While not many replys on friction and drag reduction. I did get good tip fro Dave on Tybstgen Disulfide or ws2 for friction. Figured maybe get same on weight reduction. Most know love it when find cheap way to reduce weight.

Doing somecleanup last weak that curious thing get me weight few different nuts and bolts and looking at waht could change on car.

They mnake a short castle or plastic slocknut, whiule not near grip on bolt as regular lock nut they do hole and work good in none sgtress. They weigh loess tghan 40% which is minor and measured in .--oz. Found enough places I could use a dozen of them on car, added up with 1/4 pound or so. Never see it on e unless do 50 times but it adds up.

If look at caqr most of time will find fasgteners oversized for job, A 1/4-28 allen weighs lot more than 10-32 bolt and nut combo and a weld weights less but pain to change.

A drill but will make lots of very minor savings with little to no effect on strenght if watch where and when used. Always used the 100 oer pound rulke and now days more like 150 per lb. So everytime I drop a lb I figure I saved 150 bucks or made that by tinkering instead of watching tv.

My car has exhaust port extention plates that increase flow a good amount. Made of 3/4 aluminum. Dang weighed 4lbs eac=h, key word weoghed. Now they are at 2lbs-6 oz each after 30 minutes on mill, that times 2 and savings of 3 lbs 4 oz, hell that good payday for lazy Sunday afgter noon.

So any good savings find other than not owning a race car? So any good weight savings that where cheap?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,

overlooked weight>
A lot of cars still have auto parts store wire on them. You know, the 16 gauge with a thick outer insulation like it was Chernobyl bound.

16 ga TXL or GXL wire is lighter, smaller in diameter and bends nicely into place.
Study your schematics and power requirements for the various electronics.
Many times you can drop to 18 or 20 gauge wire.
Some things can use as small as 22 gauge.
Waytek wire is one place to look up the specs and also purchase.

How many Tie Wraps does it take to secure wiring in a tube car? A whole bunch when wiring up the first time with more than half winding up on the floor.
In the final phase use smaller tie wraps wherever possible. A gram here, a gram there and pretty soon you have an ounce.

Check on the weight of the hoses. A lot of the black braided hoses are lighter than the shiny stainless. As long as it meets pressure and fluid resistance specs. it seems like a no brainer.

quote:

Originally posted by Dave Koehler:
overlooked weight>
A lot of cars still have auto parts store wire on them. You know, the 16 gauge with a thick outer insulation like it was Chernobyl bound.

16 ga TXL or GXL wire is lighter, smaller in diameter and bends nicely into place.
Study your schematics and power requirements for the various electronics.
Many times you can drop to 18 or 20 gauge wire.
Some things can use as small as 22 gauge.
Waytek wire is one place to look up the specs and also purchase.


How many Tie Wraps does it take to secure wiring in a tube car? A whole bunch when wiring up the first time with more than half winding up on the floor.
In the final phase use smaller tie wraps wherever possible. A gram here, a gram there and pretty soon you have an ounce.

Check on the weight of the hoses. A lot of the black braided hoses are lighter than the shiny stainless. As long as it meets pressure and fluid resistance specs. it seems like a no brainer.

Dave.
You are on in very small handfull that agree with me on it adds up No will never see 3oz savings on a time slip. Now if you do 3 oz here qnd 5 oz there and doo 50 times it will be good amount. Bet most hre woule be amazed at how much weight can be cut for little works and very little money. I know it is bracket car. So that means it need to be heavy? Pretty sure the lighter the car means less to get going ans should make for consistent all other things being equal.

Bolts are another place of dead weight, After one thread out nut everything else ios dead weight. Do you need a 3/8 bolt and nut to hold a bracket on the car?More than ;likely a 10x32 or 1/4x28 will more than do the job. Frone spindles on dragsterexample. So aluminum plate holding King pin from jumping out needs 4 5/16 blots to hold it down with no fporce against it? 4 to 6 mlore than needed.
Again a drillbit can be your freind. One 3/8 hole in .058 molly tubing is nothing 60 of them is same as 3.5" solid 3.8 rod

Weighed car last week starting line ready with me in it 1685 lbs.. I know can get it down 15 by not eating food I should not eat anyway. I am working on one piece that will drop 20 lbs off existing and at cost of about 100 bucks in materials. Reworking another I made and now figured out way to make lot lighter and should be aroun 8#.

Aluinum sheet metal. ,050 to ,040 saves 20% if add a bead rolled into it actually stronger than .050

Probably swapping out mag. for msd 6 or 7 and going the distributorless would save good amount but damn that one woule be hard for me to do

My old burndown tubes swapped for slip and twist lock tube setup is around a pound.

I can drop 14 lbs swapping front wheels. But that one big bite out of rear pocket about 100 per pound and not sure not need it on front anyway.

One thing screwed up on. Front of FED should be built .049 instead of .058. 80' of tubing and that nothing .009 adds up, ,01 per foot.

If making a piece that can be tapped instead of using a nut and little to no stress . Lower cost and weight. Win win skip chicken dinner.

I would be interested to see if the mag setup is actually heavier that a box, distributor, coil and all the corresponding wire that goes with it.
Then there is the question of the battery.
Is it necessary to be on board for the class you run?

Battery yes and no. To run bracket deal yes. I can shut switch off,remove batery40 lbs and connect to quick connect at switch and crank car. Have a 20 battery converion that can be wired to car in about 1 minute to run ecverything else.

Not sure what a control box and coil weigh I can check mag and control boz which in case of mag 12 has coile built in, Now with MSD 44 you have seperate coil,

If I did eltronic ignition I would go with belt driven rototr with a cap, wires, coil and box, For me only upside is parts available at track. I had a box go bad last year and if not for having another setup in cabinet I would have been dead in the water. Now need another box and for cost I could buy 7al.coil and new wires. Already have cranktrigger on car.

Might should have added it is MSD mag earlier and they are heavier than Mallory stuff and I had while past enough of those on funny before got msd.Hell carring 6 or 8 in trailer at all times back then.

Probably only trailer in pits with a force gauge in trailer.

Anybody know weight of 6 or 7AL and coil?

Simple google check on Dacve's commenton wire
16ga wire to 20 ga wire. A difference of .,05 oz and same 18ga weighs ,125. Yea only ,o75 oz nothing but how many feet of it? Hell todays bracket car with bells and whistles is gaining on daily driver wiring wise.

Another upside is smaller wire normally cheaper per foot. So save money and dead weight at same time. Same as my deal on bolt sizing. No extra work, kless cost and less weight, Winner Iwinner steak dinner.