So it seems I have to install a relay so as not to burn up another TB solenoid. Question what will work to keep 16v in to 12 v out?

Something doesn't seem right, I have been running 16v for at least a dozen years and never burned up a solenoid. Did you leave it on for a long time or something?

Joe

you don't need a friggin relay!!!

30 seconds on time is way too long. Especially with 16 volts.

Where`s Ed. We need to stop this shyt right now.

DO NOT USE A RELAY WITH A TB SOLENOID!!! Wire it direct, find the problem that's costing you the solenoid. It's a SYMPTOM of an electrical issue, NOT THE CAUSE.....as I mentioned in the other thread, I think you have a grounding issue or a low voltage issue causing this...

Do a voltage drop test on the wires to and from the solenoid. you should have no more than a .5 volt drop, TOTAL between the two. No, this doesn't mean that applied voltage won't drop, you're not checking available voltage either. You're measuring voltage drop on the wire itself.. Go from the beginning of the wire you have feeding it to the solenoid. In a perfect world you want to see the meter read zero. But, if there's any resistance in that part of the circuit, it will show up as a voltage. Do the same on the ground side, from the solenoid to the ground. Again, no more than .5v drop....and .5v TOTAL between the two.. I bet that's where you'll find the problem....

quote:

Originally posted by Alaskaracer:
DO NOT USE A RELAY WITH A TB SOLENOID!!! Wire it direct, find the problem that's costing you the solenoid. It's a SYMPTOM of an electrical issue, NOT THE CAUSE.....as I mentioned in the other thread, I think you have a grounding issue or a low voltage issue causing this...

Do a voltage drop test on the wires to and from the solenoid. you should have no more than a .5 volt drop, TOTAL between the two. No, this doesn't mean that applied voltage won't drop, you're not checking available voltage either. You're measuring voltage drop on the wire itself.. Go from the beginning of the wire you have feeding it to the solenoid. In a perfect world you want to see the meter read zero. But, if there's any resistance in that part of the circuit, it will show up as a voltage. Do the same on the ground side, from the solenoid to the ground. Again, no more than .5v drop....and .5v TOTAL between the two.. I bet that's where you'll find the problem....

If the issue it was from before today. Straight wired to battery. Was grounded to transmission and to chassis before. 12 gauge wire on both with wire going to transmission and another on top if it going to chassis.

Hot wire fro delay box to solenoid and had well over 16 at that wire. 16v battery with 18 volts showing. Would figure over 12v plenty. The problem was smoke out of the solenoid and hot as hell in few seconds. Problem now why,how to prevent and w/o testing new solenoid.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
30 seconds on time is way too long. Especially with 16 volts.

How I have seen some take almost that backing up. As stated the 30 is probably well over the actual did not have on a timer. I engaged TB took the caliper measured piston height and was smoking before done and jerked the wire off.

Also, this is an earlier design that came with VB and they have changed to another design. Got to be a reason

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
30 seconds on time is way too long. Especially with 16 volts.

How I have seen some take almost that backing up. As stated the 30 is probably well over the actual did not have on a timer. I engaged TB took the caliper measured piston height and was smoking before done and jerked the wire off.

Also, this is an earlier design that came with VB and they have changed to another design. Got to be a reason

How did the track respond to the smoke to you burning up a TB solenoid? I hope all's well!

quote:

Originally posted by 434 olds:
Where`s Ed. We need to stop this shyt right now.

Stop what.Asking a question about something the manufacturer suggested as the problem? Now you have the option of just skipping over and not clicking on a post.

While O do not agree it should be needed. If it eliminates problem I will ask about it.

As I told you in private message you do not need a relay. A relay is an electric switch to supply more power to a component. You do not need more power that would just burn it up faster.

Ok my bad for using their wording. Thought maybe a resistor of sorts. The question more looking for what others might have since was told others have used for cure , that had the same issue.

I have three relays and all are as stated for increasing power to whatever ever connected like NOS for two of these.

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
you don't need a friggin relay!!!

Exactly...

This here may be the absolute dumbest thread in the History of DRR and some of the responses are as well

Incredible stuff.....

so what is so dumb about checking info given by the manufacturer as to the problem and what others have done to correct it?

While agree very questionable. When first question from tech is how much voltage? Not how long was it on or how old is it, They must have had few issues with it or figured it was the cause.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
30 seconds on time is way too long. Especially with 16 volts.

How I have seen some take almost that backing up. As stated the 30 is probably well over the actual did not have on a timer. I engaged TB took the caliper measured piston height and was smoking before done and jerked the wire off.

Also, this is an earlier design that came with VB and they have changed to another design. Got to be a reason

Sorry, sometimes my thoughts don't make it all the way to my fingers. I was just thinking when you have a problem and it's overheating it would heat up faster on 16v, that's why 30 seconds is too long. LOL

CURTIS,

No problem. I am bad about thinking 5 lines ahead and try to make old abused fingers keep up. hence tipos and mispiiled stuff.LOL

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
As I told you in private message you do not need a relay. A relay is an electric switch to supply more power to a component. You do not need more power that would just burn it up faster.

No, a relay does not "supply more power". It supplies whatever level of power is connected to the relay's input.

quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
As I told you in private message you do not need a relay. A relay is an electric switch to supply more power to a component. You do not need more power that would just burn it up faster.

No, a relay does not "supply more power". It supplies whatever level of power is connected to the relay's input.

That is true sort of. A relay is designed to switch to a higher current or power. If you are using same power then no need for a relay at all?

We are back to what I said before I do not think he needs a relay. I believe there is another issue.

I run dedenbear delay boxes so my comment here may not apply to all the other brands...

My delay box has relays built into it, there's no reason to run an additional relay between the wire from the delay box to the TB solenoid assuming you have a big heavy gage wire sending power from the battery directly to the delay box. If you don't have a big wire feeding delay box put one and connect the other end of it to the switched 16V feed to the car.

16V will not kill a TB solenoid. 30 seconds is a long time, even if i'm taking a long time backing up, i'm not on the button the entire time. They get hot, a solenoid by design is a direct short. My advise here is to get a new solenoid. If its a PG TB solenoid there are many to chose from.

Ground everything. Block to chassis, chassis to battery, trans case to chassis, solenoid to chassis. Should be easy to accomplish if it fixes the issue, remove one at a time till problem comes back, then you have found the one that's needed leave it on there and remove the rest.

Curly is right, a relay is designed to deliver higher CURRENT to the device you are trying to supply power to. It enables much smaller wires to be used for the triggering device (button in this case), yet still deliver high CURRENT and thus more power to the device.