I know not a need in bracket racing but part of fun of the game for me and figure some others too.

Friction reduction rather chemistry, ceramic bearingss,windage and oil control. All work to point and some better than others.

Lets talk bearings. Ceramic is top end but made better with micro blue coating. Supposedly. Microblue coated steel better than plain steel byt 30% less friction reported. ceramic more costly by good amount. So how difference in standard steel,microblue coated steel,ceramic and micro blue coated ceramic? How much difference to see perfomance gain? Would cost be better if more demand for them,like auto industry?

I have been told by few that ceramic front wheel bearings worth .02 et. That alot for friction reduction IMO and not bad for 300 to 350 bucks with less strain on parts. Biggest thing I see in that is if carried front end 90% of track even less friction.LOL Seems axle bearings cost more and less gain for buck which seems odd since more weight on them to put more stress on them friction wise.

Amazing how much more it takes so spin a 9" Ford than it does 12 bolt gear set due to pinion position in relation to ring gear. One in center and one below center.
Simple chemical polish if ring a pinion reduces frictional drag 50%. Hell sounds almost like snake oil. I mean a all mocroblue coated ceramic bearing REm polished 12 bolt should be making power and broke a$$ at same time. At least one seems easy to believe.
Have seen a spool worth .10 over posi because of weight and friction drag of posi unit, well and just better for drag race car.

Anyone tried any of following or know of any improvement seen from switching to. Microblue coated steel or ceramic bearings. REM polished rearend gears. Hell if all above please do tell.If more pieces add them onto chat.Legts noit worry about cost since all know stupid to do for bracket car period and keep chat for fun not depressing.

I read something a while back about Tungsten Disulfide being an excellent friction reducing agent. Haven't spoke to anyone who may have experience/knowledge with it yet. I am curious about it though. A roundy-round guy was talking about how much difference it's made in his front end and how little wear he sees on his wheel bearings. I am curious about it. Your post here may be a good place for folks to chime in about it.

Takes 3 in/lbs to turn with tires.. Though trans as well. Front will spin and spin. Though brakes as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-RDe4qGfYU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b19Fv3Nresk

And don't forget the transmission!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkFStTZ-b0A

quote:

Originally posted by BTR69:
I read something a while back about Tungsten Disulfide being an excellent friction reducing agent. Haven't spoke to anyone who may have experience/knowledge with it yet. I am curious about it though. A roundy-round guy was talking about how much difference it's made in his front end and how little wear he sees on his wheel bearings. I am curious about it. Your post here may be a good place for folks to chime in about it.

I have been using this stuff for a few years now.
On steel, cylinders, bearings, pin holes, valve guides, pump parts, plastics. Basically anything that might touch and or needs to slide. I even burnish it in to coated parts like piston skirts.
Result? Basically everything has lasted longer.
I can't measure it so the slip factor is secondary for me but I assume there is something happening in that regard.

https://lowerfriction.com/dry-...isulfide-ws2-powder/

The Tungten disulfite looks interesting. I have probel with rocker adjusters kill cups and themselves, Long history with Hemi guys. Mainly intakes and have done bunch oiling mods to try to prevent, Lubing pushrood cups everytime going to fire engine if been sitting with few runs since last did them is PIA. Cost not cheap but them neither are adjusters at 12 bucks each and pushrod cups if can get them. 400 bucks for new pushrods not cherap either.

Found few products and going to order some and try on pushrods.

quote:

Originally posted by SpeierRacingHeads:
And don't forget the transmission!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkFStTZ-b0A

Nice video mind letting us in on what all done and used to get everything spinning so freely?

FYI, A lb of the powder goes a long way. I am still working off of a lb I bought 5 years ago.

A BBC rodeck block I have did not have through pushrod oiling when it was produced.
Pushrods were re-greased with EP grease every lap or would burn. It got worse as spring pressures went up over the years.
I finally gave up and bored the block for lifter oiling. This put an end to the burn issue, almost. This nano powder wasn't around at that time but I think it would have helped.

I always felt air cooled engines are under sever stress but survive fairly well.
I recently mixed in some powder with the oil in my garden tractor engine.
I won't know the results until it has an unscheduled disassembly but I did notice that it turns over easier after a couple of sessions. Even sounds a bit quieter which makes no sense.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Dave Koehler,

Most here know I will drill a hole in a hole to reomve weight of air.

Afvter runni9g some numbers and what you actually gain, Friction/drag reduction can be bigger bang for the buck than weight cutting. Both have a point where little return for buck. At same time how much it cost tocut enough weioght to drop .02? As said hve had a few swear they dropped .02 with ceramic front bearings. now with prices increase it may not be as big bang for buck. Damn they have gone up since got mine and now know why kept old bearings swapping back if selling wheels.

Looks like reducing friction in drivetrain would have to remove some of stress on engine, not that make live longer but can not hurt it.

WS2 or Tunsten disulfide looks to be some bada$$ stuff. Going to give shot for pushrods. Serious condieration of yanking engine down so can do teatment of pistons and few other parts. Looks like can be a coating and simple oil additive. Seems few ways to do a coating on parts.

Good to know goes long ways because sound like something I can see me using in all of powertrain in both race and street.

Hell cost minor compared to cost of parts it could save if as good as info I am finding is pointing to.

Highly suggest looking into May be best tech tip I have seen .

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,

Air cooled Lawn equipment engines suffer the worst conditions imaginable.
I thought that would be a good spot for experimentation.

I have a 2 cylinder Onan garden tractor with relatively high hours. I wanted to try mixing it with oil.

I started with a 14 grams per per qt and worked up to 28 grams per quart over a 3 season period.
I later learned speaking to the company that 28 grams per quart was their recommendation.
28.3 grams = 1 oz BTW.

No data log to prove anything but my ears and butt dyno say it runs smoother, quieter and spins over easier to start, even in winter.
I can't grasp how this would make the moving parts run quieter but there it is

Currently doing a rebuild/restore on another Onan tractor I own. I am burnishing this stuff into everything possible.

I won't know until an unscheduled disassembly happens if it is necessary to add during every oil change. I tend to think not from what I have seen on my race stuff. So, at the moment on the GT equipment I am doing the powder additive every other season.

For those interested in such things. I graduated to running synthetic 10w30 oil in these engines.
As long as it's tuned properly the oil stays cleaner longer than conventional straight weight. Again, visual feedback only.
YMMV

I wonder from time to time if this isn't the same stuff that Total Seal sells for ring break in.

Was reading on it being added to grease, got to wionbdering if itr would reduce drag enough to show same as ceramic bearings. Not says as mych reduction but enoygh that you could see it by just spiining wheel in same manor.

Seems can be applied with spray baster in cabinet, Can coat pistons and bearings same as sending them out to be coated, I know the commercial applied fritction coating do work, So Maybe same or close result DIY at home. Killo purified can be bought and juding from amoints you shlould be able to coat set of pistons, bearinf pusrod cupsm rocker adjuster balls and few other tings. Add some to rearend lube and do few sets of wheel bearings doe couple hundred bucks. While not chump change not far from it. Hell 8 bucks to 15 bucks for adjusters it would take long to cover cost. Lower drag oin wheels and engine parts is like icing on that cake a no charge.

Now if reduced drag enough on rotating wheel and rear end to see ior nmeasure hell it is like second slice of grandma;s homeomade chocolate cake.

I figure every time I stab throttle I gamble lot more money on it.