Expert Ed and his know it all opinions

know far more than you that hides behind a screen name.

Well, at least according to you

I respect 1290's opinion but I need a pad that will last more than 100 runs.

ep-

I sell the CL pads they speak of.. Last over 200 runs on my car... Allen Wickell had 400 runs on his when he changed them..

quote:

Originally posted by Rick4310:
I sell the CL pads they speak of.. Last over 200 runs on my car... Allen Wickell had 400 runs on his when he changed them..

They were issues with these/my pads....thought they had a replacement coming out but having heard anything....but IMO money wise they still don’t beat the TBM pad

My critique for good brake pads isn't driven by how many passes they will last. My critique is #1 how well do they stop my car? #2 do they warp the rotors? #3 do they hold the car while bumping in? #4 how many passes do they last? and #5 do they produce excessive brake dust?

The Ferodo pads loaded in my Mark Williams calipers with my brake system filled with DOT5 silicone fluid, stops both my cars very well, do not warp the rotors, bumping in is a non issue, last less than 100 passes on my dragster, double that on my Firebird and produce normal/minimal brake dust.

Now if there is a pad that does all the above as good and last longer I'd try them but changing brake pads in less than 100 runs is maybe a 30 minute exercise, a non issue for me. Also makes cleaning of the 4 link, shocks, chassis and wheels easier. Got to use that Lucas Slick Mist Thanks Lucas Oil Products!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,

tbm here also,for me the gold pads made it are to stop after burnout and staging.

quote:

Originally posted by adv ET 266:
Did/do you have issues with those SE Gold pads
depositing Metal on your rotors?

Yes they do. And i go through 2 sets of pads a year. I have thought about adding a handbrake but that would be a winter project

Ed,

Just to make sure your data base is up to date I thought I would post this for you about the fluid you are running. This is from the Mark Williams web site regarding DOT 5 silicon fluid.

Brake Lines and Fluid
Aircraft AN-3 brake lines and fittings are recommended. Only stainless steel braided teflon hose, stainless or seamless steel tubing (3/16” x .028”) should be used for brake lines. MW has available swaged Teflon Stainless flexible braided line that can be fabricated on a same day basis. The are available online (P/N 0300-X-X). Lines should be secured to chassis rails to resist vibration and routed in such a way to avoid possible contact with wheels, tires and other moving parts. Joining hard line and braided line or “T”s should be done using a bulkhead fitting and a small tab welded to the chassis. Long runs should be done with hard tubing to avoid expansion of flexible line. The amount of flexible braided hose in the system should be kept to a minimum. See page 64 or the online store for AN -3 fittings and brake line. Use of DOT 4 or 5.1 fluid with a high boiling point and lubrication for seals and pistons is recommended. Do not use (DOT 5) silicone fluids .

Perhaps you might want change to 5.1 - They were very strong with their recommendation to me not to run silicone when I called and ask. Just want you to be safe.

I'm aware of MW's fluid recommendation thank you. That said, both my cars came from the builders with Mark Williams brakes and DOT5 in their master cylinders as did my son's Halfscale junior dragsters and all have been run for years without issue. FYI, the COPO Camaros also come with DOT5 fluid in their master cylinders. DOT5 is also apparently used in military vehicles.

Wow! I am surprised you don’t want to go by the manufactures recommendation being a Hoosier guy and all.

I have been looking for a good brake pad for my strange brakes since they stopped making the 5022 pad. I put the 5020 pad on and hated them, then went back to Hawk. I remembered quickly why I went away from them, brake dust on my $5000 Delta wheels was ridiculous after one pass. I am going to call TBM about their pad but a bit concerned about how it will be held in place, maybe Whomp or Steve can enlighten me.

quote:

posted August 20, 2020 10:01 AM Hide Post
I have been looking for a good brake pad for my strange brakes since they stopped making the 5022 pad. I put the 5020 pad on and hated them, then went back to Hawk. I remembered quickly why I went away from them, brake dust on my $5000 Delta wheels was ridiculous after one pass. I am going to call TBM about their pad but a bit concerned about how it will be held in place, maybe Whomp or Steve can enlighten me.

they just slide in and the bolt goes behind the pad.works great

quote:

Originally posted by rusty:

quote:

posted August 20, 2020 10:01 AM Hide Post
I have been looking for a good brake pad for my strange brakes since they stopped making the 5022 pad. I put the 5020 pad on and hated them, then went back to Hawk. I remembered quickly why I went away from them, brake dust on my $5000 Delta wheels was ridiculous after one pass. I am going to call TBM about their pad but a bit concerned about how it will be held in place, maybe Whomp or Steve can enlighten me.

they just slide in and the bolt goes behind the pad.works great

I figured that was the case. I loved the 5022 pad and had no problem stopping at 193 in the 1/4. The Hawks feel better than the 5020 but brake dust is so bad I can't deal with it.

I put hawks on last time and I agree that they work good but the brake dust is terrible. makes my wheels look like they have been powder coated. I decided to go with the strange 5020. I ran them for many years with no issues.

ep

the tbm pad we use is the one that stops best after the burnout,it stops really good on top end,225 plus

quote:

Originally posted by rusty:
the tbm pad we use is the one that stops best after the burnout,it stops really good on top end,225 plus

Are you using the F3 #85 pad? I am not going 225 but I do expect to be going 196-197 when I get the engine back. I hurt my 11* heads so it's at Sunset getting a 9* makeover.

I just spoke with Jason at TBM and he thinks I should go with the #1 compound and not the #85. Steve and Rusty, what compounds are you using? Brake dust? Are you guys pulling the chute on every pass?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: TonyB6255,

After years of ****ty braking and grinding rotors to remove residue from B5020 pads, I switched over to the B5022, the B5020 would last 1/2 season, the 5022 = 2 yrs. and still look good. I had a spare set of B5022's I gave to another racer in need last weekend, sucks being a 'Nice Guy' sometimes.....A friend said Wilwood makes a good pad, (no screw hole)?

quote:

Originally posted by TonyB6255:

quote:

Originally posted by rusty:
the tbm pad we use is the one that stops best after the burnout,it stops really good on top end,225 plus

Are you using the F3 #85 pad? I am not going 225 but I do expect to be going 196-197 when I get the engine back. I hurt my 11* heads so it's at Sunset getting a 9* makeover.

I just spoke with Jason at TBM and he thinks I should go with the #1 compound and not the #85. Steve and Rusty, what compounds are you using? Brake dust? Are you guys pulling the chute on every pass?

im running 85 but all 1/8 mile...but a lot of very short tracks