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DRR Top Comp |
If you have experience you can set up the clickers with an expected outcome. Then tune from there, this saves fuel. The reason I suggested you want a clicker setting on the loose side damping for compression and tight rebound with a dip in your graph after flash stall, is for the simple reason you wanna prolong the time the tire is under the car, that way it gets up on the tire after the dip, in the area of the graph which shows the engine rpm accelerating to the shift. You can save a lot of time and fuel with experience, before going to the video. The video only authenticates what you already know, and you tweak it from there. A dip is a good problem to have Super Pro bracket racing. It's like putting it into high gear (after flash stall) in the area on the track the tire is challenged most, it's like traction control.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow, | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
If I were trying to win Super Pro bracket races with my Nova, I'd find that dip very useful. If I were trying to get my Nova to dip in the 5's n/a, I'd work the dip out of the graph with gearing. If the dragster isn't building 6-8-10 degrees (methanol) going down the track Cory, you're not making any heat in the chamber (for power). Leaving power on the table, fat mixture. That's just my approach though, so take it with a grain of salt. Everyone has their own way. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
APD told me to run 9psi and have for years without issue. Try calling them to see what they say for pressure - but rest assured that is what they told me with a similiar carb setup. I dont let car sit with motor off and pump on for long...but have to see what would happen and nothing. I start pump, then start engine. Never an issue in 3 years. | |||
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