Well over 1,000 runs on mine. Mild Pontiac, shift at 6,000 maybe 650HP.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:


Curios, what block manufacture, what size heads and what lashed lift intake/ exhaust values , what max rpm ??

WP Motown block
Brodix T1 227
Engine built in 2005. Freshened in '18.
I lash .017 I and E. I think the specs are around .023 per the cam card. I would have to double check that.
Ignition shifts at 6,600 so it shifts by around 6,800
Max 1/4 rpm is 7,200 but I very rarely run 1/4. I think it's around 6,700 in the 1/8.
Runs around 6.30-6.40 1/8 at 3,150.
Best 6.19 at Rockingham and 6.27 at Atlanta.

Our work horse 434 sbc has 1,100 + runs & hasn't been out of the car since 2008. It gets new valve springs & lifters every 2 years. Other than that it gets the usual quality maintenance. The motor only makes 630 hp & we shift 6,000-6,600 depending on configuration. It goes thru the traps between 7,000-7,500. It runs on 100 octane pump gas, C12 or welfare fuel. It all depends on our mood.

The motor is getting ready to come out in the next month or two. I'm curious how it will look. It will be totally refreshed/reconfigured for around 1,000 hp.

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:
Our work horse 434 sbc has 1,100 + runs & hasn't been out of the car since 2008. It gets new valve springs & lifters every 2 years. Other than that it gets the usual quality maintenance. The motor only makes 630 hp & we shift 6,000-6,600 depending on configuration. It goes thru the traps between 7,000-7,500. It runs on 100 octane pump gas, C12 or welfare fuel. It all depends on our mood.

The motor is getting ready to come out in the next month or two. I'm curious how it will look. It will be totally refreshed/reconfigured for around 1,000 hp.

That is fantastic. I read that as a good maintenance program and a bottom end can really last.

Good luck on the upgrade!! Would love to hear the details on the 1000hp configuration. Hair dryers? Dental gas? What's the plan.

quote:

Originally posted by BG7X77:

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:
Our work horse 434 sbc has 1,100 + runs & hasn't been out of the car since 2008. It gets new valve springs & lifters every 2 years. Other than that it gets the usual quality maintenance. The motor only makes 630 hp & we shift 6,000-6,600 depending on configuration. It goes thru the traps between 7,000-7,500. It runs on 100 octane pump gas, C12 or welfare fuel. It all depends on our mood.

The motor is getting ready to come out in the next month or two. I'm curious how it will look. It will be totally refreshed/reconfigured for around 1,000 hp.

That is fantastic. I read that as a good maintenance program and a bottom end can really last.

Good luck on the upgrade!! Would love to hear the details on the 1000hp configuration. Hair dryers? Dental gas? What's the plan.

The motor has all the overkill good parts for only 630hp, like 3/8" pushrods & T&D rocker shafts to name a few.

The plan is one of them belt driven hair dryers (ProCharger). I talked a little bit about it in the Updating Our Racing Program thread. I plan on more information when I pull the motor & trans for upgrades soon.

My 3250 lb 55 chev's zz4 350 with a small weiand 142 blower on it has 1161 passes at the end of 2020 season. It did shame me into rolling rods and mains in it 87 passes ago, which by the way it didnt need after micing them after the fact.leak down, 95-98%, compression still at 140 on all 8. Car will run 11.30's all out, but have had it throttle stopped the last three seasons to 12.0x to run the sportsman class. It is deadly at 7.52x in the 8th, not so much down track when the wind, temp and the frontal area of a barn come into play. I run valvoline 20/50 racing oil for about 25 passes between changes and I paint strain the old oil a couple times a year, just to look for little stuff.

quote:

Originally posted by qtrrcr:
My 3250 lb 55 chev's zz4 350 with a small weiand 142 blower on it has 1161 passes at the end of 2020 season. It did shame me into rolling rods and mains in it 87 passes ago, which by the way it didnt need after micing them after the fact.leak down, 95-98%, compression still at 140 on all 8. Car will run 11.30's all out, but have had it throttle stopped the last three seasons to 12.0x to run the sportsman class. It is deadly at 7.52x in the 8th, not so much down track when the wind, temp and the frontal area of a barn come into play. I run valvoline 20/50 racing oil for about 25 passes between changes and I paint strain the old oil a couple times a year, just to look for little stuff.

Scott,

I guess I need to get out more often. I had no idea you had a mini blower in the 55. Regardless, it seems to work well for you!

Throttle stop; I might have to figure out one with the ProCharger, but haven't decided yet.

My engine man pulls my motor and freshens it up at about 300 passes...I run a very mild 496 on 93 pump gas...car weighs 3240 with me in it...runs 6.50's in the 1/8...the glide shifts at 6200 and I go through the traps at around 65-6600...it is a roller motor...

quote:

Originally posted by Bad News:
Best was 860+ runs on a 598 dry sump engine. 74-7600 rom, mid 1050 hp
Rebuilt lifters at 350 or so runs, valve springs 400 or so.
Back then 15/40 rotella and probably 40 runs on a change, depending on fuel contamination smell.
Leak was always good after a race usually no more than 10-12%
Rod bolt broke, but all the bearings looked great

Interesting data point. I keep track of my brother's rotating group cycles in order to estimate when to replace parts. So far, he hasn't made a million cycles on anything before stuff breaks.
My best estimations are to replace crank and rods somewhere between 500,000-750,000 cycles which is around 750-800 laps. He broke the crank at around 820 laps which was around 750K cycles. This crank might have had a defect or was injured but magnafluxing didn't ever find it.
I crudely estimate your engine above to have around 950,000+ cycles so my spidey sense tells me, for my brother's engine, to replace the rotating group between 750K - 950K cycles. This is all on a 572-598" engine with around 950 - 1000hp.
Big, heavy intake valves are next on the lifetime estimation list. I do know they struggle to go 1000 laps on his engine.

quote:

Originally posted by BG7X77:
There are a lot of good technical papers on metal fatigue online that goes into the mechanical and metallurgical science of this. Sometimes I wish I would have been a metallurgist. There are some good failure analysis papers on this as well. Oxygen rich inclusions, hydrogen embrittlement, cyclic loading limit failure graphs. Pretty technical but interesting.

I guess when the rods or crank breaks nobody give a chit about any of that just that their car is broke and now they have to fix it. I do think the different approaches are interesting. Run it till it breaks......change this but not that....check this check that put it back together. Good cost analysis problem. Maybe there is a NDT market for bracket engines I should explore....UT, Mag particle, etc.....lol.

I'm not familiar with UT NDT but I'm a huge proponent of X-Ray inspection of cast iron and steel parts. It's found many issues relating to poor base material when I put this inspection on the prints. It's also useful to find out the inner workings of mufflers and such.

Bryan, yes, I put it on the sbc a few years ago in the 55. I put that engine in the luv when I put the 496 in the 55. When I decided to run only sportsman I couldnt slow the 496 down enough, so I put a 383 in the luv and put the 350 back in the 55. I am just using the button type TS that bolts to the base of the carb. I have it set to where only the primaries open so I can hit the 12.0 mark.

X Ray (RF) is a great method and has some advantages. I have spoken to the gentlemen who runs our x ray lab, but have not been intimately involved. Obviously you have to deal with the safety factor of x ray exposure. It is expensive too, it can see both surface and subsurface indications which is a plus, it takes a trained eye to interpret results, and it is limited in pinpointing the depth of indications from what I have been told. UT (ultrasonic testing) has a tough time with near surface but there are methods that help with this. As it sounds it incurs a ultrasonic sound wave at the parts coupled with a medium, gel for handheld or immersion type testing submerged in water. Again training is critical and it isnt something you learn in a day. It can pretty accurately characterize depth and size. As with most things, no magic bullet, that is why there are multiple NDT methods to handle the limitations of each application and cost considerations. NDT is a huge field and I am not an expert by any means.

Do you do XRay on a certain product/s?

Interesting thread.

I took my spare which is a SHP short block to a builder (not original builder) two weeks ago for freshening. This is a 388 (4.125 x 3.625) with 14 -1 on methanol. 4 yrs racing with just over 500 passes. They called today and being 20 minutes away I went down to have a look.

He showed me the block, main and rod bearings, pistons, cam and lifters. He recommended running this combination 1000 runs (2x longer) before rebuilding next time. This is using Penn Grade (Brad Penn) oil.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:
Interesting thread.

I took my spare which is a SHP short block to a builder (not original builder) two weeks ago for freshening. This is a 388 (4.125 x 3.625) with 14 -1 on methanol. 4 yrs racing with just over 500 passes. They called today and being 20 minutes away I went down to have a look.

He showed me the block, main and rod bearings, pistons, cam and lifters. He recommended running this combination 1000 runs (2x longer) before rebuilding next time. This is using Penn Grade (Brad Penn) oil.

Very nice!

My last one went 500 licks and never changed the PAC valve springs.

I'm hoping the current piece will exceed 500. Even though I kept a sharp eye on the valve springs (Inspections, one of those Moroso spring checkers, and records for each spring) I think I got lucky with them. I won't do that again.

I use the better ISKY bushing lifters, EZX I think. Jesel Sportsman rocker system, 7/16 x .135 wall pushrods and a shelf Bullet 278/284 110 .775 with 1.8 rockers.

I don't have the best parts money can buy but, I use the best parts I can afford.