Not happening, Nobody takes this down track til I get some hard runs in it, Will chop up chassis and sale parts off before put someone else in seat.

Damn sure not putting anyone in a car I built that is having a handling issue, Besides dad gets mad everytime I put him in questionable situation, Happened time or two,LOL

Not like car has never gone straight or always had issue. it has made few lom 5.teens which is .2 to .3 where should be with small motor in it. New one is 60ci and 3:1 more compression should go little quicker.But got to get it back to where was before get more out of it or drop[ in bigger engine. well and new rods too.

Hell lil brother just wrecked his VW at Farmington month or so ago on 155 mph pass. Was becuase of chute picking ass end up when deployed.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
Not to start bunch of BS, but since being called out for not taking suggestions and rereading some of post.

Please explain how can not be alignment? I mean if tire is out to right it can not make car pull that way until steering input and then back after removed? Heck guess no reason to set alignment or question if tire not going to effect direction during run. Explain

Two reasons. 1. Because you said you have 1/16 toe in and it is easy to measure on a dragster and hard to screw it up. Actually between Zero and 1/4" will work as long as it is not toed out. 1/16" is good.
2. Because when the car is toed out it does not pull to one side, it will go one direction then go other way always looking for a guardrail. Same with slop in the steering. But it does not pull just to one direction.

You said problem was pulling to the right. I said that is chassis flex, (or bent), Rear steer or rear out of line. Or one rear tire larger diameter than other. Period. That is what causes it. Unless you have a four link then it could be adjustment.

Now if your steering is not correcting it that is another issue as myself and Dave have said there is not enough weight on front end.

I never said it was not responding to sterring input,I have stated it goes to center with steering but once go back to neutral it goes back right.Yes checked steering which is how found slop even thow barely feel at wheel.

I also did not say not possible need wioeght. I said I was over the weight I was told I needed in front by a fairly FED knowledgeable guy. By good amount too. According to video it is not pulling front end any on leave which would not expect as soft as tune was.

I think right now the little slop in shaft joint which can see at steering wheel but barley and is 3/8" free movement in front wheel out side measuredment is issue.

I suspected rearend or tire first thing, Only reason I measured rearend again and again, zfrom every diriction or combination of directions one can imagine. If 1/16 difference I can niot find it. Tires unless changing during run are about as even as one can get rollout wise.

Plan is to make next run with steering joint welded or splined shaft in place of cross bolt.Hard to believe a hole with bolt passing thru 3 pieces of tubing can have any movement,but it can, No holes are not sloppy. Will deal with if need to get cross bar out later. Stenght steering biox mount since does flex some under load. Weight crazed guy used little less material than should have when fabricating mount, Yea same guy buying almuinum lug nuts,rep-lacing all non stress but with aluminum(hey at $2 not lot more cost than heavey steel) making aluminum intake bolts with aluminum nuts.
If car does not go straight, Swap tires side to side. If goes left bang have problem. If goes right now something else. Then throw weights in front, 2 ways to do so, More fuel tank has another 2 gallon capacity. Also also 5 5lb bars drilled rerady to mount Behind battery since it is at fron as far as noxe will allow even built new nose piece to allow max movement.

Again I never dismissed ideas unless have checked them already. Spent friday night checking stuff till 3 AM after getting home from track at 11:00. So most of 4 hours with tape measure and seamstress tape. Hell even bolted laser to rear axles to check rear alignment with front of car. Did find 1/8 to 1/4 there over 20' and that depended in whre in chassis and how held tape. So feel very confident in alignment and center of rearend.

Since all thing rearend center issue. if have idea how to check other than following let me know and will check asap.
Motor plate to rear side to side.
Diaganol measured same
Pinion to frame
rotors to frame
Motor plate to wheel studs
Laser on axles to front end. laser to frame behind wheels and to spindles

Rollout only way I know is same pressure and tape around center of tire same as have doen thousand times. It is every round with A/Fuel and top/fuel.

AT least it is republicn car going right and not libertard going to left. Again a upside in everything.

Concerning the bolt in the steering shaft.
I assume this is a RED where a 2 piece shaft is used to facilitate easy removal when the use of a anti blowback stop is in play.

How to fix and/or improve the bolt slop.
1: Slide another piece of tubing over the hole section> weld.
Drill and ream for a just fits.

2: The bolt must not be something from the hope box. You do not want threads contacting the tubing, ever.
Either hunt down an appropriate NAS bolt
OR take a longer bolt and cut it so only the shank touches the tubing.

quote:

Originally posted by Dave Koehler:
You do not want threads contacting the tubing, ever.

This is gospel for every bolted connection on any race car. NAS bolts are your friend.

Only part different than Daves post, it is fed, It is in **** pir, I have bolted in cross memebr steering mounted, Allow to remove transmission from top, exactly same as every funny car ever had. I have main shaft with inner sleeve welded to one side other slides over it and then have sleeve ths slides over main shaft, one hole drilled thru all, I did cut a bolt to fit so no threads touching shaft and have a washer I have to use because shoulder comes thru outter sleeve. There are 4 u joints in shaft but not cheapys All connections at u joint are weleded except one,

Oh and as to easy to measure, Well would be if tank not in way of rear measurement but tanks is as far forward as could get without rack and pinion being in tank. Have to pull tankl to check.

I also checked king pins/spindles for any camber or caster differences, ,3* off on one or others.

Wow, that's a lot of joints. Not that there is anything wrong with that.

My 200" altered/funster has 1 between the steering box arm and the king pin steering arm. It's a male/female fork affair as it only needs to move in one direction.

Steering shaft in middle of coarse. Have to angle down and out then back along chassis to about 2/3s up then angl;e to center and then back to rack and pinion. Not much way around it
When had SPE box or funny car style with drag link ended up abpout ssamer amount of connects except all push pull not roatation motion. Hell used sas, preces in rack and pinion with some modification,