Does anyone know which battery is a direct replacement in 16 volt for the optima red top trying to find something close in deminsions that will fit in the nose of my 08 Racetech in 16 volt

take your pick, one or two 16V Go Lithium will fit.

Two side by side = 9" long x 6 3/8" wide x 7" tall

$1,749 with charger

thats kind what i was thinking

a friend built me a mockup who clearly has too much time on his hands





The photos above are of Danny Nelson's car, I like the entire setup from the carbon fiber plate to cable/terminal covers and hold down and he is a Go Lithium dealer.

Don't know which Red Top you have.

Redtop 34

6.88 Wide
10.06 Long
7.88 High

Redtop 25

6.75 Wide
9.38 Long
7.69 High

XS Power D-1600

6.46 Wide
10.24 Long
7.20 High

Ed and I agree to disagree on the Lithiums. At least in their current state. I will stick with what has worked for me. Not saying I would never change but this D-1600 is eight years old. The car will get a new one the end of this season.

Good luck on whatever you decide!

Vern,

I giving up, I'm tired of the 12 volt options for my car. When I go to 16 volts, it will be lithium.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
Vern,

I giving up, I'm tired of the 12 volt options for my car. When I go to 16 volts, it will be lithium.

Best Battery

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
Vern,

I giving up, I'm tired of the 12 volt options for my car. When I go to 16 volts, it will be lithium.

Ed, if you decide to go with Go Lithium my personal experience is that you will need 2 batteries. For the Lebanon Divisional I put in 1 Go Lithium and had to turn the fuel pump and fan off to get it to start good. That was with an alternator also. Had a friend that normally uses 1 in Top Dragster(gets pushed up and back) put in 2 for the 10k's at Esta and couldn't believe the difference in cranking power.

Ken, that's my plan. I spoke to several racers at Indy including Danny Nelson who drives his top dragster the lanes and all said 2 batteries is a must. I'll also continue to run an alternator.

After years of bad mouthing everyone who runs 16 volt and saying 12 volt is all you need now he goes to 16 volt........ Wow.

From my experience with batteries I had the 12 volt Optima Red top and had good life and results from it. I think I got 5 years out of it before I retired it to run my trailer jack. Was still working great just felt it was time. I run alternator with both.

Then I went to 16 volt XSPower and it has been pretty good. Certainly not perfect. I think the 16 volt turns over motor faster but does not last as long. I had a problem last year and car did not want to start, it was spinning over and but just did not want to fire off. Had my barrel valve / idle mixture a little off. The 16 volt battery went dead. Even though I think it still had 15 ? Volts? It did not want to turn over motor.

The battery has XXX amount of power and the 16 volt dumps it faster. If you run an Mechanical injection it may help you to spin it over faster. But no huge advantage.

If weight is an issue the the Lithium batteries will save you a bunch of weight and I think the GoLithium is probably best. I do not think some of the cheaper ones are as safe as they should be.

To me bottom line is if you have problems starting then you need to resolve those no matter what battery you run. 16 volt will not cure those problems and I think 16 volt has less reserve. 6 of 1, half dozen of the other.

Not sure what battery you need to replace your current one. I can tell you that 16v is the way to go IMO. Have one in my car with 14:1 compression and 4.75 stroke and it spins like the plugs are out of it. Have cranked car a lot during initial tuning of fuel system(maybe dozen times) while having some issue with a experimental fuel system. Never hesitated once. Now only electric accessory's I have are instruments ,delay box and one small fan for the transmission. Add in that battery is about15 feet from starter. Having a mag adds more importance to cranking speed. Only way to go.

IMO lithium is lot of many that can better be used else where. Especially if battery on front of car for better weight distribution. Plus I would rather spend money to cut weight else where that could be more advantageous . That's just my thoughts on it.

for our clueless club racer...I didn't bad mouth 16 volt batteries, I stated the truth...they fail without notice. Further, I don't need a 16 volt battery, I want to try a 16 volt battery as I'm just not happy with the effort it takes to start my car which as built does not have provisions for a full size 12 or 16 volt battery.

For those of us with '08-'14 Undercover cars with the battery(s) under the nose, we have few options and I've tried them all. So to try 16 volts, dictates a swap to a Lithium battery(s) which also requires a new hold down as well possibly finding a way to add 40 pounds of weight in the nose due to the weight reduction.

Based on comments here, these batteries do not like cold temps and we know that lithium batteries have a reputation for being unstable and resulting in a fire including in race cars, one of which I witnessed myself. Oh well my race car insurance with Laris is paid and I could quickly swap back to dual 12 volts if need be.

Last, we won a divisional championship, came within a few rounds of winning another in back to back seasons, won and runnered up national events and finished 4th in the country all with 12 volt batteries so they have gotten the job done.

That said, I will finish this season with my current batteries and IF a pair of Go Lithium 16 volt batteries will fit between my frame rails in the nose, I'll try them, if not I'll stay with what I have.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,

Ed I double enter quite often an my motor is 16.75 comp...I too have fought this problem but cured it with a 139 Big Dawg an the 3121 Braille battery’s

I've been running Mark Payne's Ultimate Big Dawg 139 tooth starter since last season. Previously ran the 3121 batteries and didn't feel they were any better than what they replaced. Initially the starter seemed to spin quicker but the laboring to start especially the first start of the day is still there and I've killed/replaced the starter drive assembly once already despite no kickbacks.

I too have went to the 16V Go lithiums...using them since beginning of the year as well as Hunter Patton has as well. Good results so far and turns my blower motor over without struggle with 168 HOP.

Have the 139 HOP on my yellow American all aluminium SR20 632...WOW it turns over like no other car I have ever owned!

good to hear. Interested to hear how they do at the million in colder temps.

I won't know until Thursday if they fit in the nose of my car.

I went to the 139 tooth deal about 9 years ago and changed out my Tilton Super Starter for the Powermaster about 6 years ago. HUGE improvement and much more durable. I later changed to 16 volt system. The 16 volt deal does spin it over faster but does not have as much reserve power and can run down. Understand the 16 volt Lithium batteries have even less reserve so they all run two of them. Not sure if I will do it on my new Altered, may go back to 12 volt system.

I will definitely run the 139 tooth set up from now on. It is that much better and stronger.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
Ken, that's my plan. I spoke to several racers at Indy including Danny Nelson who drives his top dragster the lanes and all said 2 batteries is a must. I'll also continue to run an alternator.

It’s a good idea but not a must, dad use to run sc and bracket with one battery and no alternator , no issues, but it does spin way better with 2

We have run the XS Power S1600 battery in the nose of our RaceTech cars.