Watching some of the NPK and Street Outlaws stuff and watched them around 500-600 ft and the car just takes off like they just hit another stage of nitrous.
I know it's the converter going into lock up.

Just curious if anyone here has tried it with a glide. Also wondering if and what it would take to DIY.

Good question for FTI to jump on. I know ATI has a Super Glide with lock up.

Dave

I wonder how much a lock up converter will pull the motor down RPM wise?
I would love to see a graph

Good Question. I've heard Ryan Martin and Kye Kelly talk about the car breaking loose when it locks up, so I'm thinking it must pull it back into the torque band.

Just a guess..

ATI sells their Superglide 4 lock up for right at 10,000.00 a little out of my comfort zone.

Dave

I have heard of these but no experience with them. Is this an electric solenoid controlling fluid flow to the converter?

They are actually bringing lock up in before a gear change. The quicker you lock it up, the faster she goes.

It's dump valve or multiple dump valves. How it works is when the dump valve is open the converter slips X, when the dump valve is closed the converter slips less - X.

It's like putting it in another gear.

I've never watched a single episode of any of these TV shows, but this is what it is.

Anyone who really understands push rod drag racing, understands rpm is the enemy of mph, or the lack of rpm more specifically.

It's not a lockup converter, it's dump valves to bring the driveshaft closer to 1 : 1 with the crankshaft.

The latest greatest innovation is roller engine thrust bearings, they allow converter pressures to be higher than normal opening a big window for these dump valves to manage converter efficiency (slip) multiple times in low and high gear.

A powerglide or 2sp T400 sounds like a 4 speed.

dave i have been wanting to try it myself,my only concern would be if i have enogh power to pull it.those guys on npk are making lots fo boost.i think the cost will prohibit me from trying it.

quote:

Originally posted by rusty:
dave i have been wanting to try it myself,my only concern would be if i have enogh power to pull it.those guys on npk are making lots fo boost.i think the cost will prohibit me from trying it.

Dont know what kind of power you are talking, but from my suppliers, If you say ran a 9" converter non lock up, you would run a 8" lock up. The whole point of the lock up is to be able to slip the converter, AND put the most aggressive stator you can stand, then lock it up before the gear change. Problem is, that in bracket racing, there isnt going to be a bunch of consistency, like we are used to, and you will be more likely to strike the tires on the gear change, since the converter is going to be locked up.

quote:

Originally posted by rusty:
dave i have been wanting to try it myself,my only concern would be if i have enogh power to pull it.those guys on npk are making lots fo boost.i think the cost will prohibit me from trying it.

Rusty, I thought you were making close to or the same power JR is making.
JR has said his converter was going overdive in the past. I would think you would be making enough power.
Cost is a big factor for me too, that plus age.
Not sure how long I'm going to be able to do this and my daughter say's she will have enough toys to get rid of..lol

329L,
I would think you would lock up after the high gear change just to prevent striking the car. Maybe even pull some power just before lock up and then put it back in.
At least that's what I do at the shift to stop what spin I get at the shift.

Dave

Call Hughes it's cheaper to purchase than you think, and their system dumps on both sides of the converter fill and exhaust.

Perfecting it will cost more than the original purchase of parts.

That's exactly what it is, keeping the engine around peak power, upping the a to b average power at the back tire.

Highest average power at the back tire produces the quickest et.

Mike, Dumping before or after converter doesn't make it a lock up?
I (sort of) understand the theory behind dump valves, but I'm more interested in lock up to eliminate converter slippage on the top end without killing stall or increasing it beyond what I want.

Dave

A dump valve(s) is a crutch and only slows you down but may enable a quicker ET if used properly.

NPK cars typically run a true lockup converter and two speed 400 or similar.

quote:

Originally posted by David Covey:
Mike, Dumping before or after converter doesn't make it a lock up?
I (sort of) understand the theory behind dump valves, but I'm more interested in lock up to eliminate converter slippage on the top end without killing stall or increasing it beyond what I want.

Dave

Dump makes X converter pressure (less efficient), turning the dump off makes more converter pressure (more efficient converter).

No prep they're using a mixture of wheel speed and a less efficient converter they can make efficient using dumps, as it gains speed, according to how much power they're giving it (boost).

329L,
I would think you would lock up after the high gear change just to prevent striking the car. Maybe even pull some power just before lock up and then put it back in.
At least that's what I do at the shift to stop what spin I get at the shift.

Dave[/QUOTE]

Dave,
Locking up in top gear is old school. Modern cars are locking up the converter as early as 2nd gear in normal driving conditions. RVW and pro mod guys are locking up in low gear when the track will hold it.

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:

Dave,
Locking up in top gear is old school.

That's me OLD school...

Didn't know that..

Dave

All the newer cars with 6, 8 and 10 speed transmissions use a high stall converter (2400 rpm) with a very slushy stator. Like us, that helps the car accelerate like it actually has power. Then lock the converter up for the efficiency. Most all the american cars are locking up the converters in 2nd and 3rd gear, depending on throttle position.

quote:

I would think you would be making enough power.

i use some slip to keep rpm up,i think to run a true lock up convertor other changes would be needed as 329 said.maybe even a different rear gear.i think if idid something that just pulled rpm down it would slow down,who knows.maybe i can talk j.r. into trying it

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:
All the newer cars with 6, 8 and 10 speed transmissions use a high stall converter (2400 rpm) with a very slushy stator. Like us, that helps the car accelerate like it actually has power. Then lock the converter up for the efficiency. Most all the american cars are locking up the converters in 2nd and 3rd gear, depending on throttle position.

When tuning the later model trucks, the first thing most will do for trans longevity and drivability is keep the lock up off in 3rd and 4th. I was skeptical. But they really do drive better without the lugging that that lockup seems to always induce.

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:
All the newer cars with 6, 8 and 10 speed transmissions use a high stall converter (2400 rpm) with a very slushy stator. Like us, that helps the car accelerate like it actually has power. Then lock the converter up for the efficiency. Most all the american cars are locking up the converters in 2nd and 3rd gear, depending on throttle position.

When tuning the later model trucks, the first thing most will do for trans longevity and drivability is keep the lock up off in 3rd and 4th. I was skeptical. But they really do drive better without the lugging that that lockup seems to always induce.

Correct, earlier you lock a converter up, the harder it is on everything. But, it is still faster to lock it up early. Those guys have the ability to tune how hard the lock up comes in. Nitrous guys want lock up to come in as hard as possible to re load the engine as hard as possible. The boost cars have to watch how hard lock up comes in becuase it will knock boost out of the engines.