My best thinking is done when mowing, driving, or trying to sleep. Going into the Studebaker project I struggled for a while to establish a direction. Now, five months into the project, my thinker has revealed a direction.

I envision driving a country road, wide open, running through the gears, smiling. Or parked a Whataburger or car show or cruise night and exaggerating about the engine size and performance to any audience. Or at the track in footbrake brackets. So, a multi-purpose, fast, mechanically well-done jalopy.

I do not envision an expensive paint job or interior, rather, I envision a stripped-down, bare-bones, hot rod.

So, stay tuned for more.

A friend called saying "come to the Canton swap meet, there is something you need to see." He knew I was looking for a new project. Upon arrival, I had no interest in the car he called about, but a few spots down was the StuFin.

The first order of work was to sort through, pitch, store, and clean up. I rented a pressure washer for a weekend and made excellent progress. I have most of the trim and accessories and the car and parts are in overall good condition.

The basic specs:
* 408 LS engine [4.030 iron block with 4.0 stroke.]
*Custom worked and designed cathedral port heads.
*Carburator on E85 fuel.
*Daytona Sensors LS ignition controller
*Chevy 350, three-speed trans.
*8.8 Ford rear.
*Long ladder bar.
*Rear coil-over shocks. The OE leaf springs will be removed.
*The rear frame will not be modified but some minor sheet metal work will allow a 30 x 11 rear tire.
*The front suspension and steering will be all OE Studebaker.
*Titled and licensed as "Antique" thus allowing limited street driving.

More soon

Rear shock and crossmember mockup.

rear shock

I love it already!

Thanks for sharing the build.

Thats gonna be nice

Very cool. One of my favorite cars

What a great build, thanks for posting Larry.

For the last week or so, I have been sneaking up on the ladder bar cross-member and rear shock cross-member placement. The fitment for both is tedious because the frame sides are not parallel in either area. I considered adding some plates that would make the fit up parallel, but after pondering, I decided it would be best to have the cross-members fit snuggly to the frame. So, I am about there, and since I have no timeline, all is well. Once it is all fitted and welded, and painted, I will post photos.

The rear frame and suspension work will finish in a few weeks, and we will turn to other areas.

Also, before removing the original rear axle assembly, I measured and noted the location for reference. And the original leaf springs are still in place, being used as an alignment fixture. Once all components are accurately located, the leaf springs will be removed.

Larry, I can't wait to see the finished project.
I like the vision you have for it.

I have a High School friend, "TD" we had the same algebra teacher, Ms. Hill, and the same geometry teacher, Mr. Gallavan. We have been rod rodders, builders, car buffs, and buddies for about 65 years. Often, we will speak kindly about Ms. Hill and Mr. Gallavan about some of the lessons they taught us.

TD was just here, and I explained that we are near the point of strings, plumb bobs, levels, angle finders, and measuring tapes. The engine and rear housing location are roughed in, so the precision placement begins.

Note LS plastic block for construction purposes.

Also, note the odd Studebaker bell crank steering setup. I am leaving it alone for now, but installing a rack and pinion is an option.

The front motor plate sits on the original front engine brackets about 3" rearward. The first checking shows it will be around 1/2" lower in the front than what is mocked up now.

Cool build but Larry you know they even got away from bellcrank steering on jr dragsters hahaha

"stylish" front plate.

Way cool build but ya I would go with the rack n pinion-neat motor !plate