I have a BBC ATI balancer stuck on the crankshaft it has been off and on over the years but I have broken my ATI balancer puller trying to remove it even tried heat induction and a couple other pullers it has moved about a 1/4 inch I pressed it back on a couple times but still no luck

Suggestion, remove the outer housing leaving the inner hub in place. Use another quality puller and use long bolts with plenty of thread engaged. Tighten the puller then apply heat. If necessary, let it cool and repeat the process. Keep the puller threads lubed and continue tightening and it will eventually come off.

If you pull the outer shell you could probably use a large 3 jaw puller on the hub. It would allow much more pull than with the bolts.

I will give that a try in a couple days

I had one that would not move even with a bearing splitter puller. I had to destroy the hub to get it off. It had galled on install even with neverseize. They are machined too tight from ATI.
I spun the new one on my lathe and honed about .0015 out of it. This was the second one I had to destroy to remove.

RIP

I have seen more than one have to be cut off due to seizing onto the crank.

Seems like I remember it being some kind of micro welding type deal from balancer moving some. Where it transfers some material from one to the other. I think this subject has been brought up before. In any case that is not good for crankshaft or balancer. Also could it be a sign of detonating or balance issues?

they are too tight in some cases and should be honed,been there done that.

quote:

Originally posted by rusty:
they are too tight in some cases and should be honed,been there done that.

The instructions (who reads instructions?) say they must be honed to certain interference fit.

Silly question, are you sure you removed the crank bolt washer? I've seen someone forget it, makes for interesting conversation afterwards.......

Not a silly question but yes washer is removed

I have seen small metal transfers in the past, they will get worse if you keep using that hub over again! Get a new one, hone it as directed but how's the crank snout? Need to address this too.

On my current motor, it's been apart 3 time and both the crank and balancer are perfect and it is a PIA to get it off, especially to get that first crack of movement. Once it cracks it comes off but it takes some muscle! I don't use an impact gun either, also use moly lube on the puller threads and on the crank/puller nose.

I realize most of you don't have to install or remove that many balancers per year BUT if you do this tool is a life changer.

http://www.webster-industries.com/Damper_Puller.html

I have an ATI Balancer that was honed to fit a BBC Scat crank I ran for years, had it on and off a few times, it was tight but always came off, even after sitting installed for over 5 years. I want to use this same balancer on a Winberg billet crank I cycled out of my blower motor to be used in my 565 bracket motor crank and while having the crank rebalanced I had them check the fit and had to be honed again

I had a bad ATI once. I even welded together a cage to use a 20 ton bottle jack as a puller. It broke the 3 grade 8 bolts (actually broke 1 and then instantly bent the other 2). Had to cut it off.

And yea, i was lazy and didn't get it honed to fit. When I put it on I knew it was gonna be tough to remove. Never had an issue if it was sized & honed .

quote:

Originally posted by TOP38:
I don't use an impact gun either, also use moly lube on the puller threads and on the crank/puller nose.

^^^ ALWAYS use moly paste on the puller/installer threads, the difference in effort required is very significant. I even wipe a very thin smear on the crank snout and damper bore when installing them.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:

The instructions (who reads instructions?) say they must be honed to certain interference fit.

^^^^This^^^^^

Have never had an issue once I started having the hub honed to the correct sizing.

Reminds me of the old oil filter commercial, pay me now or pay me later.


Joe

If the fit isn't correct, the dampner cannot perform.

If the fit is correct, China Freight tools aren't going to cut it.

Side thought.... I have personally seen a LOT more dampner, and oil pump body / pickup issues with the popularity of stroker combinations and internal balancing, both BBC and SBC.

My Scat cast crank for a 406 hand grenade was 300 grams off from being either internal or external balance. We went external.
It shredded a Chinese dampner, and broke a Summers Brothers gear drive, but gave a lot of runs before another valvetrain failure ended it's fun.
I haven't examined the bearings yet. I think I'll autopsy it for a YouTube video.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Goob,

I went through this a while back. The motor was coming apart anyway. I took the cover bolts out and got the cam bolts out. Took the crank out with the cover and pressed it out in the press. Lots of metal transfer. Polished the snout and replaced the hub.

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:
My Scat cast crank for a 406 hand grenade was 300 grams off from being either internal or external balance. We went external.
It shredded a Chinese dampner, and broke a Summers Brothers gear drive, but gave a lot of runs before another valvetrain failure ended it's fun.
I haven't examined the bearings yet. I think I'll autopsy it for a YouTube video.

Would be interested in this. I've never got a clear answer (not that there is one) when a forged is actually needed in a drag race application. Yes, everyone wants a winberg for their bracket car, but is it needed?