I have to cool my converter down if I make more than 2-3 runs in one day. Currently I use a very loud leaf blower that is a bit of a pain to get pointed inside the bell (tube chassis door car). Usually it takes about 15-20 minutes to get it down to where I want it.

I have been thinking about ways to get this functionality on board the car and connected to a switch so I can start the cooling on the return road. Anybody ever done this?

I run the Jones trans cooling pump system. ATI and FIT both make pumps that you can modify the trans to use also. All three cool the convertor.

I have the Jones cooling system as well. I can double my car and still keep the temp down.

Is something like this what you are looking for?

Be interested if anyone else has tried one of these?

KoolVerter

How many people with dragsters use a cooling system or fan with their dragster? I have never really noticed a need to cool down my converter or trans in mine, wasn't sure if most people putting on the cooling stuff is in door cars where it wouldn't get as much ambient air around the whole trans..

I run 2 trans coolers on my dragster my temp never gets hot. Usually around 175. Both have fans but only run one of them.

DaleH, Thanks for the link, that seems like an excellent idea.

quote:

Originally posted by DaleH:
Is something like this what you are looking for?

Be interested if anyone else has tried one of these?

KoolVerter

Yep, that is probably what I need.

The car doesn’t run long enough to bother with a standard cooler in the loop and the Jones deal just seems like overkill for me personally.

I had the same temp problem in the dragster as I do now in the door car. From ambient, the converter will be 220-230 when I get back to the pits. I went three passes in about 5 hours once without cooling and cooked he fluid. Converter surface was about 250 by the time i measured it and the fluid smelled trrrible.

If I drive back the converter temp goes way down but then the trans starts to heat soak. Easier to just blow the heat out of the converter.

I've used the Koolverter for years. It made a huge difference when there is minimal cool down time. Another thing that helped was getting a radiator with a built in trans cooler( like the factory did ). I run alcohol, so engine temp never gets hot.

I looked at koolverter deal.Figure with trans being in drivers compartment it would be more heat on me and figure I will have to bite another bullet and get the FTI version of Jones deal.

I just want to know why the Koolverter page has a picture of my Gran Prix on it!LOL I think Dennis used to own my car.

I completely forgot I bought one of those a couple years ago when I was running high gear only a lot. Never even put it on. I need to dig that out.

quote:

Originally posted by BJs Wild Ride:

quote:

Originally posted by DaleH:
Is something like this what you are looking for?

Be interested if anyone else has tried one of these?

KoolVerter

Yep, that is probably what I need.

The car doesn’t run long enough to bother with a standard cooler in the loop and the Jones deal just seems like overkill for me personally.

I had the same temp problem in the dragster as I do now in the door car. From ambient, the converter will be 220-230 when I get back to the pits. I went three passes in about 5 hours once without cooling and cooked he fluid. Converter surface was about 250 by the time i measured it and the fluid smelled trrrible.

If I drive back the converter temp goes way down but then the trans starts to heat soak. Easier to just blow the heat out of the converter.

I don't have the answer, but I do notice that some people have no problem and others it is a big issue. I'm sure how fast the car is makes a difference. And certainly driving back makes a big big difference. A friend of mine rebuilds a lot of glides, and noticed that super comp racers who pull back all seemed to have baked fluid. Those who drive back don't. I have a fairly loose converter in my small block 7.90's dragster, and can run back to back on normal days, all day without having a problem. If it is over 90 degrees ambient it takes longer to radiate the heat. I can turn on the trans cooler fan late in rounds on very hot days.
As far as heat soaking the trans, I always try to build some heat in the trans before the first pass for consistency. The rest of the day's passes won't be on a cold trans. So why should that first pass have one?

I know this will be a strongly debated thing, but for my car, I have seen a 50/75* change in trans temperature when I don't shift to neutral after the stripe. Not going to neutral results in higher temperature. I do fun a pro brake and the reverse lock out works on my shifter. Others have their opinions so that is up to what works for you, what you are comfortable with. My old trans builder said that was the best for the trans, to not use it to slow down, that's what brakes are for. Will say I never burned up a transmission. I put over 850 runs on the last one and only the low band was worn. You could still read writeing on the cluthes.

quote:

Originally posted by Wooley:
I know this will be a strongly debated thing, but for my car, I have seen a 50/75* change in trans temperature when I don't shift to neutral after the stripe. Not going to neutral results in higher temperature. I do fun a pro brake and the reverse lock out works on my shifter. Others have their opinions so that is up to what works for you, what you are comfortable with. My old trans builder said that was the best for the trans, to not use it to slow down, that's what brakes are for. Will say I never burned up a transmission. I put over 850 runs on the last one and only the low band was worn. You could still read writeing on the cluthes.

You know, now that you mention it...I have neutralled for as long as I have been in open cars. Maybe that is part of the reason for my temperature control. Never thought about the amount of heat the shutdown creates.

If I had to choose between frequent transmission oil changes and rod changes, I'd pick the fluid.

How does going to neutral hurt the rods? Doing so removes the load from them as motor goes to idle and doesn't use compression like a jake brake.

quote:

Originally posted by Wooley:
How does going to neutral hurt the rods? Doing so removes the load from them as motor goes to idle and doesn't use compression like a jake brake.

Exactly. Although I think they like to get longer on decel

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Bucky,

I went the El Cheapo' route myself, gas powered leaf blower w/ gutter piping to the center of car to a tee sending air to converter and the pan. I can drop 20* in less than 10 minutes. Works for me.

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:

quote:

Originally posted by Wooley:
How does going to neutral hurt the rods? Doing so removes the load from them as motor goes to idle and doesn't use compression like a jake brake.

Exactly. Although I think they like to get longer on decel

I never put it in neutral and my bearings always look perfect. I am not sure if there is any REAL proof it makes any difference at all.

I still think the Shogun style fan that goes between the flexplate and converter is a good idea. Moves a lot of air around converter.