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Ford Style Starter Solenoid
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DRR S/Pro
posted
What brand is everyone using? Mine just quit again so Ill need to get another tomorrow...would do anything and when I jumped across it now its stuck on...


J.R. Baxter

""Fathom the hypocrisy of a Government that requires every citizen to prove they are insured ..but not everyone must prove they are a citizen."

2024 Miller
Rolla Competition Engines
ProCharger
Hoosier Tires
Abruzzi
 
Posts: 1552 | Location: Waxahachie | Registered: July 04, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of Rodney Pryor
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I went back to using the solenoid on the starter for this very reason.
 
Posts: 127 | Location: Richmond, VA | Registered: December 07, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Big Steve
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I have had the best luck with the true Motorcraft brand solenoid. Summit has them
 
Posts: 2543 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of rusty
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st 85


honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense
1.036, 6.16@ 224

 
Posts: 1467 | Location: texas | Registered: February 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of rusty
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https://www.texasindustrialele...c.com/relays.asp#top


honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense
1.036, 6.16@ 224

 
Posts: 1467 | Location: texas | Registered: February 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of rusty
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every parts house has them


honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense
1.036, 6.16@ 224

 
Posts: 1467 | Location: texas | Registered: February 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of TonyB6255
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Echlin ST404, I've had this one on my car for 4 years plus. I just bought a new one to replace it as a precauton and I keep a spare in the trailer. $33 at NAPA
 
Posts: 638 | Location: Rochester, WA | Registered: November 22, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR S/Pro
Picture of SCDIV1
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Cole-Hersee all metal continuous duty 200 amp rated units work best and won't fail like the plastic body type.

I don't have a part number handy but they are fairly easy to find.

Some are insulated body with 2 small coil terminals, + and - and some are grounded body with only one small coil + terminal...

Either one can work....

I had 2 plastic body types stick on and have had zero problems since going to the metal Cole Hersee unit.......that I got from Mark Payne....

I carry a spare in my trailer...
 
Posts: 2735 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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Ditto on the maintained contact cole-hersee solenoid. I use the 200 amp one, overkill, but I dont have to worry about load. ch #24059bx. $50.00 on amazon, $30.00 at napa but they usually dont stock them at my locations, but get them the next day from the warehouse.
 
Posts: 315 | Location: Nevada | Registered: February 01, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of NC3x58
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Those are the CH units many people are using nowadays as the master cutoff from the battery isn't it? We put one in our dragster and it made things soo much more simpler. I will keep in mind people are using these for starting now too over the old Ford style.


Nick Craig

1971 Camaro Split Bumper
376ci LS3
 
Posts: 410 | Location: Ohio | Registered: December 28, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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quote:
Originally posted by SCDIV1:
Cole-Hersee all metal continuous duty 200 amp rated units work best and won't fail like the plastic body type.

I don't have a part number handy but they are fairly easy to find.

Some are insulated body with 2 small coil terminals, + and - and some are grounded body with only one small coil + terminal...

Either one can work....

I had 2 plastic body types stick on and have had zero problems since going to the metal Cole Hersee unit.......that I got from Mark Payne....

I carry a spare in my trailer...


This^^

Cole Hersee for the win!


BG
 
Posts: 760 | Location: Florence, SC | Registered: August 25, 2019Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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Here’s a link to the ratings on CH solenoid relays to help make your choice.

Cole Hersee
 
Posts: 2671 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Eman
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I've used Standard Motor Products for years with no problems. What kills them is trying to start with a low battery, it arcs the contacts and then they stick on when you put full power to them. Learned that years back when you tried to jump start a Ford truck with a manual transmission, be sure it's in neutral when you hook the cables up.
 
Posts: 1568 | Location: E TN | Registered: February 13, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Thanks everyone


J.R. Baxter

""Fathom the hypocrisy of a Government that requires every citizen to prove they are insured ..but not everyone must prove they are a citizen."

2024 Miller
Rolla Competition Engines
ProCharger
Hoosier Tires
Abruzzi
 
Posts: 1552 | Location: Waxahachie | Registered: July 04, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Pro
Picture of Goob
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quote:
Originally posted by Eman:
I've used Standard Motor Products for years with no problems. What kills them is trying to start with a low battery, it arcs the contacts and then they stick on when you put full power to them. Learned that years back when you tried to jump start a Ford truck with a manual transmission, be sure it's in neutral when you hook the cables up.


Eman KNOWS! ^^^^^^ Big Grin


"Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular."
Dave Cook
N375
 
Posts: 1837 | Location: Indy | Registered: November 21, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Brktracer
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I kept looking online until I found one made in USA. Summit had them.


Matt Ward



 
Posts: 1395 | Location: South Carolina | Registered: March 20, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
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Will not use them ever again. After having one screw up years ago (at three cars) I took that crap out. No problems since.


Clowns to the left of me, Jokers to the right. Here I am.......
 
Posts: 5334 | Location: stuck in the middle with you! | Registered: March 11, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of 67TSCHEVY2
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this ^^^^
 
Posts: 1259 | Location: middle georgia | Registered: July 20, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Not sure why cars are wired this way,,, it just added more connections and more potential voltage losses. Ya I get it, it kills the positive battery cable power which is not a bad thing, especially for cables run inside a chassis frame. But a typical starter will draw over 300 amps in a 12v system that is wired correctly, and exceed 400 if not. A 200 amp rated deal is going to fail, just when is the question. Fixes besides removing it, use the right size battery cables, seal the cable crimped on connectors and don't forget the ground cable is just and important the power cable, using the chassis to carry the ground to the starter is not a good idea and a prime source for voltage loss. 16v system will help this issue as they will reduce the amp draw.

At the starter, hook a voltage meter to the positive lead, crank the motor with the ignition off, read the voltage after it stabilizes, you want 9.5v or more in a 12v system. Less than 9, you have issues in the wiring assuming your battery and starter are good! Starters can sound OK but draw way more current that they should and compound this issue so have your starters checked if you are having issues.
 
Posts: 2163 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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I took mine off many years ago after chasing starter troubles and never looked back.

Frank at FAE (use to make bullitpruff starters) talked me out of it said it can make the starter drag a tad after the motor is cranked. The starter for just a fraction of a second turns into a generator and with the connection on the back of the solenoid at the starter being wired to the positive cable, it energizes that solenoid and this causes the bendix to hang out on the flywheel a tad bit longer.

He explained this was the reason the small spring that holds the bendix away from the flywheel was always stretched out of round and usually not functioning....
 
Posts: 431 | Location: Pride, La | Registered: April 18, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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