DRR Pro

| st 85
honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224
|
| |
DRR Pro

| |
| |
DRR Pro

| every parts house has them
honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224
|
| |
DRR Sportsman
| quote: Originally posted by SCDIV1: Cole-Hersee all metal continuous duty 200 amp rated units work best and won't fail like the plastic body type.
I don't have a part number handy but they are fairly easy to find.
Some are insulated body with 2 small coil terminals, + and - and some are grounded body with only one small coil + terminal...
Either one can work....
I had 2 plastic body types stick on and have had zero problems since going to the metal Cole Hersee unit.......that I got from Mark Payne....
I carry a spare in my trailer...
This^^ Cole Hersee for the win!
BG
|
| Posts: 760 | Location: Florence, SC | Registered: August 25, 2019 |  
IP
|
|
DRR Pro
| Here’s a link to the ratings on CH solenoid relays to help make your choice. Cole Hersee |
| |
DRR S/Pro

| I've used Standard Motor Products for years with no problems. What kills them is trying to start with a low battery, it arcs the contacts and then they stick on when you put full power to them. Learned that years back when you tried to jump start a Ford truck with a manual transmission, be sure it's in neutral when you hook the cables up. |
| |
DRR S/Pro
| Thanks everyone
J.R. Baxter
""Fathom the hypocrisy of a Government that requires every citizen to prove they are insured ..but not everyone must prove they are a citizen."
2025 Miller Rolla Competition Engines ProCharger Hoosier Tires Abruzzi
|
| Posts: 1568 | Location: Waxahachie | Registered: July 04, 2005 |  
IP
|
|
DRR Pro

| quote: Originally posted by Eman: I've used Standard Motor Products for years with no problems. What kills them is trying to start with a low battery, it arcs the contacts and then they stick on when you put full power to them. Learned that years back when you tried to jump start a Ford truck with a manual transmission, be sure it's in neutral when you hook the cables up.
Eman KNOWS! ^^^^^^ 
"Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375
|
| |
DRR Top Comp
| Will not use them ever again. After having one screw up years ago (at three cars) I took that crap out. No problems since.
Clowns to the left of me, Jokers to the right. Here I am.......
|
| Posts: 5343 | Location: stuck in the middle with you! | Registered: March 11, 2002 |  
IP
|
|
DRR S/Pro
| Not sure why cars are wired this way,,, it just added more connections and more potential voltage losses. Ya I get it, it kills the positive battery cable power which is not a bad thing, especially for cables run inside a chassis frame. But a typical starter will draw over 300 amps in a 12v system that is wired correctly, and exceed 400 if not. A 200 amp rated deal is going to fail, just when is the question. Fixes besides removing it, use the right size battery cables, seal the cable crimped on connectors and don't forget the ground cable is just and important the power cable, using the chassis to carry the ground to the starter is not a good idea and a prime source for voltage loss. 16v system will help this issue as they will reduce the amp draw.
At the starter, hook a voltage meter to the positive lead, crank the motor with the ignition off, read the voltage after it stabilizes, you want 9.5v or more in a 12v system. Less than 9, you have issues in the wiring assuming your battery and starter are good! Starters can sound OK but draw way more current that they should and compound this issue so have your starters checked if you are having issues. |
| Posts: 2163 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000 |  
IP
|
|