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Foggit spray???
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DRR S/Pro
Picture of CURTIS REED
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Is anyone using the Foggit brand fogging spray oil?

1. If so do you use it after every race?

2. Do you spray it into a running engine or just spin it over while spraying?

3. Do you use the same plugs after using the spray or should I ask do you have to change plugs?

4. Have you torn down an engine that you used it in to see empirical evidence that it does help on the cylinder walls?

I have always hated how my cylinder walls look on alcohol and am considering trying this but don't need another snake oil. LOL



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Posts: 3150 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I’ve used for about 2 yrs. Using an inspection camera down the ports I’d always see the valve seats with some rust and a rust film on the cylinders. Foggit stopped all that. I spray it down the carb at an idle then shut the engine down. Then another spray after shut down. My thought is only the cylinders with open valve will get moisture to developed rust so spraying after shut down will go down the “open valve”cylinders mostlyu


.
Dave



F J B

 
Posts: 4569 | Location: Earth | Registered: February 08, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I not only use it and recommend it for engines, but I also use it the shop for everything. Drilling, grinding, spray on head before bagging.

It's not hype, it works well.
 
Posts: 1420 | Location: Hays Kansas | Registered: January 23, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks guys.

Dave do you change plugs each outing or run the same? Wasn't sure how it would effect them.



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Posts: 3150 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Never changed plugs because of the Foggit....I would think any mist that may come in contact with the sparkplug will be vaporized on start-up...I can only say I've never had an issue using it....And like Mr. Speier says I use it for many things around the shop as well


.
Dave



F J B

 
Posts: 4569 | Location: Earth | Registered: February 08, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks Dave



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Posts: 3150 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Do we have any feedback about how Foggit compares to Sta-bil and other premium fogging oils?

Or, do we have any sources for wholesale pricing?

On the Foggit website they show a price break at 36 cans. This is much more that I am able to buy.

Example, Sta-bil is around $5.00 per can where Foggit shows $20.00 per can on the website.


Larry Woodfin



 
Posts: 1873 | Location: Kilgore TX | Registered: March 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Picture of Big Steve
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With my blower motor at the end of the day I would pull all the plugs and spin it over to blow any excess fuel from the cylinders. I would then spray a good amount WD40 in each cylinder, spin the motor a couple of revolutions to spread it around and put warm up plugs back in. Never had any corrosion in the cylinders at tear downs
 
Posts: 2545 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Steve, that is also in my price range Smile

I have high respect for Gary Sinnett and his company and products. I believe him to be a very smart man. He is cultivating a higher end customer and I understand and applaud his work.

Looking back over 77 years of experience, I see ways I could have improved my retirement years and one of them would have been cultivating a higher end customer base.


Larry Woodfin



 
Posts: 1873 | Location: Kilgore TX | Registered: March 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of SCDIV1
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Do you really think Foggit is worth $25 a can retail ?

I'm sure it's a good product but IMHO it's all about marketing

Some big name guys get behind a product and promote it in a big way

The same formula has been used for other products promoted in racing.

We used the WD-40 down the carb often and in the spark plug holes and it works

The only engines I ever found with rust issues would have been cast iron heads and around the exhaust valves and seats

Some Stock and Super Stock racers used ATF or MMO which is a great product also.....Changing plugs to a warm up set was a normal routine once upon a time....

My buddy used plugs in his header collectors to close them off...

Plastic plugs that are used on electrical piping worked perfect

I'm not paying $25 for Foggit.....Fugit...LOL
 
Posts: 2735 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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man w/o my readers and blurring after on the computer. This had me worried about the site for a second.




America home of free. Brought to you by 2nd amendment.
 
Posts: 4533 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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WD-40 is a great water dispersant but not a good long term protectant. I’ve tried that route. I’m not pulling plugs after every race though, specially at 2 in the morning. I will however pop the breather off and treat the engine that way.

$20 is a trip for a burger for me and the wife so, that’s a non issue. I have some Yamalube fogging oil but it’s more for long term storage. It works well for that but I wouldn’t use it weekly.



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Posts: 3150 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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guess just broke dyck and still use wd 40




America home of free. Brought to you by 2nd amendment.
 
Posts: 4533 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
WD-40 is a great water dispersant but not a good long term protectant. I’ve tried that route. I’m not pulling plugs after every race though, specially at 2 in the morning. I will however pop the breather off and treat the engine that way.

$20 is a trip for a burger for me and the wife so, that’s a non issue. I have some Yamalube fogging oil but it’s more for long term storage. It works well for that but I wouldn’t use it weekly.



You're ok with it so buy it.....It's your $$
 
Posts: 2735 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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What I'm doing works well, is fairly quick and easy...and for 20 bucks once or twice a year I'm not going to change my procedure...

Everybody else can do what they want to...we are still a free country.....for the moment


.
Dave



F J B

 
Posts: 4569 | Location: Earth | Registered: February 08, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Directions say to open throttle blades and turn over engine while spraying evenly.
I may try this on out alcohol car, certainly can't hurt.
I pulled the heads off an alky engine and was shocked at the flash rust Eek
 
Posts: 1422 | Location: Monroe twp nj | Registered: December 05, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I like using a primer plus to start, warm and dry my engine out at the end of the day. And now that I switched from MFI to EFI still on methanol, it takes little run time to dry everything out after an event day. Driving back from the last run on primer plus will easily do it.
 
Posts: 2688 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by markemark:
I like using a primer plus to start, warm and dry my engine out at the end of the day. And now that I switched from MFI to EFI still on methanol, it takes little run time to dry everything out after an event day. Driving back from the last run on primer plus will easily do it.


Mark, on my car I have 10lbs of cr@p in a 5lb bag so no room for anything else such as that. I would put a nitrous bottle on first if I had any more room anyway.

I did actually build a primer system using late 80s model Ford injector. I machined up a spacer that it fit in and gathered up all the in tank fuel pump and the electronic stuff to drive injector. It would be adjustable with a dial from the seat of the car so you could lean it out when you built heat. Still have it on the shelf because I'm not sure where I would mount the tank.



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Posts: 3150 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Some have installed 1/8 pipe in spacer ( 4 sides), remove, shoot and crank.


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Posts: 4673 | Location: Vacaville  | Registered: January 07, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Really like the injector deal!


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Posts: 4673 | Location: Vacaville  | Registered: January 07, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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