The pipe fitting deal is just for starting. What Mark has you can drive on.

Here is what I built. It can use an injector on both ends or either. What you can't see is that it is drilled to plumb the fuel from the side that will go to both injectors since they feed from the side that is inset from the green part you see and inside the spacer.



To be transparent this wasn't an original idea from me. Someone on this board had the original idea.

For winterizing boat engines, last thing was fogging the engine, while running, and either let it drown it out, or kill it while fogging.
It doesn't take that much, and the CRC or Sta-Bil products are fine, no need to pay $25 a can.
I use Mercury Marine and a can lasts a long time.

quote:

For winterizing boat engines, last thing was fogging the engine, while running, and either let it drown it out, or kill it while fogging.

Not exactly what I would like to do to a race engine that will be raced again in a week or two.The last thing I want to do is possibly
foul spark plugs.

I have been using CRC Engine Stor for years. I run an alcohol carb and at the end of the day after getting engine good and hot I pull my fuel shut off valve and as the engine starts to rev up as it is running out of fuel I spray the butterflies of the carb liberally until she quits. I then hit the ignition a few times to burn any fuel that may still be in the cylinders until it just spins over. Change my plugs once a year and never had an issue doing this a a few dozen times a year and a can will last almost a full year.

quote:

Originally posted by HS professor:

quote:

For winterizing boat engines, last thing was fogging the engine, while running, and either let it drown it out, or kill it while fogging.

Not exactly what I would like to do to a race engine that will be raced again in a week or two.The last thing I want to do is possibly
foul spark plugs.

Never an issue in 40 years, and most of those engines were battery power points ignition systems.
A little smoke when they start up, and it's over.

I will admit that NONE of them were on Alky for fuel.

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
Do you really think Foggit is worth $25 a can retail ?

I'm sure it's a good product but IMHO it's all about marketing

Some big name guys get behind a product and promote it in a big way

The same formula has been used for other products promoted in racing.

We used the WD-40 down the carb often and in the spark plug holes and it works

The only engines I ever found with rust issues would have been cast iron heads and around the exhaust valves and seats

Some Stock and Super Stock racers used ATF or MMO which is a great product also.....Changing plugs to a warm up set was a normal routine once upon a time....

My buddy used plugs in his header collectors to close them off...

Plastic plugs that are used on electrical piping worked perfect

I'm not paying $25 for Foggit.....Fugit...LOL

This right here. A lot of the parts we've used over the years are just re-boxed pieces. (Think header evacuation systems here). Vendors buy them, put them in a box with Racing in it somewhere and we fall all over ourselves paying beaucoup money for them. I quit falling for that years ago when I realized it was the driver not the parts.

Fogging an engine after use? I think it's a great idea. But I'll bet the $25 a can stuff had a use somewhere else first. The trick is knowing where and what.

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:

quote:

Originally posted by HS professor:

quote:

For winterizing boat engines, last thing was fogging the engine, while running, and either let it drown it out, or kill it while fogging.

Not exactly what I would like to do to a race engine that will be raced again in a week or two.The last thing I want to do is possibly
foul spark plugs.

Never an issue in 40 years, and most of those engines were battery power points ignition systems.
A little smoke when they start up, and it's over.

I will admit that NONE of them were on Alky for fuel.

Don’t give fouled plugs a thought when using MSD analog or Digital 7 ignition. These have 500 runs, .043” gap and never missed a beat!! No rust in that engine / heads when it was in for rebuild.

Good information to know, I think I'll give it a whirl..............

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
The pipe fitting deal is just for starting. What Mark has you can drive on.

Here is what I built. It can use an injector on both ends or either. What you can't see is that it is drilled to plumb the fuel from the side that will go to both injectors since they feed from the side that is inset from the green part you see and inside the spacer.



To be transparent this wasn't an original idea from me. Someone on this board had the original idea.

That looks nice and much safer if using gasoline to prime for methanol starting. You could modify that plate as Rons sells the spray bars and ends separate for the Primer Plus plate.

Rons spray bar has six .020” holes on 45* angles and mine uses a #50 pill at the inlet. The plate is mounted with the holes pointing UP.

I ran a Terminator with a Primer Plus...
Plugs would get some residue from the gas and alcohol

I rarely changed them and never had a problem

Occasionally would pull them out a glass bead them and clean with lacquer thinner...

MSD's will fire a plug with the ground electrode cut off and usually not be an issue...

50,000 volts vs a 10,000 volt coil in the old days and that's why warm up plugs were common.....

I never fogged my engines.....When I ran alcohol I would get it up to 200 at the end of a night and put it away

On gas I did nothing....

when I sold my car the block in it was from 2013....to 2022 and redone once from 4.600 to 4.610 a year or 2 ago...

Hundreds of runs at 4.600 on both gas and alcohol without doing any fogging routine

Yes I did my own engines and took them apart sometimes over the winter just because I wanted to and maybe change something or freshen up the heads or rings....

I did engines for others that really neglected them....One guy had a 375 SB with a toilet and it had gobs of alcohol and gook in it when he dropped it off....

Alcohol is corrosive because it is hydroscopic......means it attracts moisture....get it out of there and out of your carburetor too if it's gonna sit for a substantial period of time...

When I ran alcohol I did winterize my fuel system by removing it and filling it with something such as gas or WD-40

Week to week was no problems....I added Klotz Uplon to all my Methanol.....worked better than anything else....never had a problem once I used it....

Little off topic, but the guys running alky carbs does anyone still use a lean out valve to build heat with?. Years ago I would see some cars with a hose running from the intake to the inside of the car with a ball valve attached to build heat

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
Little off topic, but the guys running alky carbs does anyone still use a lean out valve to build heat with?. Years ago I would see some cars with a hose running from the intake to the inside of the car with a ball valve attached to build heat

My dad still uses one and it works great on his alcohol stuff.

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
Little off topic, but the guys running alky carbs does anyone still use a lean out valve to build heat with?. Years ago I would see some cars with a hose running from the intake to the inside of the car with a ball valve attached to build heat

Yes I do.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
The pipe fitting deal is just for starting. What Mark has you can drive on.

Here is what I built. It can use an injector on both ends or either. What you can't see is that it is drilled to plumb the fuel from the side that will go to both injectors since they feed from the side that is inset from the green part you see and inside the spacer.



To be transparent this wasn't an original idea from me. Someone on this board had the original idea.

That looks nice and much safer if using gasoline to prime for methanol starting. You could modify that plate as Rons sells the spray bars and ends separate for the Primer Plus plate.

Rons spray bar has six .020” holes on 45* angles and mine uses a #50 pill at the inlet. The plate is mounted with the holes pointing UP.

Mark, why would I want to modify it to run a spray bar? That would be a step backwards from using an injector. It's not just to prime for start, you could drive on it also.

I use a lean out valve for getting heat in the engine.

Ive used CRC silicone spray to fog the engine and keep my guns rust free.
Doesn’t dry like wd40 does, no waxy film and no rust.

I ran an alcohol 1050 on my 509 and used a leanout valve and still have it...

A Slide type valve with 1/2" plastic tubing...

It worked well to build heat...

I like this stuff.

https://gibbsbrandlubricant.com/

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:Mark, why would I want to modify it to run a spray bar? That would be a step backwards from using an injector. It's not just to prime for start, you could drive on it also.

Thought it was just for priming. How does it work for running the engine, warming and driving? Are you using this now?

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:Mark, why would I want to modify it to run a spray bar? That would be a step backwards from using an injector. It's not just to prime for start, you could drive on it also.

Thought it was just for priming. How does it work for running the engine, warming and driving? Are you using this now?

Does it still pull methanol from the carb bowls while idling or running on the gas primer?