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MFI pump sizer ?
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DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
posted
Have not run pump sizer in decades, Might need one on this setup. Can not remember poppet pressure. I have few note non clear on pressure just jetting and when to add based on engine temp time.

Anyone running one. Pump gpm and if know idle check pressure and sizer pressures?




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Posts: 4632 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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Since (I think) you aren't running a blower you will want to have that fuel out early but above the idle check. I assume that you are trying to get the main jet down to a manageable size with smaller areas increments.
 
Posts: 199 | Location: Rock><Hard Place | Registered: February 20, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Big Steve
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To have any kind of accuracy you will need to know your current pump GPM, your target GPM then put the pump on a flow bench and adjust sizer accordingly.

If not your just shooting from the hip wasting methanol and risking engine damage. But I think you already know that.
 
Posts: 2637 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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pump flows 6.65 gpm and gpm to engine should be between 2.6 and 2.8 gpm.

Not much damage going to happen with injected with blower I agree.Might run like **** and always start on rich and eaase into it. right now it is popping off little past crack of throttle and can tell it from throttle response and sound in pipes.

A the moment iot is set 5 lbs above idle check. Yes main is gett bigger than like to run.

I did find issue with crank trigger today that is cause issue in 2 and 3 either magnet or need so shim trigger out to better center on wheel. Either way went back tio straight mag and cleared up lot of what I was blaming on fuel.

Stillm like to get main back down .030 or so to get me back into 120 area on jetting. Sizer jetted for that difference in flow right now. Going out tomorrow. Plus have few cylinder to cylinder to get on same playing field.




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Posts: 4632 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Big Steve
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I cant remember, do you leave off a trans brake? If so you said its popping after you leave. If leaving on a TB you might want to add an electronic lean out while on the chip to keep the cylinders from loading up with fuel. When I was first getting my TD figured out we saw with a Go Pro a couple of pipes going wet at the hit. Added a electronic lean out and problem solved and 60 ft picked up a couple of hun
 
Posts: 2637 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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Have air solenoid that pulls fuel while brake is on. Along with two more incase want to activate later on after good base tune.Trying to control the want to add tricks side. I have a 4stage lean.richen system sitting here,but ;little much for bracket car.




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Posts: 4632 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1
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From my experience (your mileage may vary) with a 6.8 pump there is no way you need a pump sizer or all the staging leanouts or 4 stage leanout. Do not even need a high speed leanout. Keep it simple. It appears to me and I may be wrong but your air solenoids and leanouts are just creating problems not solutions. Your return system should handle all your needs for that motor.

On my 454 SBC with Enderle hat I had 6.8 pump, around .035 nozzles and was only working with about 50 PSI wide open and never had any problems on the trans brake or any where in RPM range unless I got a clogged nozzle. Did not use a high speed leanout and my O2 numbers and performance was really good through out the whole pass. That was with 760 HP if you have more than that you will be returning even less fuel and less need for High Speed or pump sizer. IMHO.

Which brings up a question. Exactly what makes you think it was too fat so that it needs all those leanouts?

Assuming you have proper size returns and no kinks in the return lines or other issues then your MFI system should be about right and not need all those things to make it work.


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"Dunning-Kruger Effect"
-a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge.

Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue.

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Posts: 4436 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Sportsman
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If it's NA, make sure the barrel valve is setup for NA configuration and not for blown configuration. Assuming it is, you don't need a pump sizer for any NA application with a 6.6 GPM pump. The 80A-1 is 7.4 GPM and those systems never require a pump sizer unless you are down in the small block world and 500 hp range. Get rid of the all the lean outs, usually they won't make much difference. 1 as a high speed is all you will benefit from and that's not a guarantee, i've only seen a couple of them really respond positively to a HS lean out on NA applications.

ON an Enderle 80A-1 pump flow tag 7.4 GPM.
800 HP range needs 36 port jet, 110 to 120 main.
1000 HP range needs 38 port jet, 95 to 110 main
1150 HP range needs 39 or 40 ports, 80-100 main
 
Posts: 436 | Location: Pride, La | Registered: April 18, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Big Steve
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So how did the TnT go today?
 
Posts: 2637 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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Wll first round found out can not run two return springs with SLE. 7.0 at 105 not terrible for barley opening flys and I mean barely.Maybe 25%.

Next run left like turd never got on chip not sure it sle or 2 step. Data logger reading drpm for engine and vice a versa so thinks never saw rpm for leave. Still managed lazy as 5.20 with 60 foot grandma could out run with walker.

As for fuel can not seem to lean it. Hell should be burning iot up now. Either return blockage or pump is bigger than was told. Hell Alky diggers and was told he flowed and it was off little from new. Sure as hell not acting like half gallon short. On stand sounds like ready to fly. Snappy as hell.Burnout smooth easy roll in to it.O mean bnoit blower where can burn them 1/8 mile which I do miss.LOL According to sucked in tank it is taking the fuel,maybe not literally sucking tank in.

Yes alky spool or NA.

Screw it for now. time for strong drink and get ready for week. well maybe 2 or 3 of those.

Next week going old school. Nothing but foot and trans brake.Load converter and let go. Car although fat sounds like just want to run.Hell could burn tires all I want on burn out,now that fixed too heavy return spring issue over riding sle.

.




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Posts: 4632 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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Also ne throttle pedal for next week too.Along with setting steering wheel so not out 20 to 30*. Adding backup button since releasing button now. Z force is nice for reverse,but figure remove the change for now




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Posts: 4632 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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Over nightn thinking kicking in. Going ti throw othjer mag and box on it. May end up trying whole new ignition system. Yea if bbc could probablyn borrow another igintion to give shot,Non that be too easy. Might see if can borrow box and coil for test and just have to put a belt drive distributor deal. Hell weigh less.LOL So will my right butt pocket.ufrde not firt time fuel systdem glot blamed for ignition issue.
Glad have not put new combo in or would be relly pissed thinking that was cause of issue
.
Anyoine got box and coil laying in corner collecting dust?




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Posts: 4632 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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Is it a mag20 or what?
 
Posts: 199 | Location: Rock><Hard Place | Registered: February 20, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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mag 12
. Told to stay away from 20's and DO NOT upgrade 12 to 20. Tehn only thing never been told was it takes smart guy to build a race car in fiorst place. LOL




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Posts: 4632 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1
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SUCKED IN TANK? Big red flag. Please tell me you have a good vent on tank?

SLE, lean out for transbrake, high speed lean outs, 4 stage leanout what ever that is I think you need to get rid of all that junk, keep it simple and go back to basics.

1. Make sure there is a good vent in tank. 2. Make sure your return lines are big enough and not clogged, I have seen bad hose where there was a flap inside where he messed up putting fitting on so fuel would flow one direction but flap would block fuel other direction. 3. Make sure you have right bypass pressures. (I fought with one for a while a new system and they kept telling me it is all good, the secondary bypass was supposed to be set at 18-20 PSI and do not mess with it. They kept telling me not to worry about it and did not even want to tell me what it was supposed to be set at. Finally I found out what it was supposed to be and it was way off. Fixed it and it ran great.)
Also any leaks in your inlet line to fuel pump will mess you up. Sucks air and changes everything.

Mechanical fuel injection is simple if you understand how it works. It does require good venting, good return lines and proper pump and jets / nozzles.

What is your jets and nozzles at now? Aprrox horsepower?


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"Dunning-Kruger Effect"
-a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge.

Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue.

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Posts: 4436 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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Never claimed to know igintion systems inner workings. Now FI I use to think I knew pretty damn well after almost 40 years messing with in most any form except EFI. Guess wrong there too.Normally can throw a system on off top of head and send it. Most of time good result and easy to tweak in to dead on.

Too many chganges and way far off what should be for it to be all fuel. After some thinking drinking and not mad as hell because of probelm and other crap like sle not letting me run good return springs,




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Posts: 4632 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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quote:
Originally posted by Curly1:
SUCKED IN TANK? Big red flag. Please tell me you have a good vent on tank?

SLE, lean out for transbrake, high speed lean outs, 4 stage leanout what ever that is I think you need to get rid of all that junk, keep it simple and go back to basics.

1. Make sure there is a good vent in tank. 2. Make sure your return lines are big enough and not clogged, I have seen bad hose where there was a flap inside where he messed up putting fitting on so fuel would flow one direction but flap would block fuel other direction. 3. Make sure you have right bypass pressures. (I fought with one for a while a new system and they kept telling me it is all good, the secondary bypass was supposed to be set at 18-20 PSI and do not mess with it. They kept telling me not to worry about it and did not even want to tell me what it was supposed to be set at. Finally I found out what it was supposed to be and it was way off. Fixed it and it ran great.)
Also any leaks in your inlet line to fuel pump will mess you up. Sucks air and changes everything.

Mechanical fuel injection is simple if you understand how it works. It does require good venting, good return lines and proper pump and jets / nozzles.

What is your jets and nozzles at now? Aprrox horsepower?


Like said sucked in tank not literally,just bone ass dry,

.034 to .036 nozzles and way too damn big jet to be rich. Hell should have 8 melted pistons not new plugs coming out of engine.

Like said last night pulling all returns off to check. 6 an returns back to main line . even angled into flow at main so it pulls from it. Foot and half por more before pump. Hell number 8 to hat and 6 should more than handle return of this little shyt pump. Would have to check but think 160 or 170 jet inder pressure would flow the whole freaking pump. Know 140 is over 4 gpm at 150 psi. yes very low at idle but then almost no fuel at idle or should not be.

yes all poppets checked and found had them swapped and though my F-up there was issue almlost no change when corrected..

Not ran numbers but with both jets open probably could bypass 80% of pump and thinking ignition could be issue. If so anyone need two mag 12s in ccw rotation with boxs and one of those new?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,




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Posts: 4632 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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If not for 2.5 hours sleep. Sle scrrwing with me. figuring driver F-up's be issue and basic brain **** I would have trown other mag and box on yesterday. Hell took crank trigger out of it in case of.Should have been clue to look at ignition side more.

Check it all tonight got to go make some more money to throw at it now,l




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Posts: 4632 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Dave Koehler
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Cubic inch?
confusing thread. Looks to me like you are way over center. Way past lean in other words. Burns just enough fuel to run but not enough to burn it up.


Dave Koehler - Koehler Injection - http://www.koehlerinjection.com
Fuel Injection - Nitrous Charger - Nitrous Master Software - Balancing
99% of fuel injection problems are electric.
 
Posts: 383 | Location: Urbana, IL 61802 | Registered: December 03, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Dave Koehler
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Your mag is probably fine.
One way to tell if ignition is fubar.
If you richen it up way up beyond silly and then lean it way down where it should be burning plugs and pistons AND it runs the same, albeit poorly your ignition is toast.


Dave Koehler - Koehler Injection - http://www.koehlerinjection.com
Fuel Injection - Nitrous Charger - Nitrous Master Software - Balancing
99% of fuel injection problems are electric.
 
Posts: 383 | Location: Urbana, IL 61802 | Registered: December 03, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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