Ok we will try a thread and see how long before numnuts edna screws it up.

What would cause the tire to be jerking vilolently with brake applied. Tire only moves a little bit when doing so. Checked band it should be fine, plus tire moving in forward motion suggesting in rear clutch pack loosing pressure.

Figure tb valve sticking or a leak somewhere. I know clearance in pack is fine just checked.

is there NOTHING you touch on your POS FED, that you assembled that either doesn't break or functions correctly?

Stop wasting time on this Bracket Racing forum with your

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
endless posts asking about mostly meaningless BS

and learn how to assemble, bolt shyt up, wire shyt up correctly!

This thread better deliver.

just like all his other

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
endless posts asking about mostly meaningless BS

just think edna that quicker than your lights.


again posting bs with nothing to add.

Plunger engagement off on the solenoid?

I will check that this evening when checking to see if sticking. I do know it is not perfectly aligned or should say was not on the older case. This is used Reid case I bought of another member on site.

AGAIN...

quote:

is there NOTHING you touch on your POS FED, that you assembled that either doesn't break or functions correctly?

Thanks Bob.

I've had sticking TB valves with the fti aluminum valve bodies. Usually put the valve in a drill and hit it with a Scotch Brite pad.

That is what they suggested. Seems they have habit of it.

Denis,

was car jerking hard on tb. I mean this thing acts like it wants to jump off the stand.

Ive always checked the TB and manual valve before installing the aluminum brakes. Not sure what it would do.

the spool is likely not going in deep enough or solenoid week /voltage or ground issue.my bet is spool needs to go in a little more.check pressure at servo and reverse for grins

I bought a Coan aluminum TB VB
The steel valve would stick in the AL VB and not go all the way it...

I sanded the valve in my lathe and tried to lightly hone the valve body hole with a Sunnen valve guide hone.

The hone could not go far enough in the hole due to the stone being set back from the end of the hone mandrel...

I spent hours messing with this
Called Coan to complain and should have sent it back...but did not

I got it moving as free as I could....installed it in trans

Went to track and backed out of trailer and could not move forward.....valve was stuck IN....reverse was being applied....

After a few minutes running time and some heat built up everything was fine and it worked normal after that.

It was no quicker reacting than the iron Hipster VB I had been using...and that's the reason I bought it....looking to speed up RT's to provide a bigger cushion for loose starting lines that I encountered once in a while....

I removed the Coan and reinstalled the hipster...Put the Coan in my spare trans

If the valve does not go all the way in on T-Brake apply or release cleanly.....you're gonna have a problem....

I always shimmed my solenoids to only go in far enough to see the valve flush with the valve body....pan off...sometimes a fairly thick washer with the pancake style open solenoids that always worked fine for me.....The Coan used a large sealed solenoid.....and was a big waste of $$$

Someone mentioned plunger depth on the valve body. That is surely worth checking out. There is different valve bodies and solenoids and some solenoids will not go in proper depth to work right.

wrong solenoid or low voltage to the solenoid

quote:

Originally posted by rusty:
the spool is likely not going in deep enough or solenoid week /voltage or ground issue.my bet is spool needs to go in a little more.check pressure at servo and reverse for grins

^^^THIS^^^
Remember low gear is always applied, the solenoid only applies reverse. If the car moves forward its a reverse issue, if the car moves back its the band slipping

And on a separate note I had a aluminum VB, worked good for for about a year then got super inconsistent. Took it out and put a cast iron back in and problems went away

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Big Steve,

Thanks guys. I had valve out and it had a little drag so scotch brite and lathe .It is a lot smoother. Thanks for giving me a nice warm fuzzy feeling about this almost 600 bucks. Will be looking for cast iron,for when it goes bad.

I know we are not supposed to do stuff ourselves. Funny that in 4 years of running my first tb valve body I had was never an issue and it was kit that you used on stock piece with little machine work, Not that it was anything special just ironic.

I mentioned in a post while back on the subject. It would seem to install a iron liner and pinning it would cure the problem that few of you have had.

Going to fire the car up in the morning before gets stupid hot and see how it works. Not till after I check depth. Should be perfect since all parts came from fti except case.

Sucks that I sold an iron hi/lo valve body when I bought this one.

most all parts now are after market and fit is NOT garunteed

I honestly do not mean to derail this thread, but this talk of cast iron vs. aluminum valve bodies has me wondering. When we speak of cast iron valve bodies, we are only referring to modified OEM valve bodies, correct? None of the aftermarket valve bodies have been freshly cast from iron, have they? Take care. Tom Worthington