quote:

Originally posted by adv ET 266:
Have you tried a second proven cast iron valve body yet, complete.

The glide came with a cast iron valve body but, no, I have not tried another one...I just put on FTI's billet aluminum piece...

Thanks for all the replies folks...I am going to try to footbrake it at the New Years Nationals...after that we plan to disconnect the two step, bring the rpm's up with my foot and launch with the button...doing this on the outside chance the MSD 6AL2 is goofy...we'll see...

See you there Fuzz ball

If you could borrow a Racepak Sportsman, I could set you up with a pressure sensor on the reverse port of the case and a 12 volt event wire on the TB solenoid.

This would show the time between those two events and the G-meter (which shows when the car actually moves). And most importantly, if the pressure stays on the reverse port too long.

Another method would be to hook a light to the TB solenoid and rig a GoPro that would capture your finger off the button and the light.

quote:

Originally posted by fuzzy dice:No playback tach...but...when I let go the two step stops...this tells us the electronics are working but we cannot find the issue there...at least not yet....sigh...

At WOT, if you let go of the TB button and the Ignition 2-step turns OFF allowing the engine rpm to accelerate freely and the car is not moving it is NOT electrical.

No +12v at the ignition launch input, means NO +12v at the transbrake solenoid.

If you want, you can add a 10 amp rated diode to the TB solenoid to remove the flyback voltage. I diode everything coil related, but am running Holley also.

Your problem is mechanical not electrical.

It sounds mechanical. Does it happen early in the day or after the trans gets hot? Any chance of swapping transmissions?

Definitely sounds mechanical. I would see if anyone has a transmission you could put in and try to see if you can make it do it.

Are you supplying 12v to the solenoid through a relay?

I think the gopro and test light/meter at the solenoid and button view would be my next step. You will see frame by frame what is going on. We are talking dc voltage, so I would want to be sure no emi down stream from the ignition control could be possible, all depending on wiring configuration.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Are you supplying 12v to the solenoid through a relay?

Good question, is the button wired direct to the solenoid or anything else tied in?

OK...when I let go and it hesitates, the two step has stopped...this leads one to believe it is mechanical...I still have my doubts however...just a gut thing...we have tested both the button and solenoid and both work correctly...sigh...

There is no relay to the solenoid...it has happened in the first round and in the seventh round...nothing else is tied into teh wire to the solenoid...a friend of mine suggested a light that goes on when I let go with a go pro to catch the delay...

quote:

Originally posted by fuzzy dice: OK...when I let go and it hesitates, the two step has stopped...this leads one to believe it is mechanical...I still have my doubts however...just a gut thing...we have tested both the button and solenoid and both work correctly

I suggest you call MSD and ask to speak to Joe Pando. I consider him an expert on MSD ignition.

Explain your problem, how the launch input to ignition and TB solenoid are wired to your activation button, and ask his opinion.

The very first trans brake VB I bought was a TCI around 1983-1984

It hesitated noticeably

I’d let go of the button and easily could feel a delay of .05 or more.

I gave all my trans parts to a then new start up trans company.

Told him to build me a trans but DO NOT use that TCI VB/brake

He did anyway and it was the same story

I ditched the TCI and put something else in that trans. and the problem was gone.

It’s experiences like that that make me always do my own stuff when ever possible

Not the first or last time I’ve had trans trouble.

I had a bent transbrake valve that would hang every so often. It would move free in the bore and every once in a while would catch. I would inspect the valve for abnormal wear and roll it on the table to see if its straight. I chase this issue for a while before I happened across it.

https://www.bteracing.com/products/BTE2295

It could still be electrical. Had a intermitened miss one time could not locate it finally rewired ignition proublem solved even if a wire ohms good it can still be bad/ I would rewire all the trans brake with a ground from case to chassis.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Originally posted by fuzzy dice: OK...when I let go and it hesitates, the two step has stopped...this leads one to believe it is mechanical...I still have my doubts however...just a gut thing...we have tested both the button and solenoid and both work correctly

I suggest you call MSD and ask to speak to Joe Pando. I consider him an expert on MSD ignition.

Explain your problem, how the launch input to ignition and TB solenoid are wired to your activation button, and ask his opinion.

I spoke with MSD yesterday for the second time...it was not Joe Pando, however...all he said was it was "possible" my 6AL2 could be an issue...I'll call again when I get back from teh New Years Nationals...

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
The very first trans brake VB I bought was a TCI around 1983-1984

It hesitated noticeably

I’d let go of the button and easily could feel a delay of .05 or more.

I gave all my trans parts to a then new start up trans company.

Told him to build me a trans but DO NOT use that TCI VB/brake

He did anyway and it was the same story

I ditched the TCI and put something else in that trans. and the problem was gone.

It’s experiences like that that make me always do my own stuff when ever possible

Not the first or last time I’ve had trans trouble.

I have an FTI glide, converter, valve body and solenoid...maybe a different brand solenoid is teh answer...who knows?...

quote:

Originally posted by vetman:
It could still be electrical. Had a intermitened miss one time could not locate it finally rewired ignition proublem solved even if a wire ohms good it can still be bad/ I would rewire all the trans brake with a ground from case to chassis.

WE re-wired the trans brake circuit and ran a new ground from the solenoid to the negative terminal on the battery 3 weeks ago...no help...this after re-wiring the entire entire car professionally 18 months ago...

YOU SAID THAT YOU HAVE A BRACKET T.B. VALVEBODY....NO BUTTON REVERSE..CORRECT.??...MOST OF THOSE HAVE A SPOOL PIECE THAT IS LARGER THAN A PRO BRAKE..BUTTON REVERSE

UPON RELEASE OF THE T.B. BUTTON...THAT LARGER SPOOL PIECE GOES IN THE SOLENOID HOLE VOID SPACE...BUT..SOMETIMES IT DOESN'T..DEPENDING ON THE CASE..YOU SAID J.W.

RIGHT..IT WILL COME IN CONTACT WITH THE INSIDE OF THE CASE IF THINGS AREN'T PERFECT..IT WILL THEN RELEASE REAL SLOW & YOUR LIGHTS ARE ALL OVER THE PLACE...I

WON'T NAME CASE'S OR VALVEBODIES..BUT ONE CASE I KNOW FOR SURE..HAS DRILLED THE SOLENOID & TAPPED HOLE ABOUT..050 OFF CENTER...I'VE SEEN THIS AT LEAST 6 TIMES

MY CUSTOMERS PREFER THE NO BUTTON VALVEBODY..HAD TO FIX THIS 6 TIMES...HAD TO LEARN BY PISSED OFF PEOPLE THAT THEIR LIGHTS WERE WAY OFF & SOME SAID THAT UPON

RELEASE THE CAR DIDN'T MOVE RIGHT AWAY...HOPE THIS HELPS..DK.

MY CUSTOMERS PREFER THE NO BUTTON VALVEBODY..HAD TO FIX THIS 6 TIMES...HAD TO LEARN BY PISSED OFF PEOPLE THAT THEIR LIGHTS WERE WAY OFF & SOME SAID THAT UPON

RELEASE THE CAR DIDN'T MOVE RIGHT AWAY...HOPE THIS HELPS..DK.

I have an FTI glide, converter and billet aluminum valve body and a JW ultra bell case...my trans brake is a sportsman style needing no button for reverse...

I just raced the new years nationals and made 9 passes off the button with no issues whatsoever...go figure!...