quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:

quote:

Originally posted by Wooley:
How does going to neutral hurt the rods? Doing so removes the load from them as motor goes to idle and doesn't use compression like a jake brake.

Exactly. Although I think they like to get longer on decel

I never put it in neutral and my bearings always look perfect. I am not sure if there is any REAL proof it makes any difference at all.

I still think the Shogun style fan that goes between the flexplate and converter is a good idea. Moves a lot of air around converter.

That's all a different debate. I just responded that in no way does neutralling hurt the rods. I also responded that perhaps my lower trans fluid temp could be partially due to not using the engine to slow the vehicle.

quote:

Originally posted by Wooley:
How does going to neutral hurt the rods? Doing so removes the load from them as motor goes to idle and doesn't use compression like a jake brake.

Well, your reading comprehension isn't great but I'll explain. Going to neutral slows the fluid from going thru the process resulting in higher fluid temps. Not going to neutral keeps the fluid moving and allows it to circulate helping to lower the fluid temperature.

Going to neutral saves the additional stress put on the rods instead of using the engine to help slow down.

So, I'd rather throw it in neutral and have higher transmission temps that would hopefully mean that you're changing the fluid more often, than I would to leave it in gear and have a diminished life on the rods.

I'm here for you if you need further help.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Roger McGinnis,

quote:

Originally posted by Roger McGinnis:

quote:

Originally posted by Wooley:
How does going to neutral hurt the rods? Doing so removes the load from them as motor goes to idle and doesn't use compression like a jake brake.

Well, your reading comprehension isn't great but I'll explain. Going to neutral slows the fluid from going thru the process resulting in higher fluid temps. Not going to neutral keeps the fluid moving and allows it to circulate helping to lower the fluid temperature.

Going to neutral saves the additional stress put on the rods instead of using the engine to help slow down.

So, I'd rather throw it in neutral and have higher transmission temps that would hopefully mean that you're changing the fluid more often, than I would to leave it in gear and have a diminished life on the rods.

I'm here for you if you need further help.

Your original comment immediately followed two people saying that they go to neutral at the stripe and have lower trans fluid temperatures as a result, so I interpreted your comment the same way that they did.

quote:

Originally posted by dtye:
I just want to know why the Koolverter page has a picture of my Gran Prix on it!LOL I think Dennis used to own my car.

If that is your Grand Prix on the page then yes, Dennis used to own your car.

quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:


Your original comment immediately followed two people saying that they go to neutral at the stripe and have lower trans fluid temperatures as a result, so I interpreted your comment the same way that they did.

Well, not exactly (see bold),,,,,,,,,,,,,,, but there isn't an option as to where you can insert your comments.

Didn't mean to derail thread. I was just stating my experience with my car. Yours may be different, ok. I still will use what has worked for me for 20+ years. Seems that same deal works for others. Sorry if I made my statement unclear. Carry on. I see in my original post that I said I don't shift to neutral. I ment to type that I do shift to neutral. Again sorry for the unclear post.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Wooley,

Too bad ****** isn’t around to tuen this thing into a real train wreck. Never would have guessed we would have gone down the “neutral at the stripe” alley with this one.

Come to think of it, since I switched to Hoosiers, pretty sure I only had to run the leaf blower half as long as I did with eMpTies

Maybe because I had a lot more aborted runs

Just a thought but don’t you think driving the car back would spread the heat throughout the whole trans which would mean an overall lower temp and also a larger area the heat is spread throughout the faster it will cool? My thinking is you are keeping all the heat in the converter and harder to pull all that heat out of small area. I am sure I am not as fast as you but have fun my car without a cooler and drive it everywhere at track without issues.

If I'm reading correctly you don't have a trans cooler (?) If you have the space, and a few pounds added weight isn't a problem put a mediumish cooler on it with a fan. I had my gauge in the outlet going to the cooler. The gauge would literally jump 100 degrees in the first 60 feet. Even if you only run the car while going down the track I suspect a cooler would make a noticeable difference.

The fluid exits the converter out of the top fitting on the case. A cooler would result in much cooler fluid getting "back" to the convertor a second or 2 later.

Right, no cooler. Fired in the puddle, shutoff at the stripe. I figure keeping all the heat in the converter actually makes it easier to cool in the pits, just the leaf blower is mildly inconvenient (and really loud). I don’t really nelieve that an onboard fluid cooler would be a fixall, but I think the onboard fan on the converter will be.

Im either going to try the koolverter deal or buy something similar from McMaster and mount it myself (might add a couple more on the heads while I’m at it).

This is going to be a T/S car eventually and the whole reason I went to blown alky for fast bracket racing in the first place (over nitrous) was to kick back and eat a sandwich beteeen rounds. The leaf blower routine kinda cuts into my snack time.

Yup, Mine's loud too! but...were at a race track. I tie wrapped a 12"x12" piece of mat as a base so it don't move around, and keep it on low if I have more time. Start it and walk away.

Your fluid gets hot, and you aren't running a trans cooler? Well, ok then. You will have to cool it in the pits.

Anyone try putting holes in the bell housing (in the prescribed location) to let the heat escape..?? I did this on my old dragster but that was with a stock case PG. Now that I have a high dollar Ried case I'm a little reluctant to start drilling holes.

quote:

Originally posted by Richie:
I went the El Cheapo' route myself, gas powered leaf blower w/ gutter piping to the center of car to a tee sending air to converter and the pan. I can drop 20* in less than 10 minutes. Works for me.

That might work until round robin lol

quote:

Originally posted by Thurston:
Anyone try putting holes in the bell housing (in the prescribed location) to let the heat escape..?? I did this on my old dragster but that was with a stock case PG. Now that I have a high dollar Ried case I'm a little reluctant to start drilling holes.

I often wondered about doing that and mounting a couple small cans over the holes.

I do believe that if you cut or drill holes in the trans bell housing, you will void the SFI inspection and safety features of the transmission and/or the bell housing. And thus, ruin an expensive piece that will need to be replaced.

I guess I just don't understand the logic in NOT having a trans fluid cooler on the car. Even a small one without a fan is better than nothing.

If I remember right when I purchased my Ried case it came with instruction on where and how big the holes could be made. The inside of the bell housing even has marks cast into it to mark the correct location. Supposedly this is legal as long as the location and size is correct Don't have an NHRA rule book anymore or I would check to see if I'm blowing smoke or not.

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Originally posted by Wild Wild West 2:

I guess I just don't understand the logic in NOT having a trans fluid cooler on the car. Even a small one without a fan is better than nothing.

What’s the point? I’ll still have to blow the converter off in the pits, just for a slightly shorter time.