quote:

I'm trying to get more ground clearance for my oil pan. Trying to lower the engine in the car.

In my line of work that is called "conflicting objectives".
Just to gather more info on what is driving your considerations, did your pan get bounced on the track coming down hard off a wheelie? And is there a performance improvement you are seeking by lowering the engine in the car, or would that be to reduce the chance of a re-occurrence by decreasing a tendency for the car to wheel-stand??

The car has tendency to wheelie or hit the bars hard to keep it down. I think with 50/50 bias it needs lowered a little to not ride the bars so hard.
No marks on the bottom of the pan but somehow the sides are buckled. Odd part is the bar that goes under the flex plate is 1/4" lower than the pan and also doesn't have a scratch on it.

quote:

Originally posted by FootbrakeJim:

quote:

I'm trying to get more ground clearance for my oil pan. Trying to lower the engine in the car.

In my line of work that is called "conflicting objectives".
Just to gather more info on what is driving your considerations, did your pan get bounced on the track coming down hard off a wheelie? And is there a performance improvement you are seeking by lowering the engine in the car, or would that be to reduce the chance of a re-occurrence by decreasing a tendency for the car to wheel-stand??

After years of drooling over a drysump I bought one. Could n ot get car consistant first 4 passes had to get oil temp up to 150 or it varied 3 finally took it of and put on my old moroso kickout pan car would repeat 5.82 all day so....ya it would run more MPH with drysump but I won more with wet

quote:

Originally posted by vetman:
After years of drooling over a drysump I bought one. Could n ot get car consistant first 4 passes had to get oil temp up to 150 or it varied 3 finally took it of and put on my old moroso kickout pan car would repeat 5.82 all day so....ya it would run more MPH with drysump but I won more with wet

Something doesn't sound right about this. I went from a wet sump to a dry sump and car not only picked up, it was every bit as consistent. The only thing that's ever affected my car's consistency has been either my tuneup or weird weather like we had on the mountain in Denver. Even with that the last full season I raced there my car only varied about .04 all season long...The driver on the other hand.........well, we won't talk about that.....

I have been researching about dry sumps. Just haven't pulled the trigger yet.
I messaged Peterson and they recommended a 6 qt tank. I just can't get over the small volume of 6 qts being enough. Right now I carry 10qts in a wet sump.
How much capacity are you guys running? Also, Indy is only using three stages. Which sounds like they are only picking up from the rear of the pan.

Dave

Alaska racer car only moved on et when oil was below 150 degrees when its in the 40s 50s its tough to get temp up on alky and us cars Byron gets great turn outs only one time hit then quit a wait for first round so it takes till third round for complete warmup as for your insinuation Im inconsistant come on downI did win the Super pro pionts that year -2018 points champ CFR 1992 2o00 2007 CORDOVA 2003 Byron 2012 2018

Just reading over this thread. You can do a dry sump system for around $2700 all in. I got a used 5 vane oil pump online ($250) and sent it back to the manufactured to be rebuilt ($400). I got an oil pan for $750. I got a tall 10 quart moroso tank $600. I made mounts to mount on the front of my engine. Lines where about $700 with fittings.

I love having oil pressure at all times. I didnt get a HP increase but I was concerned about pressure loss on the big end and low pressure after a run.

If I could get in for that price I would. I'm going to change pump and pan even if I go back wet sump so there is close to $1500.