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Tech Talk - by Abruzzi
Delay box/footbrake question .Go ![]() | New ![]() | Find ![]() | Notify ![]() | Tools ![]() | Reply ![]() | |
| DRR Trophy |
Hey all , just a question . I currently run footbrake . We run a .400 sportsman tree . Currently I have to use a count but that can be a little erratic , I am between last 2 lights . Now I am considering moving to a box class . What are your thoughts on leaving on the 2nd bulb rather than top ? I heard Luke B talking re this . Would this take some of the "suprise" out of reacting? I am also considering slowing the car reaction and also leave off 2nd in footbrake . Any thoughts ? My Plymouth is just under 3800lbs . Thanks , Tex | ||
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| DRR Sportsman |
Using a delay box, I would think that the most natural and consistent reaction would be leaving (reacting) to the first light. Otherwise, you are anticipating or guessing at the second light. When footbraking, you need to get your routine the same every time. Pick a spot and leave at that spot EVERY TIME. If you need to have a better or slower (depends on your spot) reaction, then work on the car for that change. As in, change starting RPM or tire size or shock travel or whatever. And as with anything, the more you do something, the better you are at it. So practice. Tim West "Wild Wild West" Racing mickeythompsontires.com tciauto.com compcams.com www.motorsportsinnovations.com | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
Thanks Tim Tex | |||
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DRR Top Comp![]() |
I think what helped me was working on getting the lights CONSISTENT. Just do same thing every time, very careful to stage same (shallow) same RPM, same tire pressure all around and leave at same spot. That told me if it was me or the car. Once you get you and the car consistent lights then you can start making small changes to get lights better. Staging, front tire pressure and RPM are very critical in reaction times when footbraking. Higher RPM and tire pressure = quicker reaction times. Lower = Slower. Rear tire pressure also effects reaction time but I try to work with front tire pressure and RPM as much as possible. I am one that always stages shallow, in my opinion say you have 8 inches of roll out or what ever it is if you bump in 4 inches you have used up half of it. Next time you bump in 6 inches your reaction time will be way different. For me I find it hard to come up on RPM and then bump in deep the same every time. So I stick with shallow for consistency. Until we get a consistent routine I think we all make several big changes or anticipate it trying to make up for bad lights then we are lost. By my way of thinking even if your lights are .040 ( or .020 Red) but they are consistent you have something to work with. You will get one where you missed the tree, operator malfunction. We all do it once in a while. I do not make any changes off of those, that will get you lost quickly and chasing your tail. One thing that hurt me for a while was I would be having good lights then air or track got a little better and then out of no where would have a .030 red. Pretty sure I did not anticipate the light. Found out it was popping tires UP out of beams instead of pulling forward out of beams. So I made a few chassis changes to fix it. You and the car have to be consistent. Some days my driving just is not very good and I resist making changes on that day and getting lost. https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/ "Dunning-Kruger Effect" -a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge. Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue. 4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion | |||
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Bracket Talk
Bracket Talk Forum
Tech Talk - by Abruzzi
Delay box/footbrake question .

