and those that forget that or refuse to acknowledge that by disregarding the safety requirements WILL pay the price if they are ever in an on track crash/fire.

So as a reminder, the required safety equipment is the minimum the NHRA requires for the ET/MPH your car runs, its no place to cut corners, no place to say it's good enough, no place to say it's not in the budget and no place to buy cheap chinese junk! Further, to skirt the rules because you know no one is checking because when things go bad, they go bad very quickly as this guy found out the hard way...


Starting at 5:45 says it all

https://youtu.be/rm3DFI9ERlY

He obviously was extremely lucky to have survived no mind be able to get back in a race car, no mind be presented with the opportunity he has now.

https://dragillustrated.com/up...ever-pro-mod-passes/

Remember him next time you chose to disregard the safety requirements for you and your car because you can.

Next, perform off season safety maintenance.

-Flush your brake system
-check your U joints
-check your heim joints
-check your wheels, especially your front SFI wheels for cracks
-dragsters...check your frame for cracks
-check your battery(s) hold down
-install a diaper/belly pan

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,

quote:

Remember him next time you chose to disregard the safety requirements for you and your car because you can.

Are you saying if I disregard safety standards I too can drive an Elite Pro Mod? Flame on biotch!

if that's your take away there's no helping your level of stupidity.

I'm not even going to ask for a show of hands for your level of arrogance. You are the poster child.

Pull your parachute every other race event or so. So may reasons for this simple test.

I have spent about $4K this off season just on a few safety related items.

Installed a secondary hand brake system
Installed a MW CV driveshaft
Installed air launchers on both chutes
New brakes on all 6 wheels of the trailer and packed the wheel bearings.

The only money I have spent on the engine is sending my blower to get restriped and also sent my rockers to T&D for rebuild

Dead on you never need safety equipment till you need it real bad.

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:

New brakes on all 6 wheels of the trailer and packed the wheel bearings.

this is on my offseason maintenance list as well.

My trailer has the Dexter Nev-R-Lube option for bearings. I replaced all of them along with new brake drums, brake shoes and backing plates. Wasn’t cheap but well worth it safety wise.

Flush your brake system for sure!! I found that out the hard way this past season.
I also want to get 2 big fire extingushers and install them in an easily accessible compartment on outside of motorhome.

This is a dangerous sport, the internet is filled with crash videos to prove that fact. It's cold guys, it's snowing and there isn't any racing until (hopefully) February so spend the time to check all the safety items on both the car the trailer and the tow vehicle.

Have a great New Year and one last thing, Lyle Barnett is an inspiration of courage and dedication to the sport we all love.

See ya'll next year.

Bob

another thing, the majority of these trailer fires are the result of a gas golf cart battery, falling over due to a broken hold down/tray. Take the goddamn battery out of your cart before going down the road!!

I modified my battery cable clamps and hold down so it's a no tools R&R.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,

Sold my golf cart but before I did I completely rebuilt the battery tray and hold down. Still not a bad idea to just remove it.

takes me 2 minutes to remove it if I'm not in a rush

Speaking of trailer fires, a local racer sells these Fireball extinguishers. I put 2 in my trailer this season, one mounted under the front cabinet above the trailer battery and one on the wall above the golf cart seat. I felt these were the 2 likely spots a fire could start. I just felt it was cheap insurance.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_0sawCkIk4

Steve, have you driven down the road with them mounted yet, do they stay put? I f they were to bounce out of the mount, would they break, leaving a mess?

What we do can be dangerous. Sure. But use some common sense. Dual brakes with separate master cylinder is huge in my opinion. Even at my speeds we never race 1/4 mile but some of our shutdowns are not that long. Lose a master cylinder and you are in big trouble.

Fire systems are not required in my class but a good idea. If you need to add weight add a fire system then you have the added safety.

I think everyone needs to have a plan. For instance what do you do if throttle sticks open? Hit ignition, fuel, parachutes and it that does not stop it push it up in neutral and hope the hope the rev limiter stops it. Even if if it does not better to lose motor than the car. But have a plan and know what to do.

HANS type devices are good.

Do everything you can to reasonably be safe and then accept that what we do can be dangerous do not be stupid.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
Steve, have you driven down the road with them mounted yet, do they stay put? I f they were to bounce out of the mount, would they break, leaving a mess?

Yes and they stay put, they sit in a basket you screw to the wall. The first time I drove with them I marked them to see how much they will move and it was about 1/8 inch and that was to one over the wheel well, the one under the cabinet did not move at all.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Big Steve,

good info, thanks.

So what do you do with the golf cart battery after it's removed? I carried a spare battery in my trailer and constantly worried about something falling over on it, tipping over, etc.....even know I had the terminals covered well.