^^^pathetic broke dyck loser who ain't got shyt, nor done shyt worth talking about and ain't got skills!

Says I'm "scared", of what? Bracket raced for over 30 years and made more passes on a dragstrip than most here including you, been launching with big wheelies for over 20 years and more important have won more bracket races including Super Pro in a footbrake car, more big $ races and more wally races including my first against a multiple time Super Pro track champion and one of the best in the northeast, yet you haven't won ONE big $ race nor Wally!

Meanwhile...

YOU are SCARED, still haven't posted your time slips from your duck pond and duck pond race and you never will because it will confirm everything I have stated and you know I'll rip you to shreds!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:

Get in your car & do it! Plain & Simple.... YOU CAN'T DO IT, BECAUSE YOU ARE A SCARED BALL - LESS LOSER!

2BKing

I'm dead-on with a zero RIGHT, you are a scared ball-less *****! No one cares about your past delusional BS racing. Stick to your Monkey...See...Monkey...Do Wanna-Be Headsets, Loser Boy!

Now, getting back to the thread topic. To calm the wheelie down I tightened the front shocks extension 3 clicks & it helped. I decided to use the launch retard for .60 into the run. This got me the results I wanted for now. In the future the plan is to turn off the launch retard & add more clicks to the front shocks extension.

2BKing

post every round time slip or STFU you scared little broke dyck biotch

Now, getting back to the thread topic. To calm the wheelie down I tightened the front shocks extension 3 clicks & it helped. I decided to use the launch retard for .60 into the run. This got me the results I wanted for now. In the future the plan is to turn off the launch retard & add more clicks to the front shocks extension.



2BKing

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:

quote:

Originally posted by double trouble:
Hey Brian, That is a nice new trailer you got and the dually is cool too. Yep, seen it with my own eyes.

Hey Ed, agree on a place and race each other. That will remove all doubt.
You might even become friends.

Dan,

You're as delusional as the Monkey...See...Monkey...Do...Headset Wearing Loser Boy! The "never will be" trailer was not parked behind my 2023 Chevy High Country Dually. Just messing with you Dan & for the #1 B1tch, he's WRONG as usual.

"race each other" As usual, she B1tches out & resorts to being a keyboard racer. How many times have you called me out Loser B1tch. Grow some balls, put your mentally fragile ego into the brain bucket & come get some. I'm willing to meet halfway: MN, IA, MO, AR & LA are about the halfway point. I've won a couple races in IA about 6 years ago. Never raced in the other states, Brainard MN is on my bucket list to race at.

Wait for it...... Chicken Little & Her Firechicken East Coast... Road... Circus... Banging on the Keyboard BS.

2BKing

Cleaning up another thread!

2BKing

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:
It's a B1TCH trying to slow this thing down to 10.00. I'm using my superior tuning & driving skills to get the job done, LOL!

Here’s what I did to run a 10.20 class when my car was 9.90. I programmed the shift light to turn ON at the 1/8 mile and stay on for a time period and then turn off. So at the 1/8 mile I lifted off the throttle when light came ON and matted it when the light turned OFF. It worked so well ( won first 2 events) that they implemented a rule that would not allow doing this.

Love it!!

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:
Car went from a previous 1.44 to a 1.34 60' yesterday with minor ECU changes.

How much boost are you presently using? Is boost amount desired programmable in the ECU? This is procharger?

btw.. my car doesn't do wheelies

The boost isn't programmable with the ECU for a ProCharger that I know of, for a turbo it's.

I'm leaving on 2.4 lbs. of boost @ 3,200 rpm. The problem I was having with the 1.44 60's, was the AFR spiking to 20 while on the 2-step. Then coming off the transbrake/limiter it would dump fuel & go to 9 for AFR. It literally made the car bog on the release. My band aide/fix was to add fuel in the 2 cells used during the limiter in open loop. Regardless, I must have made the right choices to pick-up the 60' that much. I haven't looked at the data logs yet, but I'm sure it's still lean spiking & going fat at the brake release.

I don't like chasing this new combo, by worrying about getting the car slowed down. This is only one race & next week's races; I can focus on going faster & getting consistency.

I prefer not to do wheelies on the full tree!

2BKing

Below is my change for the next outing with the car, tuning in the VE Table. The 2 cells circled are the ones being used on the 2-step set at 3,200 rpm in open loop. The motor is on 2.4 lbs. of boost in the 3,000 & 3,312 columns.

The original tune with the 1.44 60's was at 110 & 111 VE in the 2 cells. The only change I made to the cells was 113 for both & that netted the 1.34 60's.

The next outing will have both cells at 115 VE & hopefully it will lower the 60's even more. I'm sure it will not be as drastic as the first change. I'll keep increasing the VE until there's no gain in 60'.

Hopefully, the current launch retard & the shock settings will keep the car down. If not, I'll make changes to correct it.




2BKING

My first big wheel stand was from unexpected track prep and I didn't have the front shocks tight enough because I was used to running on a slick track. Put the car on the back bumper enough that there was track rubber on the charging posts. Got all 4 wheels off the ground. I peddled it coming down so it didn't hit too hard. Scuffed the engine belly pan (no room for a diaper). The only damaged I did was when it came down, I was using a distributor with a non adjustable collar and it wasn't deep enough. The pump drive shaft disengaged from the distributor gear. It was only a time trial run but I tripped the 60' timers with the back wheels then coasted down to the end of the track. When I saw the oil light was on, I shut the engine off. Scuffed a few bearings but didn't hurt anything. Having a 3 quart accumulator and idling down the track helped save the engine. Not knowing why I lost oil pressure at the time, I called it a day.

As per belly pan rules, they are not too strict. There's a spec stating length and width as per each engine and the sides need to be a "minimum" of 2" tall.

I made mine more in a Tee shape with the top of the tee facing forward. The sides of the pan at the front are only 2" but at the rear and rear sides, they are around 8" tall. The headers didn't allow me to make a wide pan at the rear but it only needs to be big enough to catch anything coming out of the engine. I've blown up a few engine over the years and I've always had a rod go out the pan and never out the side of the block. If the belly pan is tall enough and wide enough, it should catch anything trying to leave the engine and catch all the oil. I use a thin mesh screen to hold some absorbent pads (pig matting) in the pan. As for crossmember or steering linkage, you are allowed to modify the sides of the pan to allow those to pass through. Pretty simple really once you get an idea of how to mount everything.

I did blow up one engine while using the belly pan. Track cleanup was minimal. Most of the oil stayed in the belly pan and one of the cod rods was in there also.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: AlkyIROC,

I blew up a motor back around 2000 at the finish line 1/4 mile. That was before diapers were cheap and common. While I managed to save the car it was a mess on the track and a handful to get stopped.

Now I would not consider driving a car with out one, they are so cheap and really work well. Does not matter if it is diaper or pan you need something.

As for big wheelies here in Texas the track temps are often very hot 150* and that makes track slimy or gooey. As soon as sun got lower the track temp dropped a few degrees and that changed a lot.
My car would pick up reaction times and bigger wheelies.

When a track has extreme temps such as 43* or 150* it becomes harder to make the car work consistently. So I softened the hit some to make it work every where in any conditions as good as possible. Do I like big wheelies? He!! yes. But I like winning races more.

On a National event prepped track in perfect temps you could make most anything work. But try it on a hot, slimy track or cold track or even a poorly prepped track and it is a whole different story. Or can be so I like to set up for worst case scenario.

quote:

Originally posted by AlkyIROC:
My first big wheel stand was from unexpected track prep and I didn't have the front shocks tight enough because I was used to running on a slick track. Put the car on the back bumper enough that there was track rubber on the charging posts. Got all 4 wheels off the ground. I peddled it coming down so it didn't hit too hard. Scuffed the engine belly pan (no room for a diaper). The only damaged I did was when it came down, I was using a distributor with a non adjustable collar and it wasn't deep enough. The pump drive shaft disengaged from the distributor gear. It was only a time trial run but I tripped the 60' timers with the back wheels then coasted down to the end of the track. When I saw the oil light was on, I shut the engine off. Scuffed a few bearings but didn't hurt anything. Having a 3 quart accumulator and idling down the track helped save the engine. Not knowing why I lost oil pressure at the time, I called it a day.

As per belly pan rules, they are not too strict. There's a spec stating length and width as per each engine and the sides need to be a "minimum" of 2" tall.

This was my 1st big wheel stand without a wheelie/sissy bar. It was a nice smooth deal on the way up & the landing around the 60'. This car has never had a bar & probably never will.

I looked at the rules for the belly pan & it's not going to work on this car. I have room for a diaper & had one as mentioned earlier; need to get another one.

Thanks for sharing your experience!

2BKING, appreciates it.

Here are a couple of pictures of it before I extended the rear and rear sides and before I notched it for the steering linkage.





Damage to the pan after the big wheelie

"The belly pan must extend from framerail to framerail
and extend forward of the harmonic balancer and to the rear of
the engine block and must incorporate a minimum 2-inch-high
lip on all sides unless specified in Class Requirements."

AlkyI,

Thanks for providing the pics. I was & I'm still hung up on the headers. I see what you did there & I like it. But, it doesn't meet the framerail to framerail requirements. That being said, it doesn't make sense to put part of the hot header into the pan. I'm assuming you've had no issue with tech, but there's always the sticklers!

I'm going to look at the belly pan again & that's what the son wants to do/build. I don't want the hassle & want the diaper with no questions about the rules.

2BKING

So the rules say it should go from frame rail to frame rail. If that is not possible on your car then Diaper or possible raising sides way up on side of motor pan to catch oil if rods come out side of block. Maybe not "legal" but should help significantly if there ever is a failure.
If you are racing National NHRA events then you have to meet rules exactly but what most of us care about is getting good results and protecting your life and car. Sometimes you have to work with what you got.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
So the rules say it should go from frame rail to frame rail. If that is not possible on your car then Diaper or possible raising sides way up on side of motor pan to catch oil if rods come out side of block. Maybe not "legal" but should help significantly if there ever is a failure.
If you are racing National NHRA events then you have to meet rules exactly but what most of us care about is getting good results and protecting your life and car. Sometimes you have to work with what you got.

If the pan cannot be made legally for any NHRA race, it will not be made. The diaper will fit & is legal without question.

2BKING

I originally tried to fit a diaper and couldn't make it work. Much easier with a non production car or a smaller engine with lots of room around it. With stock front frame rails and large tube headers, I could not get a diaper to fit. As an example, I need to remove or loosen off a couple of RH header tubes just to get a starter bolt out and one tube is dimpled to clear the bolt. There isn't enough room to slide a diaper between the starter and the block and there is zero room to put a diaper between the header and the starter. Since a diaper was out of the question, the belly pan was a suitable option although it took a bit of designing to figure out how to make it work.

Since the third gen f-body is a unibody and the front "frame rails" are tapered inwards at the rear, my setup was just fine with tech. It kept the headers out of the belly pan and the higher sides could easily catch anything trying to leave the engine.

As the rules state, MINIMUM of 2" side. My front and front sides are 3" and although I don't have any pics that I can currently find, I believe the rear is at least 6" which means anything that wants to exit the engine through the oil pan will easily be captured in the belly pan. If something wants to window a Big M block then there is going to be a mess no matter what.

I had 4 days of wheelies at the Hangover Nationals in Tucson, AZ. I don't care for them, but they were liked by many. The second pic the back tire is at the 60'. I didn't think I was going to have this issue at a higher elevation track than Vegas.





2BKING

quote:

I had 4 days of wheelies at the Hangover Nationals in Tucson, AZ. I don't care for them

Consider using one of these with your ecu to control excessive front wheel height at launch.

Sensor

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

I had 4 days of wheelies at the Hangover Nationals in Tucson, AZ. I don't care for them

Consider using one of these with your ecu to control excessive front wheel height at launch.

Sensor

I need to re-phrase the wheelies I don't care for. I don't like the high trajectory & 60'+ wheelies. We had 2 or 3 wheelies like in the pics while we were tuning the front suspension. I'm trying to get full suspension travel back in the front suspension. When we added travel, we were also stiffening the extension on the front shocks. We have it now, so it pulls the wheels about a foot off the ground for about 30'.

I still have a little more travel left in the adjustments & will be adding that with a couple clicks stiffer on the front shock ext.

M&M,

Thanks for the sensor recommendation & will probably need to do something like this in the future when I start adding more power.

2BKING

Here's the time slip to go with the wheelie pics. I'm not sure how to interpret the 60' time or if I need to. Usually when I trip the 60' beam with the back tires, I get a low 1.40 60' times & I had one during this event.

I was making front suspension changes it seemed like every round. My best 60's were 1.28 - 1.29 & the wheelies were about 1' off the track for about 30'.