Tried methanol and I have milky oil. Drained it and put it into a clear container and it doesn't separate. How do you tell if it's water or alky? Will the water, if there is any stay suspended with the alky and not separate?
I think my problem is not enough heat.

Yes, heat what you have and that should facilitate separation. When you have "milky" you have an invert-emulsion. That is oil (the external phase) surrounding water droplets. Again, heat what you have and see how that works for you

Is it not enough heat? Water boils at 212, how hot and how long to hold the temp there before it all evaporates? Or is it just a fat carb / injection? I'm just asking because i'm unsure. I had a jug of drained oil from 10 years ago and just disposed of it last year and it never separated in 10 years.

Fix the tune up.

Agreed, milky oil is too fat of a tune... Even my buddy Danny doesn't milk the oil on his stuff and he's running a blown alky combo....keeps it slightly fat but no issues with oil....

Trust me I want to fix the tuneup!!!
Rupert 750 on a 355 sbc 10 passes and I have milky oil. I'm at 144 square for jets. It will build heat while running, it gains 5-7* making a pass. I have a leanout valve on it. I might not be getting it hot enough, was staging in the 140's and I didn't get it very hot before putting it away

Eman, on my car I pull out of the staging lanes at 150 and only run the waterpump, burnout and stage around 154-155 and 160 at the turn. Always take the car to 180-190 at the end of the day and my oil is never milky. some change there oil ever 30-40 passes but I change 3 times a year and the engine is on its 3rd year without being apart. I only use the fan if its late rounds and driving back from the ET booth then cut everything off. with the car warmed to 150 running just the fan set idle screws so the car will only build 1-3 degrees over a couple minutes and it will cool down about the same if I turn the fan on. really depends on the radiator but I think you will be close on idle tune there. If the car stumbles only richen 1/8 turn at a time.

I run injection with the primer plus. The primer plus helps a lot. The other big thing is running it up to 180 before you put it away.

I wasn't running the fan until after the pass. I guess I need to be staging at a higher temp and really heating it at the end of the day. This pan doesn't have a temp sensor for the oil, next motor will.
Idles screws are exactly 1 1/2 turns from bottomed. They aren't responsive, even with the engine hot it takes almost closing a screw to see a change. Car has no stumble even footbraking. The squirters are as they came from Rupert and they gauge out at .063.

quote:

Originally posted by Canted Valve:
Yes, heat what you have and that should facilitate separation. When you have "milky" you have an invert-emulsion. That is oil (the external phase) surrounding water droplets. Again, heat what you have and see how that works for you

When I get a chance I'm going to heat it just as a science experiment. I don't plan on using! I guess when you get it hot enough the alcohol will eveaporate and leave the oil and any water, or will the water stay with he alcohol when it evaporates.

Water will evaporate out of the oil also.

You can lean it out on the return road after the run and build heat to help keep your oil clean. Just gauge how long before you expect to run again to determine how hot to get it, so it's easy to achieve your target temp when rolling into the burnout box.

I always roll out of the staging lanes with my car at 160 deg. It's the temp that I've found that I can get to whether it's a long time between rounds, or I'm getting hot-lapped.

A vacuum pump will keep your oil clean. I wouldn't run an Alky car without one.

Most of the milking is done at idle and low RPM. Lean down the idle mixture. Tune the main jets with ET and MPH only. Just be careful when you lean down the idle mixture to where it warms up quickly and does not use much fuel or milk the oil when air gets good like in Fall the car may stumble at the hit. If air gets good just open up the idle mixture a 1/4 turn or so to be safe. Also when your idle mixture is right the squirter nozzles must be right to or it may spit or stumble.

Also yes, water boils at 212* but lower than that under vacuum and also alcohol boils out at around 165* One other thing your oil temp may be hotter than your water temps.

What I do is right after my last pass I will lean it down on the return road and start building heat in the motor. You want to get water temps up over 210* or so and it will boil water out and clear the oil up.

I don't have an O2 sensor yet but I do have an EGT on #1 cyl. Only seeing 980 max making a pass. I know it's not an exact thing but that seemed cool to me.

You can put oil in metal container and slowly heat and water will cook out. Go easy on the heat rate

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:
When I get a chance I'm going to heat it just as a science experiment. I don't plan on using! I guess when you get it hot enough the alcohol will eveaporate and leave the oil and any water, or will the water stay with he alcohol when it evaporates.

A long time ago I left the rear of my car jacked up for some time and it siphoned fuel into the bottom end. I caught it before running and put the oil in a large SS bowl on a hotplate. Got it up to just under 300° and let if boil for quite a while. This oil had been run in the car previously. Put it back in the car and ran it with zero problems. This was Amsoil although the brand has no bearing on anything just that it was a synthetic.

I believe you are rich on the main if you are only 980°. Both Rupert carbs I have been involved with were pretty rich on the idle circuit, the main is like any other you have to tune for your combination.

Curtis

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:

quote:

Originally posted by Canted Valve:
Yes, heat what you have and that should facilitate separation. When you have "milky" you have an invert-emulsion. That is oil (the external phase) surrounding water droplets. Again, heat what you have and see how that works for you

When I get a chance I'm going to heat it just as a science experiment. I don't plan on using! I guess when you get it hot enough the alcohol will eveaporate and leave the oil and any water, or will the water stay with he alcohol when it evaporates.

Guys next door with their TAD always took their cooker to the track for cleaning the oil. Just in case. Looked like an electric crock pot @ 1500 Watts. Saved a bunch of money.

Like others have said, 140 is too cold to start with.
I stage mine 160-170 on injection and always get it up to 200 before putting it away.

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:
Tried methanol and I have milky oil. Drained it and put it into a clear container and it doesn't separate. How do you tell if it's water or alky? Will the water, if there is any stay suspended with the alky and not separate?
I think my problem is not enough heat.

How do you tell if it is water or alky? It is both and yes part of your problem is not enough heat. The other part of it is you are too fat at IDLE and low RPM.

Does not have to be hard, lean the idle mixture down and warm it up real good before putting it away.

As for EGT it is useless in my opinion. O2 are good or tune by ET and MPH.

If those idle screws make no difference....I'm wondering if the blades are open pretty far at idle. Might be into a different circuit? I am far from a carb expert.