How important or necessary is it to have anti drainback valve in an oil filter on a race engine? I understand Wix to be one of the favored brands and see they have options with and without it.

I also notice different brands with pretty big differences in particle filtration. would smaller particle filtration have any considerable effect on any flow rate? I expect that wouldn't really be an issue, but then again, having sat on the sidelines for so long, I do have a lot to learn/re-learn.

If it matters, this is in respect to big block chevy.

Thanks.

I don’t think the valve matters at all when the filter is mounted the way it is on a BBC. I’ve used Wix 51060 or 51061 interchangeably, or the NAPA Gold equivalents.

I’ve never gotten into using the dedicated racing filters that have less filtration but better flow.

Anti drainback comes into play when the filter is mounted sideways, stops the filter from emptying and taking longer to get oi flow into bearings.

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:
Anti drainback comes into play when the filter is mounted sideways, stops the filter from emptying and taking longer to get oi flow into bearings.

Thanks. I figured it wouldn't really matter on this engine. Probably better off using one without. Less stuff to get in the way or go wrong. I knew it was a good idea with my big block mopar stuff back when I was running it. Figure it's worth asking though.

quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:
I don’t think the valve matters at all when the filter is mounted the way it is on a BBC. I’ve used Wix 51060 or 51061 interchangeably, or the NAPA Gold equivalents.

I’ve never gotten into using the dedicated racing filters that have less filtration but better flow.

Thanks. Most likely getting the Wix 51060. I'm wondering how much, if any, the smaller filtration capability may affect flow rates. I'm probably overthinking that stuff, but it's something that popped in my head as I was comparing different filters. Something I also noticed with Wix, they don't have a pressure relief valve. If the media somehow gets plugged up, you have no oil flow, vs still having flow if the relief valve is there, but no filtration. Again, probably overthinking, but curiosity is there.

I prefer flow over filtration. I change oil way sooner than I probably need to so dirty oil is of way less concern to me.

I generally purchase Wix 51061 by the case of 12 from RockAuto. My last purchase was in January 2023 and they were manufactured in USA.

You’d be wise to open the filter package and confirm made in USA that will appear on the filter label. If China made I personally would avoid. Mann+ Hummel own Wix brand and produce world wide. If made in Mexico I’d accept this.

I was just made aware, the oil accumulator I have likely makes it necessary for the anti drainback valve. I had not considered that, but it makes sense.

Here’s a NAPA 1060 (from their website) that is made by Wix and exact same model as Wix 51060. Made in China.

Street type filters filter out much smaller particles of dirt than the Race type filters. Many use the race type filter because they will not clog up and restrict flow as easily.

I use TWO of the very large truck type street filters in parallel so all of the oil has to go through one of the filters but not both. Has about 5 times more surface area than single race type filter and removes all of the small particles to for cleaner oil and no restriction. Adds about 3.5 extra quarts of oil and the weight but I think it is well worth it for good clean oil.

FYI almost all NAPA Gold light duty filters are made by Prime Guard now, from anywhere in the world not from WIX in NC from East coast to the Mississippi.

Anyone using a System 1 oil filter? What is your opinion of them?

I've been using System 1 filters on all my engines for years. I had a paper filter collapse one time on an Alky engine that caused a bearing failure. System 1 filters use to be a decent price but now like everything else are expensive.

I have been using the same System 1 oil filters with 45 micron screens for 15 years and would not use anything else. Never have had any bearing issues on bracket and blown TD engines. I have 2, remove one and install the clean one. Clean and inspect the dirty one afterwards. I also have non bypass plates installed. The way I look at it if the filter is so plugged up that I need the bypass to open then my engine is already junk .

Thanks y'all. I've considered the system one also, still not out of the question. Have a couple of Wix on the way. Funny thing,,, I found a box of Fram filters recently. Don't know if they're mine or my brothers from many years ago. I'll run the part numbers, and if they're Chevy, they're his. If Mopar, mine from the 1990's. 7-8 of them in there. Knowing the Fram reputation, I figured I may hang on to them, in case of emergency. After a little more thought, think I'll try and sell em for a smoking hot deal and stock up on the better alternative. LOL.