Up date on latest inpoutg. After 45 min call to N&P. Seems tires are more suspect. Scott sseems to thing way too big. Hell only 14" tire, but he the man in FED world. Me I am use to 16x16 34 to 36 tire.LOL

A correction on previous statement, Frontend weight is 447# instead of 370. Just checked again today.

So anyone in NC got 15 x 12 or 10 qitrh 3 33 tall tires that need run few shot. Willing to brake them in like we do with A/fule for fuel guys.Just trying to help out.LOL

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,

370 is more than enough and 447 is on heavy side.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Curly1:


Not according to Scott. When tiold him 370 he said little like, when told him 1800 at line(now doubting scales) He said 25% front was their target. He also said 1800 way heavey but then his **** was 1350 in line. Then he ****s light weight poarts and titainium.

Still not ruling out light bulb shorted out some. Next pass with go pro dummy hoilding wheel.If can find go pro.
Like said in PM will up date if find anything to be issue or if need new front end new tubing from scuffing my vehicle.LOL

You are getting sidetracked and lost. Your car will tell you what it is doing and what it needs.

Is your car pulling big wheelies? Hitting wheelie bar hard and upsetting chassis or even unloading rear tires? NO. So you have enough weight on front tires. Period. So forget about that for now.

Is your car darting from one side to the other? No then it is not slop in steering shaft or toe out.

The problem is your car is going to the Right. Listen to your car and think about it.

A Front Engine Dragster is a thing of beauty, they are a masterpiece on wheels when they are set up right. They can be a total blast to drive but they are very critical of weight distribution, Tire Selection and everything has to be straight.

Even when everything is right you do not drive them like a door car or even a rear engine four link dragster. In my Altered I work the brakes hard driving finish line, you do not do that in a FED as it will start car bouncing. Narrow chassis does not corner real good.

Still your car is telling you what it needs. If car is pushing to the right all way down the track then rear end is pointed to left , not centered or chassis bent. There are a few other very unlikely things it could be but I am not even going to mention them so we do not get sidetracked and chasing rainbows and rabbits.

When you see a truck going down the highway and the rear end of the truck is way out of line with the front do you think there is not enough weight on front wheels, Toe - in is not right or there is slop in the steering shaft?

https://preview.redd.it/ive-ne...a21f0d0e36c428255793
No, obviously the rear end is not straight or the chassis / Frame is bent. No difference here. Your car told you what is wrong.

seems not weight on nose, alignment or chassis issue.

Swapped tires last week. First shot going left no matter how mayn times told it no. Just for ****s(as in pants) and giggles swapped back smae **** but back to right. Tyried to borrom a set but none I could get had right pattern on BS close enough to A&T engineer to work. GThing is can not find andything that would say why. Rollout 3/8" difference. Nothing obvious but evidence says has to be in tires. They are 4 or 5 years old but very few runs. Compound tester even reads fairly close on the two. Again nothing points to reason why, but when every time swap sides car goes other direction i guess that is enough to say what and screw the reason at some point.

Looking for used set can borrow oe buy cheap. Need new . not happening for little while it seems.

Figured all replys and chat about I owed a end result finding.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
The toe in is not your problem if it is going to the right. Your rear end could be off center to the left a little or your rear end could have some rear steer in it. Left rear tire could have more rollout. The chassis could be flexing, there are several things it could be but toe in is not your problem here.

This is my very first post on this thread. What it amounts to is simple you are trying to get 100% of traction on rear end and tires at the hit so it is what is steering your car.

When the car is set up right if there was a way to could scale the car at the finish line under full power I bet there is not 50 Lbs of weight on front tires. Even at finish line under full power your rear end / tires are doing much of the driving.

As for tires being issue only suggestions was rollout and uderstand why. Also said not it since I had checked, Being top alcohol guy I check tires every weekend which use to be very run. Now if can tell why tires other than sidewalls which should not be due to low number runs,but about only thing can not figure how to check. Now if old age killed them I might bite on that one. Hell about 5 years old, but always inside and off ground for most part. I do know they are problem be it traction or just condition, They are bound for brush pile as soon as get another set or new setup all together. well maybe part of Christmas decorations this year.

Now to start another fire for the leave it alone crowd , May be removing front clip or heavily modifying for Diamond race cars style front suspenion after thanksgiving.

Yes this was changed and not ypos and probably have a few.LOL Figured issue I have with few of the statement and how precieved due to how stated not worth adressing since cause back and forth bs. Ednough to say over thinking you knowledge while discounting others is never good approach.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,

I always say check the cheap and easy stuff first. Quick story a guy was parked by me at the races, he starts up his car to warm it up and with in a few minutes it had a terrible knocking. He is screaming to his crew guy "Shut it off, it threw a rod." It really did sound bad. I went over there to talk to him and he is saying it threw number four rod or something like that.

I did not see a hole in the block and no smoke when he fired it up. I told him check your converter bolts and make sure they are not loose and hitting block. He starts yelling at me it threw the rods and he knows the converter bolts are tight. He is going to finish his back up motor and probably miss a few races. I said Okay but I always check cheap and easy stuff before you jump into something big and expensive on the slight chance it is not what you think it is. I go about my business getting my stuff ready and make first round of qualifying.

Later that day he is running again and I found out it was his converter bolts. He was ready to load up, go home and start changing motors.

I have seen people change transmissions when there was nothing wrong but shifter not right. Change motors only to find out later it was a bad ignition box, plug wire or something like that.

Always check cheap and simple stuff first. To me that is simple common sense. Same with your stuff, I knew the problem was in the REAR of the car and not alignment and tires are first thing I would have checked and an A-B-A test is best way.

That is why I swapped tires, added 1/8 toe in and 20 lbs oin nose. All toegeher I spend zero. Now removed weoight and 20lbs gone.LOL Finding issue cheap the medication not so much.LOL. Still goimng to work on getting narrower/taller tire and wheel combo. Trying to find some to test with before dropping big lload on them.

I did borrow a set of new scales and found out car lighter than had thought. Side to side not perfect but off in right way, Left front 20# heaver than right and frontend was 404 with full tank(2 gal over have to run) almost dead on 25% and my ass in seat wearing 20 suit and heavy helmet. So can drop another 20$ easy and driver could drop 15 to 20 too.LOL 20 less hanging over rear axle got to put little more on front right? Also less to plant rear tire. So maybe call it a wash there.