Would you want an oil that mixes with methanol or an oil that separates from methanol when you're using methanol as a fuel?
I mixed a couple of oils I had with some methanol and shook them up in a jar to see what they did. One did separate out quickly while the others stayed mixed.

Get schaeffers and dont look back... the oil I use is designed to run with alky,

Methanol boils at 148.5* . What difference would it make as long as you are able to get the sustained oil temp over the boiling point?

I’ve used BP, Schaeffers prior and 2024 switched to Maxima only because I wanted full synthetic.

condensation is the bigger issue imo

I run Amsoil Dominator Racing oil. Never an issue...

Better to keep alky out of the crankcase

I always have at least a trace of fuel in my oil samples that I send out periodically. But I’m using both methanol and 93 octane so I’m not sure which one it is. It’s always less than what the lab considers an issue….. so it’s not an issue.

Since I switched to EFI methanol in 2021, I use less fuel than with MFI.

I agree with rusty that condensation is more an issue and there’s never been water% in my oil samples to date.

Is rather have compromised oil on my bearings than a quick shot of straight methanol.

quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:
Is rather have compromised oil on my bearings than a quick shot of straight methanol.

Tony, I thought the same.

I had great luck with Penn Grade.........

Those that recommend a certain oil does that oil mix with methanol and keep is suspended or does it separate easily?

i didnt recommend an oil but mine does turn milky with moisture if my moisture control is working well it will turn brown with alky after many runs depending on how rich i am.

Unless we are talking about some crazy all out blown alky combo or something, make sure your tune up is right, run some kind of adequate vacuum pump and get the engine up to a decent operating temperature so that you keep the stuff out of the oil in the first place. I have been running a Ron's Terminator for 20 years, I change my oil every 60-ish runs and just took my motor apart out of guilt after 475 runs (584" BBC in a dragster going 4.50's) and everything looked perfect. I use Amsoil but I can't understand why anyone would not use a synthetic oil in this day and age. I don't know what happens when alcohol get in it but I try to make sure that doesn't happen in the first place because whether it mixes, separates or turns to pixie dust I'm sure the result isn't good!

A word of wisdom from my experience though about a full synthetic. This is specific to Driven full synthetic though. I tried their XP9 and their oil does not leave much of a film after parts sit. I expect that it will make more power just from the oil not clinging to parts as much but it did allow things to rust really bad. I was getting rust on my valve train parts and springs. Switched to the GP-1 semi-synthetic and problems went away. Lesson learned for me. Your results may vary.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
A word of wisdom from my experience though about a full synthetic. This is specific to Driven full synthetic though. I tried their XP9 and their oil does not leave much of a film after parts sit. I expect that it will make more power just from the oil not clinging to parts as much but it did allow things to rust really bad. I was getting rust on my valve train parts and springs. Switched to the GP-1 semi-synthetic and problems went away. Lesson learned for me. Your results may vary.

I just switched to full synthetic racing oil this year and will have to watch for what you stated… good to be aware of.

Is this rust something that happens sitting between weekend race events, or from sitting over winter months?

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
A word of wisdom from my experience though about a full synthetic. This is specific to Driven full synthetic though. I tried their XP9 and their oil does not leave much of a film after parts sit. I expect that it will make more power just from the oil not clinging to parts as much but it did allow things to rust really bad. I was getting rust on my valve train parts and springs. Switched to the GP-1 semi-synthetic and problems went away. Lesson learned for me. Your results may vary.

I just switched to full synthetic racing oil this year and will have to watch for what you stated… good to be aware of.

Is this rust something that happens sitting between weekend race events, or from sitting over winter months?

Between races, which time would vary a week or 3 weeks. Also I'm not saying it will happen with all oils. Only my experience with the Driven full synthetic.

G,day Curtis,
Have seen exactly the same thing with a couple of other oils, ulx110 was one of them that appeared to vanish when left for a while.
Would see corrosion starting to form on the steel shaft rocker stands
The old school semi syn Brad penn was great, I use the driven semi syn gp1 and it is great in my book.
I did a bit of a redneck test with a selection of oils on some brake cleaned black bolts in a drilled piece of alloy plate sitting outside under the car port on my trailer for a month, they got a bit of spray from the sprinkler, it did rain a couple of times also, they weren't in the rain directly.
Took photos of them as time progressed, the photos showed exactly what i saw in the engine.
for me with a methanol engine corrosion resistance is one of the important factors also.
Cheers

How many here have sent out an oil sample after doing oil change to see what is in the oil? The only time I sample oil now is if I switch oil brands or suspect a possible problem.

My sbc will make 8 passes on 5 gal of methanol starting in staging and returning to pit parking. I drive to staging on 93 octane heating the engine to 170 and return on gas the last run of day heating well into the 180’s and maintaining for a short period.

I’ve never seen condensation in the engine when checking the valves the following day/s after a race. No water in oil samples, ever. The only place I have water condensation is at the bottom end of the lines attached to EVAC under the car. Removing the line from the EVAC valve the day after a race there is a tablespoon at most of water in the line.

G,day Mark,
I only sample oil now if i change brands or am looking to change brands.
Tune up is good and looks no different than when running on petrol.
I cut and inspect the filter after every meeting.
I don't run a vac pump only breathers, i only see some moisture under the valve covers if i haven't got it properly hot when i drive it off the trailer and put it away.
I pull the breathers out now, that helps heaps
Cheers
Paul

Paul, it sounds like you have a pretty good program going.