quote:

Originally posted by David_D.:
Tested voltage while cranking and it went from 11.66 at the battery to 10.38 at the starter.

The battery was wired on the car years ago with standard 2 AWG battery cable, so I'm going to re-wire with 1/0 fine strand welding cable to help, but that being said, I still don't think the starter is working correctly.

I put my spare on and it cranks great! I'll order a new drive/clutch.

Thanks again for the feedback!

David, I have a couple things to suggest to you about this...
1st : I understand you're trying to repair the starter do to cost, stubbornness, fun to fix things whatever your reason is, it's your business, nobody else's. BUT, even if you do get it working again I would put that starter in the trailer for a spare and buy a new one...
2nd : I had a starter/alternator rebuilder renting one of my shops a while back and they used to bench test the starters by shoving a 1"x1" square stick into the drive gear as hard as they could while spinning it. Chewed the heII out of the sticks but it sure did put a load on the starter !! lol

quote:

Originally posted by David_D.:
Tested voltage while cranking and it went from 11.66 at the battery to 10.38 at the starter.

The battery was wired on the car years ago with standard 2 AWG battery cable, so I'm going to re-wire with 1/0 fine strand welding cable to help, but that being said, I still don't think the starter is working correctly.

I put my spare on and it cranks great! I'll order a new drive/clutch.

Thanks again for the feedback!

I honestly don’t think it’s the five, think about it the drive is just a one way clutch that spins, the solenoid is what pushes the drive I and out. There is an arm going from solenoid to behind the drive that pushes it out, the drive is just along for the ride as far as going in and out. If the drive is going bad it usually makes a grinding sound like it’s eating teeth off the flexplate. I have fixed many myself.

I had one doing this exact thing. The shim had been removed between the mounting plate and the starter but not from the nose. It hurt the starter drive. I could grab the starter gear and would not free spin backwards (the one way clutch or bendix was seized) I replaced it and works perfect. Just grab the starter gear and see if it will spin backwards with your fingers. If not this could be your issue.
This was what I changed to fix mine.
Part # 255602
Powermaster 602 Starter Clutch Assembly

quote:

Originally posted by inferno camaro:
I had one doing this exact thing. The shim had been removed between the mounting plate and the starter but not from the nose. It hurt the starter drive. I could grab the starter gear and would not free spin backwards (the one way clutch or bendix was seized) I replaced it and works perfect. Just grab the starter gear and see if it will spin backwards with your fingers. If not this could be your issue.
This was what I changed to fix mine.
Part # 255602
Powermaster 602 Starter Clutch Assembly

I don’t know how chiming has anything to do with the drive assembly sprag but if that worked for you as a repair good for you.

I'm just over here using the same old GM high torque starters for 40 years. Genuine GM bolts and the proper back brace.
1 sketchy day at the races starter related.


I know, lots of oil pans, headers, and chassis limitations that make the GM stuff impossible to use. But if you have the room..... Delco 323-255

quote:

Originally posted by green1:

quote:

Originally posted by inferno camaro:
I had one doing this exact thing. The shim had been removed between the mounting plate and the starter but not from the nose. It hurt the starter drive. I could grab the starter gear and would not free spin backwards (the one way clutch or bendix was seized) I replaced it and works perfect. Just grab the starter gear and see if it will spin backwards with your fingers. If not this could be your issue.
This was what I changed to fix mine.
Part # 255602
Powermaster 602 Starter Clutch Assembly

I don’t know how chiming has anything to do with the drive assembly sprag but if that worked for you as a repair good for you.

A shim was removed from between the aluminum mounting block and the starter body. There was a shim in the snout as well and it wasn't removed. When you tighten it all back up the extra shim in the snout was smashing against the clutch assembly and ruined it.

quote:

Originally posted by inferno camaro:

quote:

Originally posted by green1:

quote:

Originally posted by inferno camaro:
I had one doing this exact thing. The shim had been removed between the mounting plate and the starter but not from the nose. It hurt the starter drive. I could grab the starter gear and would not free spin backwards (the one way clutch or bendix was seized) I replaced it and works perfect. Just grab the starter gear and see if it will spin backwards with your fingers. If not this could be your issue.
This was what I changed to fix mine.
Part # 255602
Powermaster 602 Starter Clutch Assembly

I don’t know how chiming has anything to do with the drive assembly sprag but if that worked for you as a repair good for you.

A shim was removed from between the aluminum mounting block and the starter body. There was a shim in the snout as well and it wasn't removed. When you tighten it all back up the extra shim in the snout was smashing against the clutch assembly and ruined it.

I am fully aware of how it goes together and would think you would break something else before it hurt the sprag in the drive. I have actually tore the drive completely apart before with the curiosity of how it worked, it was ruined when done but now I know exactly what’s in there.

A little update. Ordered a drive from HOP. Put the starter back on and it’s doing the same thing. There’s either something electrically wrong in the starter or the new solenoid is defective. The trusty backup is back on the car and working flawlessly.

7 days ago I advised…

quote:

Originally posted September 24, 2022 08:41 AM by 1320racer:
Buy a new Tilton or HOP starter and while you’re at it a spare drive and solenoid, both of which are in my trailer along with a spare starter.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
7 days ago I advised…

quote:

Originally posted September 24, 2022 08:41 AM by 1320racer:
Buy a new Tilton or HOP starter and while you’re at it a spare drive and solenoid, both of which are in my trailer along with a spare starter.

X2 Remove that perfectly good new drive and throw what you attached it to in the junk pile. A new HOP starter would be my choice.

Or you could throw more money at it and order a solenoid. Could be the problem.

markemark...KNOWS!

Yup

quote:

Originally posted by David_D.:
A little update. Ordered a drive from HOP. Put the starter back on and it’s doing the same thing. There’s either something electrically wrong in the starter or the new solenoid is defective. The trusty backup is back on the car and working flawlessly.

Well I knew the drive wasn’t gonna fix it. Solenoid is what pulls the bendix in and out so either solenoid, or voltage is dropping or something is wrong with the arm that pushes out the bendix.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: green1,

Who knew that a guy who repairs junk water pumps with Chinese parts would be the smartest guy on this forum, just ask him and he’ll tell you.

Meanwhile, most that replied here felt it was the drive assembly based on the info and video supplied.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
Who knew that a guy who repairs junk water pumps with Chinese parts would be the smartest guy on this forum, just ask him and he’ll tell you.

Meanwhile, most that replied here felt it was the drive assembly based on the info and video supplied.

When a valve does not open properly and the valve isn’t bent do you replace the valve first?
And by the way I use the only parts that can be bought to repair the pump wherever they are made but then you know your waterpump has Chinese bearings in it unless you tore it apart and changed them but I know you didn’t do that.