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| DRR Trophy |
I'm getting my car repaired and thinking about going to a longer travel double adjustable strut instead of spending money going through my old single adjustable strange struts. Is there any negative to a long travel strut? Thanks in advance for the input. | ||
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| DRR Pro |
"Conventional wisdom" says that you want as little suspension travel as possible in a fast, four link chassis car. Could make an excessive wheelie situation worse? More variables in vehicle reaction time? Upgrade to a double adjustable front strut, with your history and performance level I'd say yes, but wouldn't try to reinvent your total setup. "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375 | |||
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| DRR Pro |
...Not unless you are going small tire / no prep / lil' gangster racing... "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375 | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
I still really like the 32x14 radial. But it likes the front wheels up to work well. Was thinking long travel may allow more transfer of weight without having to carry the front tires 12" off the ground. I also don't want to make it not work on a bias tire. The car is getting the entire front clip replaced so now is the time to make any changes I may want. | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
Are you re-installing the wheelie bars? | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
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| DRR Sportsman |
Since i crashed my camaro i am going to be redoing my car from the 4 link brackets foward. My car was mustang 2 front a arms. I am going to strut my front suspension and my chassis guy wants to go back with a long travel strut. Not sure why but that is what he wants. I guess he wants to get the same travel i had with my a arms. But i had my a arms limited to 1 1/2 lift. I wish i could give you some info on how it works but i aint there yet. I bought strange double adjustable struts with brakes. I will tell you that the price difference is substantial being the long strut is more expensive. I guess i will see. My car worked really good before i just hope it will be just as good after. I will be going from a pretty decent small block to a good big block and hope to pick up 3 or 4 tenths in the 1/8. Dont know if that will make a difference in how it works. I am strictly going to super street race this car and want to go from low 140’s to mid 150’s in the 1/4. ep | |||
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DRR S/Pro![]() |
The advantage of having them are the options they offer in travel range. The dis-advantage is how ugly they look when your front end is off. | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
I catn see how along travel strut is going to help with a super class car FWIW. The fact you had the a arm limited to 1 1/2" would make me lean toward a standard strut in the first place. Be interested to see where you end up, a mid 150MPH car in S/ST is making some steam and isn't going to need or want all that travel. "I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know." Marcus Tullius Cicero | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
Nothing i have is going to win best appearing so i dont care what they look like curtis as long as it works. ep | |||
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DRR S/Pro![]() |
Same. I just see the no prep guys running with not front end and think it looks dumb with those 3' long springs. JMO Not really putting them down at a useful tool or anyone who uses them. | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
Based on THIS prior post and wanting to continue with radials, consider getting the rear of the car to separate much more at launch and down track. My car rear on same 32x14 but bias and 1 second slower separates more at launch and down track than what you’ve posted prior. Adjustable front suspension travel limiters would allow for best set-up. | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
I cant say i disagree Al. I questioned it myself but i dont build cars so i stay in my lane. ep | |||
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DRR S/Pro![]() |
Your car, your money. Ask your builder why and explain to you how you will benefit from long travel struts. Like others have said, does not seem necessary for .90 racing and may create huge wheel stands if not controlled properly | |||
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