I picked up a 2010 Silverado 2500. PO had the rear tires at 80 psi, which is miserable in Illinois in the winter with no load. So I lowered the rears to 48 which matched the fronts. Now the tmps wants me to add air to the rears. It didn't object to the fronts being at 48.

On my 2016 I keep the fronts at 48 and the rears at 55 and the light stays off. I believe if it drops below 50 in the rear the light kicks on.

Ok great to know! Thank you!

If that don't work you can use a good scan tool to relearn them to a lower pressure. Its in the remote control door lock receiver.

All right thank you!

Why not inflate them to what it says on the door sticker?

quote:

Originally posted by Ten5TireRacer:
Why not inflate them to what it says on the door sticker?

For one instance my truck came with a P rated tire which the sticker calls for 35 in front and 37 in rear and I replaced them with LT rated tire which manufacturer recommended 47 in all of them. Just showing one instance where they don’t match up.

quote:

Originally posted by Ten5TireRacer:
Why not inflate them to what it says on the door sticker?

The proper air pressure depends on the tire and the load. All winter I run around in this thing empty. No way it needs full pressure on E rated tires.

Factory tire size air pressure

Front 60 psi
Rear 76 psi

I bought this new with 6 miles on it in 2008 when GM was going bankrupt, CHEAP. Just turned 80,000 miles. Great trucks will rip a trailer down the highway. I just rotated the tires and it needed TMPS valve stem. When one goes out it takes the system out. I can't imagine running the air pressure at 48psi

The desired pressures can be changed with a GM scan tool but when you raise the pressure for towing the light would be back on. I used to know the exact number when I worked at a GM dealer, but the light comes on at something like 15% below the desired pressure or 25% above. I don't know if it's possible to change the desired pressure with a bartec, or other aftermarket scan tool or not.

Best thing you can do for that truck for starters is rebuild fuel filter receiver (Head assembly) and put a CAT fuel filter conversion kit on it.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

quote:

Originally posted by Woody B:
The desired pressures can be changed with a GM scan tool but when you raise the pressure for towing the light would be back on. I used to know the exact number when I worked at a GM dealer, but the light comes on at something like 15% below the desired pressure or 25% above. I don't know if it's possible to change the desired pressure with a bartec, or other aftermarket scan tool or not.

I have had mine up to 60 lbs and light never came on and it calls for 35 front 37 rear from factory. My truck is a 2014 1/2 ton Chevy with max trailer package if it matters.

quote:

Originally posted by green1:

quote:

Originally posted by Woody B:
The desired pressures can be changed with a GM scan tool but when you raise the pressure for towing the light would be back on. I used to know the exact number when I worked at a GM dealer, but the light comes on at something like 15% below the desired pressure or 25% above. I don't know if it's possible to change the desired pressure with a bartec, or other aftermarket scan tool or not.

I have had mine up to 60 lbs and light never came on and it calls for 35 front 37 rear from factory. My truck is a 2014 1/2 ton Chevy with max trailer package if it matters.

The 2014 is a newer platform than the OP's truck. They eliminated the light coming on with high pressure.

Interesting that they had a high pressure alert.

No Dmax for me. This is a 6.0L.

quote:

Originally posted by Woody B:

quote:

Originally posted by green1:

quote:

Originally posted by Woody B:
The desired pressures can be changed with a GM scan tool but when you raise the pressure for towing the light would be back on. I used to know the exact number when I worked at a GM dealer, but the light comes on at something like 15% below the desired pressure or 25% above. I don't know if it's possible to change the desired pressure with a bartec, or other aftermarket scan tool or not.

I have had mine up to 60 lbs and light never came on and it calls for 35 front 37 rear from factory. My truck is a 2014 1/2 ton Chevy with max trailer package if it matters.

The 2014 is a newer platform than the OP's truck. They eliminated the light coming on with high pressure.

Thanks that’s good to know.

My 2002 Gas 6.0 2500 HD 4x4 crew cab the factory pressures were 55 Front, 80 PSI Rear.
But I always ran them lower in Winter or not towing. 50 in the fronts, rears at 70 PSI. Helped the ride a bunch, better traction in bad weather, and also more even tire wear. TPMS monitor never came on. Rotated them about every 7K miles, and got over 90,000 miles on 2 sets.

My '15 DMax is newer same truck, but with diesel engine. Specs are 60 Front, 75 Rear.
I've put 36K on it, and it seems to be wearing tires at the edges a bit, even with rotations, so I have been keeping it right about at spec.

The dmax has more weight on the front tires. The rear of a 3/4 ton unloaded isn't much differently loaded than the rear of a half ton unloaded. So being pushed to run 70 psi or more in the rear just ends up knocking the centers out of tires prematurely. IMO

Glad I don't have to deal with TPMS. And DEF, DPF, etc.

OK I'm going to have to do something. Either I put up with the low light during the winter, or change so it doesn't warn so high. And maybe I have to change come spring for towing again?

The traction stinks at 76 psi in the rear. It's riding up on the center of the tire, and in the snow and ice I could really use more than that. Plus, every bump upsets the tire and it loses traction.

Is there a procedure that can be used without a tool? Do tools like autotap address this?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Bucky,

quote:

Just showing one instance where they don’t match up.

The door sticker is only good for a like size and construction tire. You can imagine the design difference between run-flats and non. I've heard of cars going into limp mode due to TPMS issues (big brother is watching). May have been a total failure can't recall for sure.