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| Brake pads | Login/Join |
DRR S/Pro |
I use the 85 compound. Brake dust is about average I guess . I generally pull my chute out of habit unless running 1/8 mile but have stopped just fine without it the times I didnt pull it on a 1/4 mile pass and I am 228-232 MPH. Whats really nice about these pads it they stop the first time you hit the brakes, no real need to bed them in like other pads.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Big Steve, | |||
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DRR Pro |
not sure which compound,they suggested the one that srops best on top end,i chose the one that staged best and stopped good after burnout.i kind a think it was the 84.i will research this more and figure it out,found the chart i believe mine is the 85 also honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224 | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
I was on the borderline between the 2 at 196-197 @ 1910 lbs.I'll probably still go with #85 though | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
85 on mine to J.R. Baxter ""Fathom the hypocrisy of a Government that requires every citizen to prove they are insured ..but not everyone must prove they are a citizen." 2024 Miller Rolla Competition Engines ProCharger Hoosier Tires Abruzzi | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
I run the gold pads on my shark and yes on the depositing metal...it stops good though running 4.70's/7.50's @ 143/178 up here in Colorado | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
I talked to someone at Mark Williams yesterday. I missed his name but what a great guy. I told him what I had for brakes and we spent about 15 minutes on the phone talking brakes in general. I ended up their Ferodo pads but may have to turn down the bridge bushing slightly to fit into the slot on their pad. If I have to change pads at 100 passes I am OK with that. I'll just put it into my tire rotation program which is usually around 30 passes. I have thought about changing brakes to either Lamb or MW but after talking to both, I would go with MW all day every day. MW was helpful, courteous and even said their brakes would not be that big of an upgrade if I was already using the 2 piece floating hat/rotor. I had talked to Lamb a while back and let's just say it was none of the above and leave it there. | |||
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| DRR Pro |
Just hope you don’t run on short tracks....running 4.40 or quickerThis message has been edited. Last edited by: WHOMPWHOMP, | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
Why is that? Did you have a problem? How fast in the 1/8? I have been 4.40 with the current setup using Strange 5022 medium pads, 5020 hard pad and Hawk DR97. I never had a problem even going 1/4 at 192-193. I know a lot of people running MW brakes and the Ferodo medium pads going 4.40's or faster. I will be picking up some power with the 9* heads and expecting 4.30's so I would like to know why you made that statement. | |||
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| DRR Pro |
Don’t khow how short of tracks you run on but mine flat out would not stop well enough for me an that is with dual brakes...my brakes were getting hot and the MARK WILLIAMS calipers would literally lock up the wheels not going down the track but in pits an doing burnout...I was having to put new pads on when half wore out the piston would get ****ed...TBM calipers fixed my problems...IMO all the new calipers that are billet an want flex like MW...I have no trouble with MW on my door cars though... | |||
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| DRR Pro |
I will also add that I DOUBLE enter whenever possible so that didn’t help | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
When I ran the Ferodo pads with the bracket car it would take about 3 runs before they would stop desently, the first pass was normally an oh chit moment and that was running 4.70s at 145 in the 1/8th. After that they stopped just fine for those ETs | |||
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| DRR Elite |
Never had an oh chit moment ever with Ferodo pads on my dragster running 149 in the 1/8th, 182 in the 1/4. Sure they feel better on the second hit but all pads need at least one real hit to bed them properly. I’ve spoken to my son about trying another brake pad based on what I’ve read here and he does not want me to fix what ain’t broken. He likes his brakes, knows exactly what to expect when he hits them, very predictable, they work well. Maybe it’s the DOT5 silicon brake fluid.   | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
Did you change to the TBM rotor as well or just the calipers? If not, what rotors are you using? | |||
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| DRR Pro |
for me i kept the strange 2 pice stainless and their caliper.i really like the looks of tbm caliper ,it looks like an improvement over these.i just didnt want to spend the money yet. honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224 | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
Sorry man. I'm bored and my engine is at Sunset so... How do you like the Strange Stainless rotor? A friend of mine has Moser Stainless and loves them. I assume you are using the TBM #85 pad with the Strange stainless rotor? I ordered a set of Ferodo pads and now regretting it a bit if they are going to take 3-5 passes to bed in. I was 4.40 at 156 before but expecting low to mid 4.30's at 158 ish when I get the engine back, maybe faster. My 11* made 1250 and he is expecting the 9* to make 1340-1350. I am in full debate mode now. My options at least in my mind are: Stay with Strange steel with 2 piece rotor and TBM #85 pads. Stay with Strange but upgrade to SS rotors with TBM #85Pads Go MW brakes with TBM pads Go Moser stainless and the Hawk DTC30 pad they use for them. Go all TBM.. Expensive especially with dual brakes (foot and hand) | |||
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| DRR Elite |
Here’s an idea...get the engine in the car sees what it really runs and how the Ferodo pads work for you. I’m at Epping and there are many TD and TS cars with MW brakes and Ferodo pads running much faster than you expect to. | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
I would love to if I had the chance to go do some testing when I get the engine back. My plan is to head east bracket racing in Oct but probably won't have much chance to test. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
I went up to change my master because pedal went 1/2 to floor once, checked rear brakes first only to find: 1 pad completely gone, 1 down to 1/8", the other 2 had broken in half and these were 1/4" thick. These were B5022 pads, checked at start of this season - had over 1/4" left. Got allot of laps on these but was shocked to see how they fell apart, maybe the reason for obsoleting them. The racer I gave my spare B5022's was also using them too and had 1 break in half also... | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
So there are a few factors in this whole mess! First you need to know that your pedal ratio and master cylinder diameter are correct in order to develop adequate line pressure, if this is not right you will have issues with any brake manufacturer. I have experience with Strange, MW and Lamb. Strange work OK on slower dragsters but once you get into the 170 mph plus range, the pads needed to stop don't last and the rotors turn into stop signs and warp. Lamb's work great but their rotors are cast, which eventually crack. I guess they have a steel rotor too. I have MW on my car now with Ferodo pads, stops great at 196 mph plus and the pads last and the rotors do too! No idea why anyone would need or want more stopping power than these brakes provide! | |||
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| DRR Elite |
TOP38...KNOWS | |||
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