Hello,

Looking at potentially trying my hand at some index racing. I would need to slow the car down to 6.9/7.0s from 6.20s/6.30s

I am looking for ideas on the beat ways to accomplish that without a throttle stop.

Thanks in advance.

Timing, short shifting, converter. Im sure others will chime in. In my case I back the timing up, jet changes and short shift. Works for me. Also, learn to drive the strip.

This is as slow (et) as I could go shifting to high gear 3 tenths after trans brake release, simultaneously pulling 14 degrees timing.

This was for 6.50 index .370 pro tree.

You could add ballast and use a grid to pull timing and shift 3 tenths after TB release because most likely you'll be on a 5 tenths pro tree 7.0 index. Even carrying ballast you should be double O easily, with quite a bit of numbers in delay box.

If it's 400 pro tree, then you have problems, you won't be able to add ballast and still have a good light.

400 pro tree isn't a easy task for cars like ours. 7.00 index should be 500 pro tree though.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

7-8 tents is a lot to kill, Bill. Without a throttle stop, you are most likely gonna need some form of "restrictor plate" or a smaller carb.
I only had a half-second to kill, and I tried 20* of timing, short shifting at 5K, high gear start, none of that got me where I needed to be, and made the car a turd. (I didn't try adding weight). I swapped the Dominator for an 850, using an adapter, and that was far more effective. Did knock my MPH down a bunch too, though.

Weight

Make a set up to use barbell weights in trunk
5/10/20/25/50 lb weights

I tried to get my 11.0 car down to 11.60 with timing, shifting, etc. It was inconsistent as
he!!. The only way I got to 11.59 was to use a mechanical screw stop on the linkage. It worked well for me.

Less weight you carry the better, you want the mph. If you have 6, 8, 10 mph and .20, .30, .40 on the tree on everyone, it doesn't look like drag racing. If you got the mph and tree, just hold a tenth or more if you want.

Do like Brad Young did in his 5.90 Vega running the 7.0 class, he would drive it out to about 300 feet and park it and wait for the other car then wheel race him to the lights, he has won more than one 7.0 index race doing that. 7.0 is huge at XRP, I have seen it pay $3500 to win. Not bad for a 1 night event

Being slow in the front half works pretty good, you get a guy that's slick, he'll spray up to you parked waiting for him, then it's who stops best wins, he'll win that, because he's the only to know. I think you gotta be slow in the front half to control the race.

Slow in the front half holding a tenth or more, take less stripe than you win the tree by, your win light comes on 100% of the time.

5.90 was all the rage a few years ago of a .400 pro tree... IT was really fun i used steel plates to slow the car down.

I think a restricted plate is going to be the way to go. Index racing can be addictive.

Granted 99% will run a restrictor plate, but that's more reason not to, especially if you have 6, 8, 10 mph on the guy with a plate, and you can pace them down the track, using their's.

If you got dragsters breathing down your neck, with 40 mph on ya, yeah, the name of the game is to go dead on.

On the other hand if you have the mph, the name of the game is to take less stripe than you won the tree by.

If I were banjo, I'd be holding at least a tent, to a tent and a half.

I'd be Ripping the daylights out of em!!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

Quiet mufflers and tune it

My guess, banjo is gonna be uncapped from hell, ripping the living daylights out of em.

I slowed mine down from 10.70 1/4 to 11.50 by lower launch RPM, 50lbs weight and the biggest one disconnected the secondaries - still had to use the throttle limiting bolt too.

Back in 2010 my car was a 10.0x et at the time and I was running a 10.50 class that did not allow TS’s. Here’s what I did that worked really great.

I have a large shift light that I use for low oil pressure that’s mounted on top of the dash in front of the steering wheel. It’s a negative trigger off of a low pressure switch.

I wired the MSD 75301 Output Switch (negative output) to the low oil pressure light and used the timer output to turn ON just before the 1/8 mile for the desired amount of time I needed to slow the car which was about 1.25 seconds. When the light went ON I stepped off the gas pedal. And when it turned OFF I slammed the pedal back to the floor. Because I had it set up to activate just as I made the 1/8 mile marker I was ready for the light to come on.

There was nothing in the rules that said it wasn’t legal to do this. The other racers were mad about my method and by the 4th race of a 6 race event they created a rule that didn’t allow this. Something like… “No Self-Guided activation devices after the starting line”.

So I put my 7531 in and road the dots for the first 300’ and it worked just as well. Nothing in the rules said it wasn’t legal. Yep, they were still mad.

Why 7.00? When you fit 6.50 better? Your car will go alright on a 400 Pro Tree staged shallow.

How many numbers do you run in the delay box? If you run 1085 delay, you can be triple zero on 400 P T

That's a good 6.50 index car you have, perfect.

I have between 1.060 and 1.080 in my box. The xtreme event flyers on show a 5.80 and 7.0 index and the other track runs a 6.0 and a 7.0 class.

Maybe a 200-300 shot will get me playing in the faster classes.

Those events pay good, just seems to slow the car down to 7.0 consistently is going to be tough.

quote:

Originally posted by banjo:
I have between 1.060 and 1.080 in my box. The xtreme event flyers on show a 5.80 and 7.0 index and the other track runs a 6.0 and a 7.0 class.

Maybe a 200-300 shot will get me playing in the faster classes.

Those events pay good, just seems to slow the car down to 7.0 consistently is going to be tough.

You could do nothing to your car and be plenty competive with a good rt. You're gonna be red on a 500 Pro Tree if you run 1060 to 1080 so I hope you can lower your leave rpm quite a bit, that will fix the red light.

Now how you could be competitive without doing anything to your car is.... Let go double 0, soon as you let go push the shifter into high. The guy in the other lane will drive away from you a bit, but not for long before your high gear steam gets going. At that point just pace the guy, take as little as possible stripe. It don't matter how far over or under your opponent is, if you take less stripe than you won the tree by , your win light comes on 100% of the time.

You gotta win the tree though.

Let go double 0, shift to high as fast as you can, stay right next to the guy in the other lane, if he dives, you dive barely ahead, take as little as possible. It don't matter how far over or under he is, your win light will come on if you take less stripe than you won the tree by, 100% of the time.

All ya gotta do. You'll make it look way too easy, trust me.

This right here is all ya gotta do.