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DRR Sportsman |
I got tired of pulling the threaded plugs out of the bottom of the block for winter storage in my unheated garage because the gush of water was a mess. Many years ago I went to pet****s and they did okay except that the wing part eventually just spins and I have to unscrew them. An elbow will fit and I thought about using some 3/8 heater hose to run to a ball valve. If you drain yours during the freezing months, how do you manage it? | ||
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DRR Pro |
I use to drain mine at the last race of the year at track…… | |||
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DRR Elite |
Same here | |||
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DRR Trophy |
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DRR Top Comp |
I use an AN number 6 elbow and a cap. Just take the cap off and it drains into a bucket. Clowns to the left of me, Jokers to the right. Here I am....... | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Rhats a great idea. BG | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
I also need to drain but this is my first yr with a alum block I dont have any drains above the oil pan rail how can I get all my water out? | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Solved my winter draining issue by moving back to Florida. Seriously though, I used the #6an with a cap. Drain at the track on last race of the year and your good to go. | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
BB or SB doesn't matter it's really a pain when you have a diaper. Maybe the AN fitting with a short line with a cap. | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
I just pull a threaded freeze plug out on each side of the block to drain but my block is also filled with grout to the bottom of the plug. If yours isnt then either leave the plugs out all winter so there is some expansion if it does freeze or rig something up with a shop vac and small hose to suck the remaining water out | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Don't forget the radiator. I lost a radiator one year, even though it was drained there was still enough to crack it. Now I just remove it and put in the basement. | |||
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DRR Pro |
I use 50/50 antifreeze after draining at end of season. Circulate it and park it. Good for -35. In spring, drain it and put it back in the jug and fill with water. A little bit of anti-freeze is left but there is zero rust. When you park your race engine where temps can hit -30 I don't want any regular water in anything. It is in a heated garage but I am not there, if the furnace fails I do not want to be looking for a block in May. For $15.00 it is the safest way IMO. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
I'm with Jok on this one. Over the years I've seen several busted heads and blocks that were "drained". I used to be a people person, but people ruined that. | |||
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DRR Pro |
Yup ........ I'm an anti freeze guy myself | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
x4. Drain the radiator, then fill with 2-3 gallons of pure antifreeze and circulate for a while. Tony Leonard | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
I'm ordering these now. The pet****s in my block are junk light material like what's on a radiator. Now that the motor is all the way out its time to see if they break! | |||
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DRR Trophy |
I’m with the antifreeze gang, its cheap and foolproof, can be drained and used again each season, essentially lasting forever. It also minimizes to virtually eliminates any corrosion development. I would use caution on using pure antifreeze though, believe it or not, 50/50 is much safer than pure (-34º vs ~-5º). The trace amounts left in the system when going back to racing is of non-issue and probably helps…… Jerry Kathe | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Drain all the water, then a gallon of RV antifreeze into the thermostat housing to protect the bottom of the block. Flush it out in the spring and ready to go. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Thanks for the replies. Like mentioned above, it's kind of a PIA with a diaper and I have one. An elbow and cap sounds like a possibility. I put a brass elbow in and it points right at the pan because of the angle of the block. | |||
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DRR Pro |
I am a firm believer in putting at least 50-50 antifreeze back in the motor. Helps stop rust in the head bolt holes etc. | |||
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