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DRR Trophy |
powerglide fluid getting hot around 210-225. has a cooler on it and a small fan , gets to where it wants to puke some fluis into the catch can. what fluid is everyone using and what would be causing this or a fix to get to where i can double car with no problems . but not been due to getting hot,,, | ||
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DRR Top Comp |
There is so many different variations of possible input shaft, stator tube combinations, you'd have to be a little more specific on what brand you have.If it's a new problem it could have spun the stator tube. A generic answer would be to check the line pressure at the servo and converter pressure at the out cooler line. Compare the "out" cooler line pressure to the "in" cooler line, maybe the cooler is clogged/restricted. Low line pressure sizzles transmissions prematurely as well, depending on power. If you put one of these on there, typically if everything in the transmission is in order, you should be able to manage temps, doubled. ![]() | |||
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DRR S/Pro![]() |
Run a good quality Synthetic fluid and unplug your temp guage. | |||
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DRR Pro![]() |
We use DeX 3 from o'Reilly...have seen temps above 270 while doubled after 6 rounds. Ultimately I unplugged the f'n gauge cuz it pisses me off more than helps me. We run a Jones pump and have a fan on converter after a few rounds doubled. | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
What we'd do is run the fan on the this trans cooler without the oil circulating until the cooler is stoned cool to the touch. Then circulate the cool oil from the cooler into the hot system putting hot oil back in the cooler and start over. 4 or 5 times and you watch the temp on the guage drop 30 - 40 degrees. ![]() | |||
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DRR Pro![]() |
We made the switch to an FTI converter and their new fluid and the trans temp hasn't gone above 140, use to get 200ish with a spragless T/S converter and regular ATF. Not sure if its the trans fluid or converter but the temp never gets hot ??? | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
That's funny Chris, as many rounds as you guys go I can see where it would be a problem. Put some Cat 10 Wt. and it will run cooler but will also tightened up your convertor a little.. | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Had a turbo 350 behind a sbc350 with a 3500 convertor, could run 2 classes, hot lapping, all day long, no problems. Put that trans behind a 383 with a 4500 convertor runs great 1st pass but sometimes slips 1st to 2nd during the hot lap pass.Check oil, not burnt, but thin as water running off the stick. Let it cool between runs, and it goes back up for next call and runs great 1st class. Does a have a small cooler on it.Running type f oil.Is there an additive to thicken the oil, or is the cooler to small for the extra power and smaller convertor, or ? Any thoughts? | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
A one way clutch (sprag) converter typically runs a little cooler. | |||
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DRR Sportsman![]() |
Proof the full synthetic works. Was running Type F in the dually. Left in the morning when cool out side. Came back after race done for the day. Mind you this a 4R100 in the truck. Was leaking out at a steady stream at the front pump seal when i got back at the shop. Outside temp out side @95 degrees. Temp gun stated 245-260. Went to full Synthetic Allison 295 fluid. Stays around 200. Good to go.Thought for sure i was going have to pull this monster out. Use it in the hot rod too. | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
Don't know of an add-on product but this might fill your needs. https://www.redlineoil.com/racing-atf-type-f Illegitimi non carborundum | |||
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DRR S/Pro![]() |
Is there a good synthetic that is available at the autoparts stores or Walmart? Anyone use Valvoline synthetic? https://www.valvoline.com/our-...fe-multi-vehicle-atf | |||
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DRR Pro![]() |
Best atf there out there is Transynd. I run it in my stuff, never an issue with fluid temps and as of right now I still don't run a cooler. Mark Goulette Owner/Driver of the Livin' The Dream Racing dragster www.livinthedreamracing.com "Speed kills but it's better than going slow!" Authorized Amsoil Retailer | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
No first hand knowledge but Lucas generally has good products and they support the sport. Illegitimi non carborundum | |||
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DRR Elite |
I think you ought to run a cooler. What you have said is that it runs good for one run, but during that run it gets hot and takes a long time to cool down between runs. You may be able to band-aid that with fluid to some extent. But the issue really that you are building heat and not getting rid of it. Get the biggest plate style cooler you can fit, with a fan on it, and most likely this problem will be gone. You may not even need to run the fan except later in rounds. Those who are claiming lower temps with the synthetic fluids: What do you attribute the reduction to? Are the synthetics much better at conducting heat and removing it? Is there that much friction in your transmission or converter? Foxtrot Juliet Bravo | |||
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DRR Sportsman![]() |
I'm running ATI Type F synthetic. It seems to stay more consistent during later rounds when the laps start coming hot and heavy. I tried JD hydro fluid for about 4 races. My car HATED it. I dont know how anyone can run that stuff with the experience I had with it. | |||
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DRR Sportsman![]() |
From a fluids engineer that worked for Allison. https://www.jglubricantservice...ormation%20Sheet.pdf | |||
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DRR Pro![]() |
Keep a gallon jug of ice water available when needed. It'll sizzle some when its good and hot but the water will cool it off. Oh , unplug the guage too. 4 X Track Champion ( 2 & 2 ) 2 X Run off Winner | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Bucky, thanks for the info. I do have a cooler on it, just not forced air, grill mounted. Probably a 6x15. cant fit a bigger one in, no more room between grill and radiator. I had a wild thought that if the convertor was swamping that might be a cause, but I dont know if thats possible. | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Would as real loose converter build heat like that | |||
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