|
|
Go ![]() | New ![]() | Find ![]() | Notify ![]() | Tools ![]() | Reply ![]() | |
| DRR Pro |
You ever try to take that out? When my car dead hooks, and doesn't do that its way quicker overall. My wheel speed looks like a nice smooth rainbow. When everything is right I can lay 2 or 3 runs over each other and they are identical. Mines 2 oe 3 slower on 60 ft when I get that hump. | |||
|
| DRR Sportsman |
Do the slower runs typically happen when the car is warmer/more heat soaked, or when you are hot lapping it? | |||
|
| DRR Sportsman |
Car is always at the same exact temp - trans, water, etc. I heat soak it first startup to 195* to ensure the water is out of the oil, drain it, and catch can stays water free the entire day. Maybe a tsp of oil. I did change the crank trigger and cable to - grounding the cable inside the grid as that is something I did not originally do. I also had a very good conversation with Peter Biondo over the weekend when he called to discuss various items. In the nutshell he feels the car is tripping the beams with the wheels sometimes and other times the stripe taker. His transam is built similar. Also the car is way to consistent up front and at 330 to be gaining and loosing that much ET/MPH. The only odd thing is the rpms difference otherwise I would have been looking here to start with. I have the track getting me some measurements to verify the beams at the end. Which most are around 5.5inches. I may also rig up a camera and scale system to see where my front shocks are at the end of the strip to very stripe taker and beam measurements. I did also rephase the rotor, which was not off much but did require a little adjustment because I used to run more launch retard. But again can not see what being the issue. I will be at $20k event this weekend at same track as prior anomalies, so we will see. Appreciate the suggestions and will let you know. Hopefully with big check as verification. | |||
|
| DRR S/Pro |
What’s the difference in rpm between the two graphs at 1 second into the run of this pic? Consider just removing the stripe taker and leave the front wheels break the beams…. most consistent if front bodywork is taller than beams. | |||
|
| DRR Pro |
I had to remove the factory air dam under my front bumper. I'd stab the brakes and be .02 under and a couple of MPH off when I know I killed at least 5. Cost me $10K at Beech Bend.....that's my story and I'm sticking to it. Everything was rolling my way that day. "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375 | |||
|
| DRR Pro |
I rip the throttle instead of using the brakes! I have a 2nd Gen Camaro & it has approximately 31" of beak/bill. While I did have a stripe taker & used it/not used it very well. It was an added advantage when used properly or maybe it was luck. 2BKING ![]() 1980 Camaro Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before! 3100 lbs. Pump Gas 436 | |||
|
| DRR Sportsman |
That is the million dollar question. That is what I am trying to figure out. Everything leans to a timing retard or change. Yet the 330ft is nearly dead on... I am loaded up and heading to a 20k event this weekend. I will keep you posted on if things improve, stay the same, etc. Same track. Should also address that I can not simply take the stripe taker or spoiler off. The front of the car is only 9inches off the ground and part of the spoiler is molded into the "bumper". The soiler itself is only 3inches off the ground. My stripe taker expends that to the tip of the car. In theory the stripe taker always should hit the beam....again in theory whether on the brakes for the gas. peter has the same problem with his trans am, but they can not run stripe taker. Not running a stripe taker cost me 10k 15years ago. Since I have always had one. Just recently is started showing in the MPH - hence the concern.This message has been edited. Last edited by: ski_dwn_it, | |||
|
DRR Top Comp![]() |
My opinion for what it is worth. Yes the front bumper could be a small part at finish line but I would not think THAT much. Can not see it making 4 MPH difference so that makes me think electrical or mechanical. So we look at data logger. Your driveshaft looks same on those two runs but your engine RPM is higher especially at stall and before gear change. That makes me think stall converter. Driveshaft RPM basically is your MPH and that appears to be real close? Mathematical, if the driveshaft RPM is X at finish line and tire growth is same or very close the finish line MPH should be the same. Right after release of transbrake looks like driveshaft (tire) RPM spikes up pretty high and drops back too much. Maybe some tire spin or lots of tire wrap up maybe too low air pressure. But after that it is same after the spike. So that makes me wonder. This may be reaching but was the differences in SAME lane? We used to have a local track where MPH was about 5 MPH faster than any other tracks (both lanes)around but also the ET difference between Right and Left lane was significant and you had to dial for what lane you had or be sure to dump. Does anyone else at that same track have similar problems? I have seen MPH, ET and reaction times different from left lane and right lanes. Even still 4 MPH is a lot and I am assuming you are having problems in both lanes. https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/ "Dunning-Kruger Effect" -a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge. Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue. 4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion | |||
|
| DRR Pro |
Ripping the throttle in my car does nearly nothing to the ET, unless I start at about 450 feet. Squeezing the brake pedal without lifting on the throttle has always been the best method, when I can make myself do it. My low power junk isn't making ET at the finish line, it's just riding. "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375 | |||
|
| DRR Sportsman |
Ok problem solved. Went to money race this weekend and first run 116mph in right lane where problem was last time there. Went to left lane and car went 120mph. Came back and added 1 inch to stripe taker. Went back to right lane. Car went 120mph. Car was unreal all weekend long. Went to 5th round of 20k and lost a really close race. Sunday took both entries to 4th round and car never moved lane to lane, run over run more than .008sec. I lost two races by less than .002sec. bad when you loose with a 11pack, and 7pack. Sometimes it just isn't your day. So in the nutshell the car was missing the beam by less than 1 inch. Why the rpm looks different on that one trace is beyond me. That is what threw me for a loop. Guess I have a backup crank trigger and second run crank trigger cable should I ever need one to plug in quick. Thanks everyone for the help. | |||
|
DRR S/Pro![]() |
So your car was tripping the 594' beam with the stripe taker but not the finish line beam? And this has played out the same way at multiple tracks? I'm skeptical that it's been solved, but glad your car was great this weekend! Tony Leonard | |||
|
| DRR Sportsman |
Yes sir. Only change was the 1" to the stripe taker. I have had it happen at other tracks. I have seen it in the 330ft vary also run to run where other parts of the track are dead on (even end ET within few thousands). The staff there this weekend said they set the height to 5.125" - qualified with as best as we can. Things like dips in the track and other factors obviously can effect things. I originally made the stripe taker to be at the same height as the spoiler that is behind it, further back from the tip of the nose. The tip of the bumper is only 8inches off the ground. The spoiler was 3.5inches from the ground. So its very conceivable that under power the car is lifted more than 2inches missing the beams. And when off the gas, or on the brakes it is tripping the beams 28" sooner(distance from tip/front of stripe taker to tire). I went arounds asking and measuring dragsters fronts and they were all 2.5-3" off the ground. So I put mine at 2.75" - made many passes this weekend in right lane and it never didn't trip it or not have 120.XXMPH. Prior the 330ft on all the runs even the 116 were within few thousands. That was the big tell when I spoke to Biondo despite the rpm difference in the graphs - which I still can not explain. The 330ft were all again within a few thousands as were the 60ft suggesting the car is making the same power run to run. If the timing were retarded like I had originally thought it would be further off. Biondo said his trans am does the exact same thing when on the brakes - they just are not allowed stripe takers. Here is the other thing that ties: Using the standard 66-foot speed trap: 116 MPH = 66 ft in 0.3879 sec 120 MPH = 66 ft in 0.3750 sec Difference = 0.01293 sec At an average speed of about 118 MPH (≈173 ft/sec), the car travels: 173 ft/sec × 0.01293 sec ≈ 2.24 feet (26.9 inches) So the answer is: A change of about 2.2 feet (27 inches) in where the timing system "sees" the car would be required to make 116 MPH look like 120 MPH. | |||
|
| DRR Pro |
FYI, you aren't legal at 2.75" according to NHRA. I bring this up because someone protested my stripe taker & tech checked me out; I was legal. 2BKING ![]() 1980 Camaro Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before! 3100 lbs. Pump Gas 436 | |||
|
| DRR Sportsman |
yes - cars are also supposed to have a diaper and million other safety things that many do not have. | |||
|
| DRR Pro |
I make sure my car is equipped correctly. Two wrongs or "many do not" doesn't make it right. 1980 Camaro Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before! 3100 lbs. Pump Gas 436 | |||
|
DRR S/Pro![]() |
It seems odd that the stripe taker would always hit the 594' beam but sometimes miss the 660' beam, assuming that the beams are at exactly the same height. The attitude of the car wouldn't be changing at that point in the run if it was WOT all the way. But the math does check out to 4 MPH at 28", as you said. It would be an amazing coincidence if some other performance difference worked out exactly the same as the difference between the stripe taker and the tire. Tony Leonard | |||
|
| DRR Sportsman |
My guess is track surface is not perfect the whole way allowing for variation between the measurements. There may even be a sweet spot if I drove towards the center or the edge that would work without the taker...Like I said the left side of this track always was fine. | |||
|
DRR S/Pro![]() |
Is there a bump right down at the finish line? Of course that would only be one track though. | |||
|
| DRR Sportsman |
I have not been down track on foot. But I have had at at PGH at both MPH and 330ft. These cars are just at a bad height, motors are set back in them and they carry the front really high. They also handle very well with their low stance - so you can jam the brakes on safety and dip the nose pretty low. I have raced 60-70s cars and a few of them I would not even come close to being aggressive on the top end in. | |||
|
| Powered by Social Strata | Page 1 2 |
| Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
|

