What could be causing this? Starter has a new solenoid and has been checked out by a local shop that specializes in starters. They say everything tests great on their bench. I have tried two other starters and they work perfectly. Engine is a 14:1 SBC. I've had this starter on the car for years and have never had a problem until I had the starter hang and keep spinning. I had the solenoid replaced and now it's doing this.
I believe you have a voltage drop at the starter solenoid that allows it to stay spinning and not engage the flexplate. If you measure the voltage AT the starter while cranking it needs to be 10.5v minimum. If not it’ll do exactly what is shown in the video. I’d start with a voltage drop test at the rear disconnect if you do not have 10.5v at the starter while cranking.
Posts: 2675 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009
Here’s what else you can do if you find a voltage drop across the rear disconnect when testing. Move both the battery lead and the lead to the starter to the same terminal, bypassing the rear disconnect. Then test voltage at starter solenoid when cranking
Posts: 2675 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009
I had a recent starter issue with my 414 sbc - 14:1.... I believe it was a powermaster. It kicked back like a mule. Replaced with a House of Payne for $260 and it spins like it has 16 volts...
Posts: 149 | Location: Omaha NE | Registered: October 31, 2009
I had a recent starter issue with my 414 sbc - 14:1.... I believe it was a powermaster. It kicked back like a mule. Replaced with a House of Payne for $260 and it spins like it has 16 volts...
Excellent video on voltage checking method.
If you notice when he initially checks voltage at the starter while cranking it is at 8.99v and the starter clutch / drive stays engaged. Why? Because the solenoids that they used are designed to operate properly at lower voltages under load. Many starters have solenoids that won’t stay engaged at voltages less than 9.5v under load. Truth !!
Cars with 16v systems won’t experience this starter solenoid problem.
I switched to HOP starters several years ago and they are much better than the ECAE that I was using prior.
Posts: 2675 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009
Tested voltage while cranking and it went from 11.66 at the battery to 10.38 at the starter.
The battery was wired on the car years ago with standard 2 AWG battery cable, so I'm going to re-wire with 1/0 fine strand welding cable to help, but that being said, I still don't think the starter is working correctly.
I put my spare on and it cranks great! I'll order a new drive/clutch.
Thanks again for the feedback!
David Deming 1974 Chevy Nova Custom Hatchback Horsepower Innovations E85 Carb
Posts: 338 | Location: Nampa, ID | Registered: October 25, 2006
Originally posted by David_D.: Tested voltage while cranking and it went from 11.66 at the battery to 10.38 at the starter.
The battery was wired on the car years ago with standard 2 AWG battery cable, so I'm going to re-wire with 1/0 fine strand welding cable to help, but that being said, I still don't think the starter is working correctly.
I put my spare on and it cranks great! I'll order a new drive/clutch.
Thanks again for the feedback!
10.38v is good, large cable won't hurt but won't fix the problem, your starter has issues, it's not the battery or wiring.
Not the wiring as you were able to verify, good work. There is nothing wrong with 2 ga cable to starter for sbc. I (and others) use same for 14-1 sbc as well. I suggest not replacing this cable and instead purchase a complete new starter from HOP. You’ll be impressed with how much faster his starters crank (higher rated hp than your present starter) on 12v system you presently have. Best upgrade for the money imho.
Posts: 2675 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009
Starter drive. You said it yourself, you have had this starter for years which I take it for being an old starter, it works fine with 2 other starters tried. Don't waste you time changing the cable. Replace the drive or buy a new starter
Posts: 2543 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010
Buy a new Tilton or HOP starter and while you’re at it a spare drive and solenoid, both of which are in my trailer along with a spare starter. When you travel hundreds of miles to race, you better have spares of most everything. If all you do is race at your local duck pond, spares probably aren’t needed, you’ll go home and order what you need. I’ll bet I have near $20k worth of spare parts in my trailer, not including my 2 spare engines, that I hope I never need on race day. Just bought a $200 throttle stop solenoid for a back up.This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000
I just love when someone says a starter works fine on the bench...Bench testing a starter for anything other than to see if it spins is pointless. I have a starter that works perfectly when bench tested....but put it in a car and start it, different story. Starter will crank about a half turn then stop. Crank about half turn then stop.....then put it on the bench again and it works fine....Only way to test a starter is under load, in the car....Sucks if it's hard to get to but is what it is......
It's getting rebuilt by the manufacturer and will be kept as a spare....
Mark Goulette Owner/Driver of the Livin' The Dream Racing dragster www.livinthedreamracing.com "Speed kills but it's better than going slow!" Authorized Amsoil Retailer
Posts: 1539 | Location: Back home in Alaska! | Registered: February 13, 2011
