. Explains much of what to look for and try.

i dont run a crank trigger. I put another dist in and it started right up ran it for 10 mins set the timing and shut it off.. Tried to start it again no fire. Lights on the 7730 are working like there suppose to. I watch the video and gonna bench test the 7720.