Our FL-70 motor home has aluminum siding that as come loose and opened up. Seems the great bada$$ epoxy was noit all it I was told it was.

With most of the siding doing fine and only 2 seams opened. I am actually guessing lack of pressure when setting up or a lack of adhesion between two metals.

Suggestion on good epoxy to use. Two side tapes will be hard as hell to get between sheet and metal frame w/o issue or wpould look there too.

If you can get into prep surfaces look into Sem panel to panel adhesive body shops use it to glue body panels on

There is a brand called Eternabond that is used for class 8 Semi's and trailers skins. For the roof repairs i use Manus Bond 75. applied with a paint brush. H.B. Fuller is a retailer also.

Forgot to say need one that can be used will little mess to outside. Ubderstand i control most of that. Some things can be used w/o mess and some just are messy as hell to use.

I will checkout recommendations

Can you not just rivet or screw those two panels? I think the smooth sides look great but have seen several come loose. Sorry, I just don't trust it. Good luck. BTW, the Manus Bond works great on the roof, I wouldn't use it on the sides, it's kind of messy. Never used the Eternabond before.

panel bond. https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...A1VBEQ08VEF6ZH&psc=1

will need dispensing gun and needle attachment and a means to hold gap closed while drying.

quote:

Originally posted by 67TSCHEVY2:
panel bond. https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...A1VBEQ08VEF6ZH&psc=1

will need dispensing gun and needle attachment and a means to hold gap closed while drying.

Always wondered how people go about that last part. And how long it needs to be held.

Anything that dries hard will fail. Trailers flex more than anything on the planet other than hi rise curtainwall.
My suggestion from years in the glass and glazing biz, a structural silicone such as GE Silglaze, GE Silproof, Dow 795, Tremco silicone.
Clean the two surfaces with denatured alcohol, mask the vertical joints and put a nice 3/8 bead into the gap and push them both together. Scrape off the excess with the open backside of a caulking tube, then a plastic razor blade. you should block the seams with a piece of aluminium angle to prevent it from releasing.
Don't move it for 48 hrs.
That structural silicone holds glass in buildings. Any hi rise bldg that has no mechanical means of holding the glazing or any metal visible on the outside is held in place with silicone in many variations.
If you do it neatly you will only see a dark shadow less than 1/16 thick at the edge of the panel.

I used Liquid Nails "Fuze-It" to glue metal panels to the metal frame on my back yard fence. You can actually see where the sheet metal has bent slightly on each side of the frame from high winds, but it's held up very well. I will use panel bond if this stuff ever gives up but it's been 5 years with no signs of weakening

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:

quote:

Originally posted by 67TSCHEVY2:
panel bond. https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...A1VBEQ08VEF6ZH&psc=1

will need dispensing gun and needle attachment and a means to hold gap closed while drying.

Always wondered how people go about that last part. And how long it needs to be held.

When we first built the motorhome we had a craddle that was spring loaded . It hooked on toprail(no roof at the time) and we pulled the bottom in with ratchet straps I think,hey 25 years ago. It pressed the metal against the frame till epoxy setup.

Now I am planning to build a smaller version with one rib on each side and a rubber strip on edge that will force the center to tough first then flex when clamped to the other side and pull it together. That is plan anyway.

My biggest thing is getting the seam opened enough to prep surfaces for epoxy.