quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
ATI’s strong hold is stock/super stock, not bracket racing and not dragsters

Why did you use them before and you were a dealer for ATI?

I've done well in my cars with ATI converters bracket racing.

How is BTE better?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: M120,

Also, getting back on subject, what is the consensus on a high and low gear TB valve body?

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:

I like the idea of aluminum valve coated. What about a composite valve like what sonnax is selling in their zip kits they make for the newer transmissions?

A properly sized hard coat anodized valve should work fine in that application. If chipping is a concern, any of the high zoot aluminum shock bore coatings should also be suitable.

quote:

Originally posted by Rick!:

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:

I like the idea of aluminum valve coated. What about a composite valve like what sonnax is selling in their zip kits they make for the newer transmissions?

A properly sized hard coat anodized valve should work fine in that application. If chipping is a concern, any of the high zoot aluminum shock bore coatings should also be suitable.

We normally do not see chipping in aluminum valvebodies in o.e. cars. The new cars do over work the converter, and it puts a lot of converter trash (clutch lining and fine metal) into valvebody. Only thing we see is very worn bores and sloppy valves. On Fords, we replace the valvebody with new o.e. because its cheaper than the zip kits. The GM valvebodies are more expensive than our billet valvebodies we use in the glides, so we rebuild the valvebodies with the zip kits. In our world, if you never chip a gear set, or tear a converter up, the valvebody will be good until the pressure regulator spring wears and bore wears out.

Again, some here are trying to fix a problem that doesn’t exist and most if not all of them don’t currently have an aluminum valve body.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
Again, some here are trying to fix a problem that doesn’t exist and most if not all of them don’t currently have an aluminum valve body.

I dont believe an aluminum valvebody will last no where near as long as the iron stuff does if nothing goes wrong, and sure as hell isnt going to take a converter coming apart and contaimenating the system like an iron valvebody. The problem is, an aftermarket steel casting is alot more expensive to make and machine. Cores are almost non existent.

It’s nearly 2022, the days of cast iron valve bodies are over, not coming back. Aluminum valve bodies are here to stay and soon will be our only option. Further they have been in use from several companies for over a decade largely without issue. As to longevity, if you’re looking for them to last 50 years like their oem counter parts, ain’t gonna happen but nothing built over the last few decades is intended to last “forever”

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
It’s nearly 2022, the days of cast iron valve bodies are over, not coming back. Aluminum valve bodies are here to stay and soon will be our only option. Further they have been in use from several companies for over a decade largely without issue. As to longevity, if you’re looking for them to last 50 years like their oem counter parts, ain’t gonna happen but nothing built over the last few decades is intended to last “forever”

AMEN!!!!

The car is 75% of winning legitimately, issues within the car can be anywhere from the front bumper to the rear.

If I don't win at a high rate per entry, it is because the car is not without issues.

To say without issue is a matter of perspective.

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:
I dont believe an aluminum valvebody will last no where near as long as the iron stuff does if nothing goes wrong, and sure as hell isnt going to take a converter coming apart and contaimenating the system like an iron valvebody. The problem is, an aftermarket steel casting is alot more expensive to make and machine. Cores are almost non existent.

They could be machined from steel no tougher to do than aluminum, not make a casting to machine. My machines don't really care as long as I get the feeds and speeds correct. The thing on a ferrous part is that if you made it out of the cheaper steel it would move around/warp and the material you would need to use is too expensive compared to 6061. Better aluminum could be used but again too expensive. coatings could be used but they may not be necessary and runs up the cost.

They are being made for the masses so they aren't gong to use 70 series aluminum for a bracket car.

My issue with the Coan al. VB. was just really a sizing problem.

The bore for the solenoid valve to push into was to tight. Not enough clearance for the valve to freely move in and pressure is supposed to drive it back out but it was sticking when all the way in.

My only tool to slightly enlarge the bore was a Sunnen valve guide hone.

The stone on those does not go all the way to the end of the mandrel.

Could not get all the way in that bore.

Sanding the steel valve in my lathe with some fine grit paper repeatedly was what I did.

Coan uses the enclosed solenoid. You could hear it click to apply but can’t see or hear it release like the open style solenoid.

Though it was ok after shimming it as much as possible

Nope ! Would not release until trans was warmed up. That happened first time out but resolved after that initial problem

After that it always worked but as I said earlier, pro tree RT’s were not even equal to the iron fluid exhaust VB that was in that trans.

Going back to an ATD iron VB brought RT’s back where they were

The Coan is a real nice unit. Probably 6061....Adjustable pressure regulator built right on it

My plan was to try it again after pulling that same trans apart to go thru it

It’s been slower reacting in general from day one.

Case needs recertification anyway.

Gonna be months before any of that happens, if at all !

I used everything ATI for years and right now have a complete trans and converter from them in the car--conventional. I also have in the shop a complete trans with that wicked quick aluminum valve body that has never worked right. After 2 trips back not fixing it they had me send in just the valve body. They sent me a new one and it still sits uninstalled. Pain to R&R a trans over and over. By the way when I was having this trouble Greg from FTI contacted me and said that he could fix it. I thought that was pretty gracious but never took him up on it....I may try it some day, maybe.

Curtis is spot on and FWIW - Im another vote for “no concern”.....providing the product is properly designed.

Some of you guys are simply over thinking this, IMO…

Im not saying that someone could not have had premature or unexplained failure, but if so, then I would be looking at the alloy material, as in grade or purity. Billet comes in several types. The material chosen by the manufacture would be the difference here (hence - properly designed). Even 6061 has different hardness's affecting machinability and dimensional retention.

Maybe this will help provide some overview on that; https://www.metalsupermarkets....sing-aluminum-grade/

I have a billet Hipster in one application just for the 7 lbs savings…and so far so good......No, I have no idea what material was chosen for that VB when produced.

Is anyone making replacement solenoids for the Griner billet VB with internal solenoid?