Batteries are only 3 months old and I took them off and had them checked.
Whenever I hit the key to engage the starter all I get is one “clunk” for lack of a better word then nothing.
I also tried shorting across the solenoid once and same thing.
Does this sound like the starter is out or ?????

Not on a truck, but I’ve had a locked up A/C compressor prevent the engine from turning over.

I did change the starter before getting to the bottom of it!

"When you shorted across the starter solenoid did you get the major sparking? If so, you probably have a full 12v to the starter.... That would leave only the starter bad.....Except for the cost, a starter is easy to replace. Might as well start there."

This message has been edited. Last edited by: imakehp,

sounds like hydro lock possibly

Try putting a breaker bar and socket on crank bolt and see if you can move it if not release belt tension and try again if engine moves look for locked up ac compressor or alternator if moves at first try a starter is this a 7.3 or 6.0

Is the engine free, try the breaker bar deal. I had one Powerstroke that had porosity in the cylinder wall and would hydro lock. If I let it sit for a while it would start and run but there would be coolant in the oil.

Tap on the starter while a trusted assistant hits the key.
You're probably hearing the solenoid engage the drive, worn brushes or a dead spot on the commutator preventing the starter motor from motoring?

DON'T get a NAPA reman starter....go genuine Motorcraft.

I caught one of our techs getting ready to install a NAPA reman, questioned that decision, and got a good laugh after the second NAPA unit came back off to be exchanged for a genuine Motorcraft unit, 3 hours later.

I don't know about a Power Stroke in this situation. But on a Cummins you can put a socket on the alternator and turn the engine backwards.

It’s a 7.3, if it is hydro lock what do I do about that?

quote:

It’s a 7.3, if it is hydro lock what do I do about that?

trying to manually turn the motor will give an indicator of lock.if so the source will be in the head somewhere,plugs,injector seal ect.

quote:

Originally posted by fastracer482:
It’s a 7.3, if it is hydro lock what do I do about that?

If it's hydro locked best to figure out which cylinder to start. Pull the glow plugs and spin the engine and look for coolant shooting out. Pressure test and see if you get coolant in a cylinder. The one I had would only hydro the cylinder if the piston stopped in the right spot below the porosity. If it was above coolant went into the pan.

To ensure it isn't hydro locked you could try turning it backwards to expel any fuel or water that is causing it. If you can, then check injectors for leaking and or check for coolant getting in the cylinder. If it's fuel that is what the blower guys do prior to starting (backing it down). Hydro static lock will bend a rod if it happens just right. Had that issue at times on military equipment.

Dave

Eman, treed me..LOL

Dave

I will try the breaker bar tonight.
Anyone know the correct socket size off hand?
I’m gonna guess it’s metric…

quote:

Originally posted by fastracer482:
I will try the breaker bar tonight.
Anyone know the correct socket size off hand?
I’m gonna guess it’s metric…

The first 3 Google results say 15/16". 24mm will also work.

Short socket with short extension, or just a deep socket.

Don't overlook the value of a Borescope / Endoscope to inspects the cylinders. Basic units are very cheap, work well and interface with your phone.

Thank you sir.

Take starter off and have checked if you haven't already. Motorcraft only for replacement!! Also check battery ground on front of engine block. I had to move mine as I was having a issues cranking over.

Check battery cable to starter and smaller trigger wire.

May I suggest the powermaster hi-torque starter for any 7.3. (May not be the op’s issue) Not sure on longevity only had mine a year, but it spins much faster and starts easier.