What brand is everyone using? Mine just quit again so Ill need to get another tomorrow...would do anything and when I jumped across it now its stuck on...

I went back to using the solenoid on the starter for this very reason.

I have had the best luck with the true Motorcraft brand solenoid. Summit has them

st 85

every parts house has them

Echlin ST404, I've had this one on my car for 4 years plus. I just bought a new one to replace it as a precauton and I keep a spare in the trailer. $33 at NAPA

Cole-Hersee all metal continuous duty 200 amp rated units work best and won't fail like the plastic body type.

I don't have a part number handy but they are fairly easy to find.

Some are insulated body with 2 small coil terminals, + and - and some are grounded body with only one small coil + terminal...

Either one can work....

I had 2 plastic body types stick on and have had zero problems since going to the metal Cole Hersee unit.......that I got from Mark Payne....

I carry a spare in my trailer...

Ditto on the maintained contact cole-hersee solenoid. I use the 200 amp one, overkill, but I dont have to worry about load. ch #24059bx. $50.00 on amazon, $30.00 at napa but they usually dont stock them at my locations, but get them the next day from the warehouse.

Those are the CH units many people are using nowadays as the master cutoff from the battery isn't it? We put one in our dragster and it made things soo much more simpler. I will keep in mind people are using these for starting now too over the old Ford style.

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
Cole-Hersee all metal continuous duty 200 amp rated units work best and won't fail like the plastic body type.

I don't have a part number handy but they are fairly easy to find.

Some are insulated body with 2 small coil terminals, + and - and some are grounded body with only one small coil + terminal...

Either one can work....

I had 2 plastic body types stick on and have had zero problems since going to the metal Cole Hersee unit.......that I got from Mark Payne....

I carry a spare in my trailer...

This^^

Cole Hersee for the win!

Here’s a link to the ratings on CH solenoid relays to help make your choice.

Cole Hersee

I've used Standard Motor Products for years with no problems. What kills them is trying to start with a low battery, it arcs the contacts and then they stick on when you put full power to them. Learned that years back when you tried to jump start a Ford truck with a manual transmission, be sure it's in neutral when you hook the cables up.

Thanks everyone

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:
I've used Standard Motor Products for years with no problems. What kills them is trying to start with a low battery, it arcs the contacts and then they stick on when you put full power to them. Learned that years back when you tried to jump start a Ford truck with a manual transmission, be sure it's in neutral when you hook the cables up.

Eman KNOWS! ^^^^^^

I kept looking online until I found one made in USA. Summit had them.

Will not use them ever again. After having one screw up years ago (at three cars) I took that crap out. No problems since.

this ^^^^

Not sure why cars are wired this way,,, it just added more connections and more potential voltage losses. Ya I get it, it kills the positive battery cable power which is not a bad thing, especially for cables run inside a chassis frame. But a typical starter will draw over 300 amps in a 12v system that is wired correctly, and exceed 400 if not. A 200 amp rated deal is going to fail, just when is the question. Fixes besides removing it, use the right size battery cables, seal the cable crimped on connectors and don't forget the ground cable is just and important the power cable, using the chassis to carry the ground to the starter is not a good idea and a prime source for voltage loss. 16v system will help this issue as they will reduce the amp draw.

At the starter, hook a voltage meter to the positive lead, crank the motor with the ignition off, read the voltage after it stabilizes, you want 9.5v or more in a 12v system. Less than 9, you have issues in the wiring assuming your battery and starter are good! Starters can sound OK but draw way more current that they should and compound this issue so have your starters checked if you are having issues.

I took mine off many years ago after chasing starter troubles and never looked back.

Frank at FAE (use to make bullitpruff starters) talked me out of it said it can make the starter drag a tad after the motor is cranked. The starter for just a fraction of a second turns into a generator and with the connection on the back of the solenoid at the starter being wired to the positive cable, it energizes that solenoid and this causes the bendix to hang out on the flywheel a tad bit longer.

He explained this was the reason the small spring that holds the bendix away from the flywheel was always stretched out of round and usually not functioning....