Battery Cutoff

bickel is selling the Lokar that I posted and use

Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000

Ignored post by 1320racer posted

Toad1

DRR Pro

posted

I use the continuous duty Solenoid on my S10. Simple low-amp push-pull disconnects. On on the rear valance and one on the dash. Instant shut-off or on. Only takes 18-guage wire from Disconnect switches and easy to install. I got it from Fastronix, Around $80.00 I think.

www.trailertoad.com designed by racers for racers.

Posts: 1233 | Location: Janesville, IA | Registered: December 21, 2004

Ignored post by Toad1 posted

DRR S/Pro

posted

quote:
Originally posted by Toad1:
I use the continuous duty Solenoid on my S10. Simple low-amp push-pull disconnects. On on the rear valance and one on the dash. Instant shut-off or on. Only takes 18-guage wire from Disconnect switches and easy to install. I got it from Fastronix, Around $80.00 I think.

That's way too expensive and complicated. LOL

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Posts: 3143 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007

Ignored post by CURTIS REED posted

Fabman

DRR Trophy

posted

quote:
Originally posted by Curly1:
Has anyone been using these and how well has it worked?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...d=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

Or this.
https://speedwiresystems.com/l...emote-relay-shut-off

The Cole-Hersee 24213 that many of us had been using is really not heavy duty enough for our needs.

I run the Speedwire remote kill switch setup with the body mounted E-stop button. I had a Jerry Bickel Pro series kill switch but just didn't have room to mount it.

Posts: 286 | Location: USA | Registered: August 27, 2022

Ignored post by Fabman posted

Curly1

DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1

posted

quote:
Originally posted by Fabman:
quote:
Originally posted by Curly1:
Has anyone been using these and how well has it worked?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...d=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

Or this.
https://speedwiresystems.com/l...emote-relay-shut-off

The Cole-Hersee 24213 that many of us had been using is really not heavy duty enough for our needs.

I run the Speedwire remote kill switch setup with the body mounted E-stop button. I had a Jerry Bickel Pro series kill switch but just didn't have room to mount it.

The Speedwire kit is nice but I do think it is rather expensive for what it is. One thing I do like about it which you can do with any electric solenoid is run both in a series with one switch in the cokpit and one on the back of the car to easily kill power from either one.

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Posts: 4273 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011

Ignored post by Curly1 posted

DRR S/Pro

posted

The Racewire kit uses a solid state switch

https://racewiresolutions.com/...tate-kill-switch-kit

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Posts: 3143 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007

Ignored post by CURTIS REED posted

SP 124X

DRR Sportsman

posted

quote:
Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
The Racewire kit uses a solid state switch

https://racewiresolutions.com/...tate-kill-switch-kit

I can buy those SSR for a little under $200 for the 200a and a little over $200 for the 300a. The Cole hersee solenoids have been very reliable for me so I haven't given them a try yet.

Denis LeBlanc

Posts: 504 | Location: Manchester, NH | Registered: February 03, 2006

Ignored post by SP 124X posted

1320racer

DRR Elite

posted

quote:
Originaly posted by Toad1:
Simple push-pull disconnects. One on the rear valance and one on the dash. Instant shut-off or on.

same here, no reason to make it harder than it needs to be. Easy peasy!

Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000

Ignored post by 1320racer posted

DRR S/Pro

posted

quote:
Originally posted by 1320racer:
quote:
Originaly posted by Toad1:
Simple push-pull disconnects. One on the rear valance and one on the dash. Instant shut-off or on.

same here, no reason to make it harder than it needs to be. Easy peasy!

I'm curious what makes you think this is harder? It's actually easier to run the wires than to mount the switch, route the cable and hook up both on off handles.

Price is pretty much a wash. I have roughly $150 in it.

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Posts: 3143 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007

Ignored post by CURTIS REED posted

Wild Wild West 2

DRR Sportsman

posted

I'm having an issue with my original arm on the shaft of the Cole-Hersee disconnect switch. It seems to be too short and thus, makes it hard to actuate from either inside the driver compartment or the rear of the dragster. I think a longer arm would help with that issue since it would give more leverage to actuate the switch.

In the picture that Ed posted, it looks like that arm is longer than the original arm that comes on the disconnect switch.

That's the main reason I have been thinking of going to all electric for the disconnect switch. Using a continuous rated solenoid with 2 E-stop buttons.
But if I can get a longer arm for the mechanical switch, that would be the easiest, fastest, and cheapest way to go.

Tim West
"Wild Wild West" Racing

mickeythompsontires.com
tciauto.com
compcams.com
www.motorsportsinnovations.com

Posts: 318 | Location: Spartanburg,SC | Registered: April 16, 2003

Ignored post by Wild Wild West 2 posted

SP 124X

DRR Sportsman

posted

https://www.speedwaymotors.com...ml?sku=91018410-5/16

quote:
Originally posted by Wild Wild West 2:
I'm having an issue with my original arm on the shaft of the Cole-Hersee disconnect switch. It seems to be too short and thus, makes it hard to actuate from either inside the driver compartment or the rear of the dragster. I think a longer arm would help with that issue since it would give more leverage to actuate the switch.

In the picture that Ed posted, it looks like that arm is longer than the original arm that comes on the disconnect switch.

That's the main reason I have been thinking of going to all electric for the disconnect switch. Using a continuous rated solenoid with 2 E-stop buttons.
But if I can get a longer arm for the mechanical switch, that would be the easiest, fastest, and cheapest way to go.

Denis LeBlanc

Posts: 504 | Location: Manchester, NH | Registered: February 03, 2006

Ignored post by SP 124X posted

DRR S/Pro

posted

I was using this one.

https://secure.chassisshop.com/partdetail/C72-026/

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Posts: 3143 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007

Ignored post by CURTIS REED posted

Wild Wild West 2

DRR Sportsman

posted

Thanks Curtis ! I just ordered that arm from Chassis Shop.

Tim West
"Wild Wild West" Racing

mickeythompsontires.com
tciauto.com
compcams.com
www.motorsportsinnovations.com

Posts: 318 | Location: Spartanburg,SC | Registered: April 16, 2003

Ignored post by Wild Wild West 2 posted

Wild Wild West 2

DRR Sportsman

posted

And thanks to you Denis for providing the other arm option.

Tim West
"Wild Wild West" Racing

mickeythompsontires.com
tciauto.com
compcams.com
www.motorsportsinnovations.com

Posts: 318 | Location: Spartanburg,SC | Registered: April 16, 2003

Ignored post by Wild Wild West 2 posted

1leg

DRR Trophy
Picture of 1leg

posted

option

https://www.waytekwire.com/ite...-Battery-Disconnect/

Meziere Tech.
Make sure your water pump is on whenever you check your coolant level.

Posts: 270 | Location: Escondido | Registered: July 01, 2011

Ignored post by 1leg posted

SP 124X

DRR Sportsman

posted

quote:
Originally posted by 1leg:
option

https://www.waytekwire.com/ite...-Battery-Disconnect/

I'm pretty sure that's the same one racewire uses

Denis LeBlanc

Posts: 504 | Location: Manchester, NH | Registered: February 03, 2006

Ignored post by SP 124X posted

DRR S/Pro

posted

Done

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Posts: 3143 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007

Ignored post by CURTIS REED posted

Goob

DRR Pro

posted

quote:
Originally posted by SP 124X:
quote:
Originally posted by 1leg:
option

https://www.waytekwire.com/ite...-Battery-Disconnect/

I'm pretty sure that's the same one racewire uses

That link pops to a 200A rated unit, there's a 300A option listed.

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N375

Posts: 1831 | Location: Indy | Registered: November 21, 2008

Ignored post by Goob posted

67TSCHEVY2

DRR Pro

posted

a solenoid has to have power to make or break the electrical connection. power has to be ran to a switch i assume in the drivers compartment. a electrical disconnect does not cut the power off to the control switch or the solenoid could not be energized. read the rulebook.... This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions...

Posts: 1259 | Location: middle georgia | Registered: July 20, 2003

Ignored post by 67TSCHEVY2 posted

1320racer

DRR Elite

posted

67TSCHEVY2...KNOWS!

Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000

Ignored post by 1320racer posted